Racpat RTW 2015-2017 - CycleBlaze

Racpat RTW 2015-2017

20 years after our first "big trip" we attempt to ride around the world again.

By Rachel and Patrick Hugens
41,146 km (25,552 miles) over 936 days between Mar. 24, 2015 and Oct. 14, 2017


Introduction heart 10
Preparations heart 2
Pak List: RTW 2015 heart 3
Medical kit 2015 heart 2
Push-Pull: we have done this before, right......? heart 5
Almost real now: final preparations and going-away party heart 3

Netherlands and Belgium: Country #1 and #2

Netherlands and Belgium Map heart 3
A week in Ossendrecht: travel and bike assembly heart 12
Family visit and sightseeing heart 13
Week 1: So it begins - to Hilvarenbeek heart 3
To Eindhoven: short day heart 3
To Maastricht: cycling along the canal heart 6
To Monschau: terrible weather heart 6

Germany: Country #3

Germany Map heart 2
To Winnerath: almost more hills than we can handle (yet) heart 3
To Koblenz: following rivers heart 10
Week 2: To Limburg and beyond: following the Lahn River heart 11
To Duttendorf / Giessen: a change of plan. heart 6
To Homberg: short day - part rest day heart 11
To Kirchheim: another short day - the other half of our restday heart 3
To Eisenach: a couple of hills and following the Wera River heart 6
Rest day in Eisenach heart 4
To Weimar: Thuringer Stadtekette route - or bust heart 9
Week 3: To Steinsdorf: One final hill to end the day heart 2
To Rabenstein: trying to avoid the hills of the Ertz-gebirge heart 7
To Sorgau: ready for a break heart 3
Two Rest days: Sorgau and Steinbach heart 3
another restday: hike in the "Sachsische Schweiz" heart 1

Czech Republic: Country #4

Czech Republic Map heart 0
to Litomerice: Along the Elbe River into the Czech Republic heart 0
Week 4: into Prague: mostly following the Elbe and Vltava Rivers heart 0
two restdays in Prague: and lots of things to see heart 0
to Kutna Hora: leaving Prague heart 3
to Borova: climbing some hills heart 0
to Brno: across the Moravia Highlands heart 3
restday in Brno heart 0
Week 5: to Hodonin: Petr shows us the way through the Czech country side heart 2

Slovakia: Country #5

Slovakia Map heart 0
to Trnava: headwinds heart 0
to Komarno: we can still ride 100k under these conditions heart 0

Hungary: Country #6

Hungary Map heart 0
to Domos: dodging snails on the Danube River biketrail heart 2
to Budapest: riding on an island in the Danube heart 1
two restdays in Budapest: cathedrals, palaces and avenues heart 4
Week 6: to Jaszjakohalma: leaving a big city... heart 0
to Tiszafured: getting caught in a thunderstorm on the Hungarian puszta heart 3
to Hajduszoboszlo heart 6

Romania: Country #7

Romania Map heart 0
to Baile Felix: into Romania heart 0
to Stei: taking the back-roads, more kilometers but rewarding heart 5
to Brad: this road will never get finished heart 3
to Hunedoara: Short day, tomorrow a rest day heart 1
Week 7: Hunedoara restday: Corvin Castle heart 2
to Otelu Rosu: the day after a rest day is a rainy day heart 3
to Resita: three big hills heart 1
to Sasca Montana: Rural Romania heart 2
to Liubcova: robbed of a downhill heart 1
to Orsova: again along the Danube heart 1

Serbia: Country #8

Serbia Map heart 0
to Negotin: into Serbia and our goodbyes to the Danube heart 0
Week 8: to Zajecar: quick ride to beat the heat heart 0

Bulgaria: Country #9

Bulgaria Map heart 0
to Belogradchik: ups and downs heart 0
Two restdays in Belogradchik: rocks and a fortress heart 4
to Gara Oresec: and a train to Sofia heart 0
to Bansko: by train again heart 0
restday Bansko: walk around old-town Bansko heart 2
Week 9: to Gotse Delchev: easing back into cycling with a long downhill heart 3

Greece: Country #10

Greece Map heart 0
to Lydia: into Greece heart 1
to Mandra Beach: into the Greek delta heart 0
to Krioneri: along the coast heart 0
to Alexandroupoli: and a swim in the Mediteranean heart 2

Turkey: Country #11

Turkey Map to Istanbul heart 1
Turkey Map Istanbul to Posof heart 0
to Kesan: pedaling downhill...... heart 0
to Gelibolu: strong winds beating us up heart 1
Week 10: restday Gallipoli: touring the Anzac battlefields heart 2
to Biga: up and down along the Dardanelles Strait heart 1
to Bandirma heart 0
to Istanbul: mostly by ferry heart 0
R&R in Instanbul: part 1: a couple days of sightseeing: the four main attractions first. heart 6
Week 11: R & R in Istanbul: part 2: not always just about sightseeing heart 6
to Goreme: a night bus to the center of Cappadocia heart 12
to Kayseri: cycling further east heart 5
to Pinarbasi: with views of Mt. Erciyes heart 1
Week 12: to Gurun: Wildflowers and kilometer markers heart 3
to Darende: let's get there by noon! heart 4
to Malatya: but skipped the big hill.... heart 2
to Nemrut Dagi: overnight tour heart 4
to Elazig: and our first warmshowers host in Turkey heart 4
restday Elazig heart 0
Week 13: to Tunceli: hot, hot, hot heart 0
to Erzurum: Serendipity heart 2
restday Erzurum heart 3
to Horasan: nice ride heart 4
to Sarikamis: climbing past obsidian heart 3
to Kars: wildflowers as far as you can see heart 2
visiting Ani: Rest Day heart 4
Week 14: to Cildir Golu: nice to be back in the tent heart 4
to Hanak: our first stay in an ogretmen evi heart 1
to Posof: one big dusty hill heart 1

Georgia: Country #12

Georgia Map heart 0
to Akhaltsikhe: out of Turkey after one more hill heart 2
restday: day trip to Vardzia heart 0
another restday: it is hard to leave a nice place like "Hotel Tourist" heart 0
to Bojormi: cycling in Georgia heart 1
Week 15: to Gori: Happy 20th Wedding Anniversary heart 1
to Tbilisi: the end of Stage 1 heart 6
couple of days in Tbilisi: recovering and boxing the bikes heart 4
Week 16: four-day tour to Svaneti region: Its a long ways to Ushguli..... heart 2
four more days in Tbilisi: and a day-trip to Kazbegi heart 3
Europe and Eurasia route: the places we slept heart 0

Kenya: Country #13

AFRICA MAP heart 1
Week 17: Travel to Kenya: Cars stop in crosswalks heart 3
Three days to the Masai Mara: On safari: simba, simba, simba! heart 38
To Gitutha: Short day to get us moving again heart 12
Week 18: to Lake Naivasha: Camping near the hippos heart 8
Hells Gate National Park: on a bike safari heart 9
To Lake Elementaita: A banda for us tonight heart 2
To Nakuru: short day, get to town early, arrange safari heart 1
Lake Nakuru National Park: Not what it used to be heart 7
to Lake Baringo: crossing the equator heart 8
restday at Roberts Camp: hanging out with Kenyan elite runners heart 8
Week 19: to Karbanet: up the hill heart 5
to Iten: a little cheating up the hill and a fancy resort for us heart 5
to Eldoret: the other half of our restday heart 3
to Kitale: highlands, cornfields and saturday markets heart 9
to Suam, Uganda: Gospel and red mud heart 5

Uganda: Country #14

to Kapkwata ranger station: hardest 43k's ever heart 7
to Kapchorwa: need to take a ride heart 6
Week 20: to Sipi Falls: back on the asphalt heart 8
restday at Sipi Falls: and a short but strenuous hike heart 11
to Mbale: and then there were three cyclists heart 7
to Namwiwa: off the pavement again heart 13
to Kamuli: it's too quiet... heart 11
to Kayunga: need bike shop and medic heart 3
to Wobulenzi: more one-lane dirt roads heart 6
Week 21: to Mityana: one more day of dust heart 8
to Mubende: pavement again! heart 6
to Keyenjojo: always another hill heart 4
To Fort Portal: Happy birthday Rachel! heart 8
rest day Fort Portal: good food and rest heart 3
To Kasese: not as easy as the elevation graph made us believe heart 6
To Katunguru: Crossing the equator heart 7
Week 22: Queen Elizabeth National Park: Safari and boat ride heart 10
to Ishaka: back up to tea country heart 9
To Ntungamo: road construction heart 3
To Kabale: three big climbs heart 6
restday: tour to Lake Bunyonyi heart 2
to Kisoro: "a muzungu, give me money" heart 4

Rwanda: Country #15

To Ruhengeri: border crossing into Rwanda heart 5
Week 23: To Gisenyi: down to Lake Kivu heart 11
rest day Gisenyi: Blessington Motel heart 5
to Cyimbiri Guesthouse: Congo Nile Trail, Day one: not so easy heart 4
To Bumba: Congo Nile Trail, Day two: Hardest 42k's ever heart 9
to Kibuye: the rains have started heart 2
Bethany Hotel in Kibuye: Two days of R&R heart 3
Week 24: to Gitarama then on to Kigali: when two rest days are not enough heart 2
Kigali: rest day: Impressions of Rwanda heart 2
Kigali: rest day: Genocide Memorial heart 2
to Kayonza: on the move again heart 2
To Rusumo Falls: Falls Guesthouse: last day in Rwanda heart 4

Tanzania: Country #16

to Muzani: into Tanzania heart 1
To Nyakanazi: hot, dry and burning heart 1
Week 25: To Kigoma: the road not pedalled heart 1
six days in Kigoma: waiting for the Liemba to sail heart 1
rest days in Kigoma: Still waiting for the Liemba to sail heart 1
Week 26: down lake Tanganyika: first day on the Liemba heart 1
Lake Tanganyika: Second day on the Liemba heart 1
Third day on the Liemba: Arrival in Kasanga and trucking to Sumbawanga heart 1
To Mbeya: Bus ride and a restday heart 1
To Tukuyu: Its a bike trip again! heart 1

Malawi: Country #17

To Karonga: down to Lake Malawi heart 1
Week 27: To Chitimba: hot, hot, hot and Baobab Trees heart 2
Hakuna Matata: restday in Chitimba heart 1
To Rumphi: early start for a big climb heart 3
To Mzuzu: the wind is not our friend today heart 2
To Nhkata Bay: Back down to Lake Malawi heart 1
Rest day at the Butterfly Space: buying souvenirs..... heart 2
To Chintheche: London Lodge on the beach heart 1
Week 28: To Ngala: another beautiful beach heart 1
To Nkhotakota: one more beach heart 1
To Salima: Hiya, hiya, hiya, hiya, hiya........ give me money! heart 1
To Lilongwe: Up, up and away from Lake Malawi heart 1

Zambia: Country #18

Week 29: South Luangwa National Park: Two days safari and transfer to Lusaka heart 1
Lusaka to Kafue: on the road again heart 5
To Mazabuka: the sweetest town in Zambia heart 7
To Monze: long flat roads. heart 6
Week 30: To Choma: with a little help from the wind heart 5
to Kalomo: More bush lands heart 7
To Livingstone: record day and our first flat tire heart 11
Victoria Falls: Zambia side heart 8

Zimbabwe: Country #19

Victoria Falls: Zimbabwe side heart 1
To Bulawayo: on the overnight train heart 6
Week 31: restday in Bulawayo: visiting Mtshabezi Mission heart 2
restday in Bulawayo: cycling Matopos NP heart 1
Bulawayo to Plumtree: Nice tailwind heart 1

Botswana: Country #20

To Francistown: day from hell heart 2
To Kuminda Farm: short day to get going again heart 3
To Nata Lodge: Thank you wind!!!!! heart 8
Week 32: to Nata: Northgate lodge, a restday heart 7
to Planet Baobab - Gweta: Thank you wind!! heart 36
to Motopi: "rescued" by missionaries heart 10
to Maun: let's just get there heart 8
Okavango Delta: scenic flight heart 13
Moremi Game Reserve: on safari in the Okavanga Delta heart 14
to Sehithwa: 107F is too hot! heart 9
Week 33: To El-Fari Campground: somewhere in the Kalahari a cold beer is waiting for us heart 12
To Ghanzi: When did 68k become a short day?.... heart 9
to Tsootsha: onto the Kalahari highway heart 13

Namibia: Country #21

To Buitenpos: into Namibia heart 6
to Gobabis: a great "Warmshowers" reception heart 1
Week 34: two nights at the Labuschagne farm: "Warmshowers" hospitality heart 1
to Omitara: camping at "Kalahari Padstall" heart 1
to Windhoek airport: Bye bye flat road, Hills again! heart 3
Day 1: To Windhoek and start of self catered drive: warning for the purists: we rent a car for the next 12 days... heart 3
Day 2: Windhoek to Etosha, Namutoni Camp: first driving day heart 11
Day 3: Full day gamedrive in Etosha: watering holes galore heart 17
Day 4: Etosha to Damaraland: Twijfelfontein and lots of rocks. heart 13
Day 5: To Swakopmund: Along the Skeleton Coast to a german town heart 16
Week 35: Day 6: day off in Swakopmund: into the Namib desert to see the Welwitshia Mirabilis heart 11
Day 7: Namib Naukluft National Park: the most awesome campsite on Thanksgiving Day heart 13
Day 8: Sesriem: Sossusvlei sand dunes heart 13
Day 9: To Namtib Desert Lodge: Sunrise at Sossusvlei heart 14
Day 10: To Canon roadhouse: More Namibian desert heart 10
Day 11: Fish River Canyon: day trip to the Fish River Canyon viewpoints and Ai-Ais heart 11
Day 12: To Keetmanshoop: we lose the diesel engine....... heart 8
Week 36: To Noordoewer: Riding a big rig while listening to Don Williams... heart 3

South Africa: Country #22

To Steinkopf: long straight roads into South Africa, 10,000km achieved heart 8
To Springbok: getting hilly again heart 8
To Kamieskroon: finally meeting other cyclists on the road heart 10
To Garies: we see the ocean fog, feeling its cooling effect heart 12
To Nuwerus: fog and drizzle.....yeah! heart 7
To Strandfontein: to the ocean heart 0
Week 37: To Lambert's Bay: riding the "private" road along the railroad heart 1
To Elands Bay: short ride after a restday heart 1
To Veldrif: last of the dirt roads heart 1
To Langebaan: headwind and crazy drivers heart 1
To Yzerfontein: Tablemountain on the horizon, one more day to Capetown! heart 1
To Tableview: Riding towards a beautiful city heart 4
Week 38: days in Capetown: visiting "the Waterfront" three times in three days heart 4
Reflections of Africa: A few People we met along the way heart 39
Reflections of Africa: Then and now heart 1
To Noordhoek: Day one: Riding Chapmans Peak Drive with Amanda Kruger heart 2
To Simonstown: Day Two: Riding to Cape of Good Hope heart 3
Week 39: Back to Tableview: Day Three: Completing the loop heart 0
Reflections of Africa: The Children 2015 heart 1
Reflections of Africa: 1994 Children heart 0
Capetown days between Christmas and New Years: City and Table Mountain heart 0
Capetown: getting bikes ready for the next stage heart 0
Week 40: Last days in Capetown: leaving the southern hemisphere heart 2

India: Country #23

INDIA MAP heart 0
KERALA heart 0
Fort Kochi: Happy New Year! heart 0
Fort Kochi: taking care of business heart 0
Fort Kochi: Backwater tour of Kerala heart 0
Two more days in Kochi: sightseeing heart 0
Week 41: To Thrissur: first along the coast, then turning inland towards the mountains. heart 3
To Lakkidi: finding the small roads heart 0
To Mannarkkad: 37kms rewarded with our first beer in India heart 0
TAMIL NADU heart 0
To Mettupalayam: climbing into the Nilgiri mountains heart 1
To Ooty: No train for you! heart 0
Restday in Ooty: almost lost our jackets heart 0
To Sulthan Bathery: beautiful tea plantations heart 1
Week 42: To Tholpetty: Through foggy coffee plantations heart 0
restday in Tholpetty: bust safari in Wayanad Wildlife sanctuary heart 0
To Madikeri: coffee and more coffee heart 0
To Somwarpet: coffee anyone? heart 1
to Belur: another fine ride heart 1
Belur restday: Hoysala temples heart 1
To Shimoga: "Take it easy" heart 1
Week 43: To Davangere: everyday life in India heart 1
To Kotturu: drawing a crowd heart 1
to Hampi: arrived in backpacker-ville heart 1
Hampi: two restdays: Hampi world heritage area heart 1
Hampi: Rest Day, around town heart 1
to Koppal: back to the "real" India heart 0
to Gadag: Dry Corn fields heart 1
Week 44: to Hubli: great day for interacting with people heart 1
to Yellapur: watching people work heart 1
to Karwar: Caution dangerous curves ahead heart 0
GOA heart 0
to Palolem: Goa: What a difference a state makes heart 1
restday in Palolem: Goa beach town heart 1
To Colva Beach: a change of plans heart 0
to Panjim: two hills to the city heart 1
Week 45: Panjim restday: street scenes heart 1
Ashvem Beach: 30k's and a beer before noon heart 1
To Kalavi Beach: a new state and plenty of hills heart 1
to Malvan: we "burn a sickday" heart 1
to Devgad: ups and downs along the Konkan Coast heart 1
to Rajapur: Off the beaten track heart 1
Week 46: to Ratnagiri: more hills, back to the coast heart 1
To Ganatipule: market day at an Indian beach town heart 1
To Guhagar: hills and fishing boats heart 1
to Harnai: beach fish market heart 2
to Harihareshwar: really really rough roads heart 0
to Murud: One more ferry heart 0
to Alibag: Last day cycling along the coast heart 1
Week 47: Mumbai: day trip to a very large city heart 2
To Lonavala: away from the coast into the Western Ghats heart 0
To Khondapuri: heavy traffic but smooth roads heart 0
To Ahmednagar: "just get there" heart 0
To Paithan: this is bicycle touring again heart 0
To Aurangabad: a long flat hill heart 0
to Ellora: sweet short ride and half a rest day heart 0
Week 48: Ellora Caves: Calling them "caves" just isn't right heart 0
To Faradpur: "Where are you from?" heart 0
Ajanta Caves: About 2000 years old and amazing! heart 0
To Jalgaon: not everything is pretty in India heart 0
To Burhanpur: Bananas everywhere heart 0
To Khandwa: treat of a luxury hotel heart 0
To Khargone: nice ride heart 0
Week 49: To Mandu: Baobab trees! heart 0
Restday Mandu: Town with no tuk tuks heart 0
To Dhar: Road construction heart 0
To Ratlam: "Freedom fighters and journalists", the sign is still there! heart 0
to Banswara: three milestones in one day heart 0
not quite to Salumbar: green trees, corn and wheat heart 0
To Udaipur: ready for some rest days heart 0
Week 50: Rest day Udaipur: post office, shopping and eating heart 0
Rest day Udaipur: City Palace heart 0
To Ranakpur: Watch out for the salmon heart 0
Ranakpur Jain Temple: perfection carved in marble heart 0
To Pali: Peacocks and potato vada heart 0
To Beawar: desert and turbans heart 0
To Pushkar: Turbans on Patrick's birthday heart 0
Week 51: restday Pushkar: hippies and cow poo everywhere heart 0
To Ajmer: short day and meat! heart 0
To Tordi: Haystacks in a dry countryside heart 0
To Jaipur: from the quiet countyside to the busy city heart 0
day one in Jaipur: Hawa Mahal & Jantar Mantar heart 0
day two in Jaipur: Amber Fort solo heart 0
day three in Jaipur: pink city bazaar heart 0
Week 52: To Dausa: Change of plans heart 0
Dausa: Keeping our heads down for Holi: One year on the road heart 0
To Bharatpur: cow patties, flies and smokestacks heart 0
to Fatehpur Sikri: short day to an ancient city heart 0
to Agra: first glimpse of Taj Mahal heart 0
Taj Mahal: Taj Mahal and Agra Fort heart 0
Agra: Catching the night train heart 0
Week 53: To Varanasi: Arriving in Varanasi heart 0
Varanasi: Ghats, temples and a Ganges sunset cruise heart 0
Varanasi: sunrise on the Ganges heart 0
To Azamgargh: heading north for the mountains heart 0
To Gorakhpur: Ready to get to another country heart 0

Nepal: Country #24

NEPAL MAP heart 0
To Bhairawaha: Into Nepal heart 0
To Kawasoti: we had forgotten what hills were like heart 0
Week 54: to Sauraha: ready for a restday heart 0
Chitwan National Park: rhinos but no tiger heart 0
to Hetauda: get us out of this bad air! heart 0
to Daman: the mother of all hills! Almost 2000 meters climbing. heart 0
to Kathmandu: hiking up and down the mountain heart 0
Kathmandu restdays: seeing the sights around Thamel heart 0
Week 55: Visit to Bhaktapur: Bisket Jatra and ladies in red heart 0
To Battar: Terraced hills heart 0
To Manakamana: down the Prithivi Highway heart 0
To Bandipur: actually, we only cycled to the turn-off...... heart 0
to Pokhara: the promise of beer and pizza got us here heart 0
Two days in Pokhara: another small world connection heart 0
Week 56: To Waling: South along the beautiful Siddhartha Highway heart 0
To Tansen: One more day in the mountains, one more big climb heart 0
To Lumbini: Leaving the mountains, for now heart 0
Restday in Lumbini: at the birthplace of Buddha heart 0
To Chanauta: let's just get down the road before it gets too hot heart 0
To Lamahi: Today was a struggle heart 0
Week 57: To Kohalpur: Long, hot and smokey ride heart 0
To Thakurdwara: smokey skies and hot heart 0
Bardia National Park: One more chance to see a tiger heart 0
To Atariya: yes, same same: hot and smokey heart 3

India: Himalaya

Uttarakhand heart 0
To Khatima: Back into India, are you ready for some honking? heart 0
To Rudrapur: Getting reacquainted with Indian traffic.... heart 0
Week 58: To Kashipur: sick and tired of the honking heart 0
To Najibabad: first rain in a long time heart 0
To Rishikesh: Following the Ganges Canal heart 0
Three days in Rishikesh: R&R with a view heart 0
To Dehradun: on the move again heart 0
Himachal Pradesh heart 0
Week 59: To Nahan - 900m: Leaving the lowlands heart 0
to Kumarhatti - 1600m: up into clean air and pine forests heart 0
to Shimla - 2100m: gaining altitude and the "inner line permit" heart 0
two days in Shimla: enjoying the cool and getting ready for Kinnaur and Spiti heart 0
to Narkanda - 2630m: First glimpses of big mountains on the horizon heart 0
to Rampur -1015m: One more time down to the heat heart 0
Week 60: to Sarahan - 2200m: cycle to Jeori, then a taxi to see the Shri Bhima Kali Ji temple heart 0
to Kalpa - 2770m: beautiful Kinnaur heart 0
Kalpa restday: enjoying just being there heart 0
to Pooh - 2811m: rough roads make for tough going heart 0
to Nako - 3640m: most spectacular road ever heart 0
to Tabo - 3300m: watch out for landslides heart 0
restday Tabo: a good day for a restday heart 0
Week 61: To Kaza - 3680m: we feel the altitude heart 0
two restdays in Kaza: "warmshowers" hospitality heart 0
to Losar - 4100m: up the Spiti Valley heart 0
to Batal - 3900m: over Kunzum La (4590m) heart 3
to wild camp Chandra River - 3600m: we love our waterproof socks! heart 3
to Sissu - 3100m: Finished the Spiti Loop, turning towards Leh heart 2
Week 62: to Keylong - 3145m: fertile Lahaul, leaving the Chandra River heart 5
two restdays in Keylong turns to three: getting ready for the run to Leh heart 0
to Patsio - 3750m: gaining altitude towards the first big pass on the road to Leh. heart 1
to (upper) Zing Zing Bar - 4300m: gaining another 500 meters heart 1
to Sarchu - 4400m: over Baralacha La (4918m) heart 0
Jammu & Kashmir: entering Ladakh heart 0
Week 63: to Whiskey Nalah - 4785m: Over Nakeela La (4937m) heart 0
to Pang - 4522m: Over Lachulung La (5077m) heart 0
to Tso Kar turn-off - 4650m: Across the Morei Plains heart 0
to Rumtse - 4200m: over Tanglang La (5300m) heart 0
to Thiksey – 3600m: Our reward: downhill to the Indus River heart 0
To Leh - 3500m: Hot showers, Western food and a good bed heart 0
Week 64: Three days in Leh: good food, rest and monasteries heart 0
to Saspol - 3145m: stuggling with two climbs heart 0
to Lamayuru - 3650m: leaving the Indus River, climbing through a moonscape to a gompa heart 0
to Mulbekh - 3300m: two passes: Fotu La (4105m) and Namika La (3827m), plenty of hairpins heart 0
to Kargil - 2900m: from Buddhism to Islam heart 0
to Drass - 3057m: Headwinds along the "Line of Control" heart 0
Week 65: to Sonmarg - 2742m: over Zoji La (3541m) into Kashmir heart 0
to Srinagar - 1626m: last day of cycling in India, probably a good thing for us and Indian drivers...... heart 0
day in Srinagar: mostly trying to get out heart 0
Punjab and Delhi: done biking in India heart 0
To Amritsar: Long taxi ride heart 0
Amritsar: the Golden Temple heart 0
Week 66: Delhi: five last days in India heart 0
India / Nepal route: The places we slept heart 0

Tajikistan: Country #25

CENTRAL ASIA MAP: Tajikistan Kyrgyzstan Kazakhstan China Mongolia heart 0
Dushanbe: flying to Tajikistan and setting up for the next stage heart 0
to Rogun: Tajik hospitality heart 0
to Kysylsu River bridge: Saved from a downpour heart 0
Week 67: wild camp just before "yellow-roof village": No easy kilometers today heart 0
to Tavildara: half a restday to regroup heart 0
up Sagirdasht Pass: wildflowers on our wedding anniversary heart 0
to Kalaikhum: over the pass and down to the Panj River heart 0
to "bus stall campsite": perfect campsite and lots of company heart 0
to Dekh: hot and bumpy heart 0
to roadside restaurant camp: Along the Panj River heart 0
Week 68: To Khorog: limping into town heart 0
two days in Khorog: cyclists galore heart 0
To irrigation ditch camp: Starting our Pamir plateau ascent heart 0
To Jelondy: to a Soviet sanatorium heart 0
To river camp: Berenburg on the Pamir Plateau heart 0
to Alichur: feels like the end of the world heart 0
Week 69: To Murghab: best downhill ever? heart 0
two days in Murghab: what to say about Murghab.... heart 0
to Akbaital River camp: back on the Pamir Highway heart 0
to Muzkol River camp: over the highest pass on the Pamir Hwy. heart 0
to Karakul Lake: No bacon sandwiches in Karakul heart 0
to "dry lakebed" camp: stopped by headwinds heart 0

Kyrgyzstan: Country #26

Week 70: to Sary-Tash: Kyrgyzstan: the 50th country we have cycled in together heart 0
to "Coliseum" campsite: yurts everywhere heart 0
to Taldyk River campsite: Last pass on the Pamir Highway and a thunderstorm heart 0
to Osh: finishing up the Pamir Highway with a long downhill heart 0
Pamir Highway Dushanbe to Osh: Cyclists we met heart 0
three days in Osh: R&R heart 0
Week 71: to Andijan Reservoir: and then there were six cyclists heart 5
to Massy: The Fergana Valley heart 0
to Taskomur: Two milestones today: 20,000km in 500 days heart 0
to Kara-Kol: hot and hilly heart 0
to Toktogul Lake: one hill and a lake heart 0
to Swimming Hole Camp: around the lake and onto the dirt heart 0
to Cow Dung Camp: reality check heart 0
Week 72: to Toluk: just the two of us again heart 0
to creek camp: mostly hiking heart 0
to green hill camp: Looking over our shoulders for a truck that never came heart 0
to near Bashkaingdy: up and over that hill! heart 0
to Kochkor: Let's get there; the call of a warm shower and any food but pasta heart 0
to Issyk-Kul Lake: Easy day down to the second largest alpine lake in the world heart 0
Week 73: to Kaji-Say: Along the lake, dealing with traffic heart 0
to Last Lake campsite: One more night camping along Lake Issyk-Kul heart 0
to Karakol: glad to be done with this road heart 0
restdays in Karakol: happy birthday to Rachel, again. heart 0
to Willow Creek camp: Taking the longer but easier route to Kazakhstan heart 0

Kazakhstan: Country #27

Week 74: to Kegen: into Kazakhstan heart 0
to Charyn Canyon: a lot of work to see a canyon heart 0
to Chonzhy: not an easy departure from Charyn Canyon heart 0
to Zharkent: also part of bicycle touring heart 0

China - Xinjiang: Country #28

to Khorgas: Quite the border crossing heart 0
to Sayram Lake: Uphill on G30 heart 0
Week 75: to Poplar Grove Camp: downhill on G30 heart 0
to Jinghe: What's with the wind? heart 0
to another Poplar Grove Camp: met another cyclist! heart 0
to Kuitun: Hunt for a hotel that accepts foreigners. heart 0
to Shihenzi: just heading down the road heart 0
to Hutubi: One more day down G30 heart 0
Week 76: to Urumqi: Final push into the city heart 0
three days in Urumqi: junkfood! heart 0
to Powerline Camp: moving on heart 0
To Xinjiang Desert Camp: about 350km down the road with help heart 0
to Valley Desert Camp: no rides today heart 0
Week 77: to Tarkshken: desert and camels heart 0

Mongolia: Country #29

to Bulgan: Two attempts to cross the border. heart 0
to Pyramid Mountain Camp: eagles and vodka bottles heart 0
to White Rock Camp: the Mongolia we were waiting for heart 0
to Tsetseg Nuur Camp: awesome Mongolia heart 0
to Darvi: Across the grass lands on a short-cut road heart 0
Week 78: to Prairie Camp: Little Green Ger on the Prairie heart 0
to Dry River Camp: a tale of two winds heart 0
to Altai: time for a shower heart 0
to Rocky Canyon Camp: skirting storms heart 0
to View Point Camp: stuggling in a sandbox heart 0
to Blue Bridge Camp: wind and rain heart 0
Week 79: to Uliastai: miserable but rewarding heart 0
restday Uliastai: just some photos heart 0
to Ger Camp: Riding with Pierre heart 0
to Waterhole Camp: good road goes to tracks heart 0
To Tosontsengel: Racing the storm, deciding what to do next heart 0
to Tamarack Camp: as the road turns so does the wind heart 0
to Busted Bridge Camp: almost frozen heart 0
Week 80: to Tsetserleg: taking a ride heart 0
Two days in Tsetserleg: good food, warmth and rest heart 0
to Karkhorin: Valley of the horses under a blue sky heart 0
restday Karkohin: Erdene Zuu Monastery heart 0
to Mongol Els Ger: from snow to sand dunes heart 0
to Hilltop Ger: from Ger to Ger heart 0
Week 81: to Surprise Motel: smelling the barn heart 0
to Ulaanbaatar: the end of our Central Asia stage heart 0
ten days in Ulaanbaatar: heads up heart 0
Week 82: Seeing the sights: daytrip to Ginggis Khan statue and Terelj National Park heart 0
Reflection and Impressions of Mongolia: Ending Stage 5, Dushanbe Tajikistan to Ulaanbaatar Mongolia heart 0
Central Asia route: the places we slept. heart 0

Vietnam: Country #30

Week 83: Hanoi: into a different world heart 1
Halong Bay and Cat Ba Island: three day tour to see the coast heart 1
to Thai Nguyen: a change of plans: we are headed north heart 1
to Bang Lung: greenery and rain heart 1
to Bo Lu: short day, tough hills heart 1
Week 84: Ba Be National Park: boatride to Puong Cave heart 1
to Na Phac: holy cow!........the Cubs won!!! heart 1
to Tinh Tuc: Long and winding climb heart 1
to Bao Lac: on more hill and we will both cry heart 0
restday Bao Lac: mostly resting heart 0
to Meo Vac: a schweaty climb heart 0
Week 85: To Dong Van: rainy day on a beautiful road heart 0
to Yen Minh: karst and terraces heart 0
to Tam Son: two hills and more traffic heart 0
to Ha Giang: going slowly down Quan Ba pass heart 0
to Viet Quang: a "getting down the road" day heart 0
to Pho Rang: muddy roads heart 0
Week 86: to Lao Cai: skirting the China border heart 0
to Sapa: one long big hill heart 0
restday Sapa: visit to Cat Cat village heart 0
restday Sapa: market day: " kijke kijke, nie kope" heart 0
restday Sapa: down to the Bac Ha market heart 0
to Lai Chau: pay day: blue skies and rice paddies heart 0
to Dien Bien Phu: Down the hill, then a wild bus ride heart 0

Laos: Country #31

LAOS MAP heart 0
Week 87: to Muang Mai: Goodbye Vietnam, Good morning Laos heart 0
to Muang Khua: giving thanks for 25,000km heart 0
to Nong Khiaw: down the Nam Ou River heart 0
to Xong Ja: the little naked boys club still exists! heart 0
to Oudomsai: glad we broke-up the hills heart 0
to Nateuy: we don't remember any of this heart 0
to Luang Namtha: half a restday heart 0
Week 88: Vieng Phou Kha: across Nam Ha Biodiversity area, not as exiting as it sounds. heart 0
to Huay Xay: long day for us heart 0

Thailand - Northern: Country #32

THAILAND: Northern Map heart 0
to Chiang Saen: along the Mekong River heart 0
to Chiang Rai: ready for a restday heart 0
restday Chiang Rai: temple visits heart 0
To Chang Wat: Welcome to the "rubber triangle" heart 0
to Chiang Mai: caffeine and hills heart 0
Week 89: two days in Chiang Mai: taking care of business heart 0
to Chom Thong: further south heart 0
to Li: finding the small roads heart 0
to Thoen: let's get there and sleep heart 0
to Tak: bowling down the highway heart 0

Burma: Country #33

to Myawaddy: bus to Mae Sot, hop across the border heart 0
Week 90: to Yangon: Long time on a bus heart 0
Yangon, Rest day One: Paya tourist day heart 0
Yangon, restday two: market tourist day heart 0
to Okekan: narrow busy road, lots of traffic heart 0
to Gyobingauk: down highway 2 heart 0
to Pyay: at the Ayeyarwady River heart 0
restday Pyay: another town, another stupa heart 0
Week 91: to Aunglan: ox carts and sugarcane heart 0
to Taungdwingyi: tough and boring heart 0
to Yenangyaung: Not an easy short day heart 0
to Magway: horse drawn carriages and hay stacks heart 0
to Mount Popa: Merry Christmas heart 0
to Bagan: sunset from Shwesandaw Paya heart 0
Week 92: two days in Bagan: Barefoot kinda days with temple safari heart 0
to Mandalay: on an Irriwaddy River boat heart 0
two days in Mandalay: how many pagoda's are enough? heart 0
taxi to Nyaungshwe: Happy New Year 2017 heart 0
two days at Inle Lake: seeing the lake heart 0
Week 93: to Pinlaung: Steep hills heart 0
to Loikaw: bogged down in red mud heart 0
to Taungoo and Kyaikto: two days on the bus; experiencing a backpackers way of travel heart 0
to Thaton: it's a lot hotter down here heart 0
to Hpa-an: cyclists galore heart 0
Impressions of Myanmar: after 28 days heart 0

Thailand - Central

THAILAND: Central Map heart 0
to Tak: leaving Myanmar with mixed feelings heart 0
Week 94: to Sukhothai: Flat tires and rain heart 0
restday Sukhothai: visting the Sukhothai Historic Park heart 0
to Kamphaeng Phet: another Historic Park heart 0
to Nakhon Sawan: sugarcane but no Ping River heart 0
to Sing Buri: down the highway heart 0
to Ayutthaya: deja vu heart 0
Week 95: to Nonthaburi: last day cycling in Asia heart 0
couple of days in Bangkok: preparing for the next part of our trip heart 0
Since April 2015: Where we were on the 13th of each month heart 0
Southeast Asia route: the places we slept heart 0

Dutch vacation

Home to Ossendrecht: Goodbye Pad Thai, Hello kroketten! heart 0
Week 96 & 97: Dutch vacation: Drink, Eat, Drink heart 0

Peru: Country #34

PERU MAP heart 0
to Lima Peru: Goodbye kroketten, Hello empanadas heart 0
Week 98: Three days in Lima: Bike assembly, shopping and cerviche heart 0
to Chancay: To cycle or not to cycle out of Lima heart 0
to Huacho: Nothing but desert heart 0
to Barranca: last night at sea level for a while heart 0
to Chasquitambo - 700m: attack of the sandflies heart 0
to Cajacay - 2500m: from grey to green and 28,000km heart 0
Week 99: to Conococha - 4100m: into the clouds heart 0
to Huaraz - 3100m: riding along the Cordillera Blanca heart 0
Huascaran National Park: day trip to the Pastoruri Valley heart 0
Huaraz: carnaval! heart 0
to Yungay - 2500m: Hoy! heart 0
to Huallanca - 1400m: Canon Del Plato and 35 tunnels heart 0
to Chuquicara - 500m: with a roaring headwind through a fantastic canyon heart 0
Week 100: to camp on abandoned road - 1800m: upstream along a black Rio Tablachaca. heart 0
to Pallasca - 3100m: had to take a ride heart 0
to Mollebamba - 3200m: good thing we like switchbacks heart 0
to Cachicadan - 2900m: the right stuff heart 0
restday Cachicadan: drying out heart 0
to Huamachuco - 3160m: muddy roads to the 'big' town. heart 0
restday Huamachuco: town of the large hats heart 0
Week 101: to Cajabamba - 2650m: big skies heart 0
to San Marcos - 2200m: down, up and back down heart 0
to Cajamarca - 2700m: first taste of Chicha heart 0
restday Cajamarca: serendipity heart 0
another restday in Cajamarca: tour to Cumbe Mayo heart 0
to abandoned quarry camp - 3400m: getting rained on heart 0
Week 102: to Celendin - 2600m: donkeys and milk cans heart 0
to Maranon River viewpoint camp – 1480m: into the heat heart 0
to horse camp - 2940m: all day climb heart 0
to Leymebamba - 2200m: "zona de neblina" heart 0
restday Leymebamba: mummy museum heart 0
to Nuevo Tingo: and a visit to Keulap heart 0
to Pedro Ruiz: that was a long 1000k's heart 0
to Bagua Grande: got one of those "bastard dog bastards" heart 0
Week 103: to San Ignacio: too hot!! heart 0
to the Balsa border: and on to Vilcabamba Ecuador heart 0

Ecuador: Country #35

restday Vilcabamba: meeting up with travellers heart 0
to Loja: hills and cold rain heart 0
to Saraguro: more hills and rain heart 0
to Ona: still climbing but no rain heart 0
to Pine Forest Camp: another big Ecuador hill heart 0
Week 104: to Cuenca: from the forest to the third largest city in Ecuador heart 0
Cuenca Peru: Second year on the road heart 0
two days in Cuenca: seeing the sights and meeting people heart 0
to El Tambo: two days in one heart 0
restday El Tambo: Las ruinas de Ingapirca heart 0
to Chunchi: green hills of Ecuador heart 0
Week 105: to Guamote: most amazing patchwork of fields heart 0
to Riobamba: first views of Chimborazo heart 0
to Ambato: No fun, no views just cold rain and traffic heart 0
to Latacunga: Avenue of the Volcanoes? heart 0
restday Latacunga: There are volcanoes! heart 0
to Machachi: Sweet downhill heart 0
to El Quinche: up and down around Quito heart 0
Week 106: to Otavalo: two milestones: crossing the Equator and reaching 30,000km heart 0
to Ambuqui: down to a different climate heart 0
to Tulcan: one more hill in Ecuador heart 0

Colombia: Country #36

to Pedegral: longest ever border crossing heart 0
to Pasto: lots of cyclists in Colombia heart 0
restday Pasto: Treasure hunting heart 0
to Chachagui: cut short by rain heart 0
Week 107: to El Remolino: back to the tropics heart 0
to El Bordo: on the "Bouncy Castle of Health" heart 0
to Rosas: and up again to cooler temps heart 0
to Popayan: to the White City for Easter heart 0
restday Popayan: lots of white buildings heart 0
to Santander de Quilichao: another 1000 meter plus climbing day heart 0
to Palmira: flat roads and sugarcane fields heart 0
Week 108: to Buga: and a brew pub! heart 0
to Zarzal: rainy day, but we don't mind at all heart 0
to Cartago: quick ride, last day in the flat Cauca valley heart 0
to Santa Rosa de Cabal: the time of the flat roads is ending heart 0
Two days in Santa Rosa de Cabal: a waterfall and a margarita heart 0
to La Feliza: back to the Cauca River, hot! heart 0
Week 109: to Bolombolo: along the Cauca River heart 0
to Santa Fe de Antioquai: up and down along the Cauca River, man it is hot! heart 0
to Medellin: a bus ride up a big hill and through a tunnel heart 0
two restdays Medellin: its all about the food heart 0
to Puente Gavino: Out of town with the ciclovia heart 0
to Yali: last pass of the Cordillera heart 0
Week 110: to Remedios: not done with hills yet heart 0
to Zaragoza: a road best for bike packing heart 0
to Caucasia: we were promised flat asphalt roads on our aniversary heart 0
to Pueblo Nuevo: meeting cyclists heart 0
to Cerete: from undulating to a flat road heart 0
to Tolu: reaching the Caribbean Sea heart 0
Week 111: to Cruz del Vizo: shortcut and mangoes heart 0
to Cartagena: final riding day in South America heart 0
restdays in Cartagena: there are worse places to wait for a boat heart 0
restdays in Cartagena: door knockers heart 0
restdays in Cartagena: murals heart 0
South America route: the places we slept heart 0

Panama: Country #37

CENTRAL AMERICA MAP: Panama and Costa Rica, heart 0
Caribbean Sea: on the Quest heart 0
San Blas Islands: days in paradise heart 0
to Panama City: landfall at Portobelo heart 0
a day in Panama City: walking around the Old Quarter heart 0
Week 112: to San Carlos: across the Panama Canal heart 0
to Aguadulce: down the Pan American heart 0
to Canazas: to a church camp heart 0
to Las Lajas: Hombres Trabajando heart 0
to David: let's get out of here heart 0

Costa Rica: Country #38

to Ciudad Neily: pura vida heart 0
Week 113: to Palmar Norte: Over hills and through jungle heart 0
to Dominical: back to the Pacific Ocean heart 0
to Playa Hermosa: 100k and a football game heart 0
to Puntarenas: crocodile river heart 0
to Nicoya: a ferry and monkeys heart 0
to Liberia: down a busy road heart 0
Week 114: to La Cruz: into the jungle heart 0

Nicaragua: #39

CENTRAL AMERICA MAP: Nicaragua, Honduras, El Salvador heart 0
to San Jorge: along Lake Nicaragua heart 0
to Granada: a beautiful sunrise heart 0
restday Granada: a fine colonial city heart 0
to Esteli: Muddy roads then a chicken bus heart 0
to Somoto: a "dry" town heart 0

Honduras: Country #40

Week 115: to Choluteca: country bagging heart 0

El Salvador: Country #41

to San Miguel: quest for a 700c wheel heart 0
to Zacatecoluca: around an invisible volcano heart 0
to El Tunco: one more time to the Pacific heart 0
to Acajutla: winding and hilly road heart 0

Guatemala: Country #42

to Jutiapa: part on bus heart 0
to Ipala: volcanoes in the clouds heart 0
Week 116: to Gualan: Down to the Caribbean side heart 0
to Morales: No shoulder, No fun heart 0
to Rio Dulce: CGOAB rendezvous heart 0
restday Rio Dulce: reflecting on cyclist networking heart 0
to San Luis: Lots of rain and hills heart 0
to El Chal: Going a little further heart 0
to Flores: its an island heart 0
Week 117: restday Flores: Tikal heart 0
to La Libertad: Just a short day heart 0
to Poza de Macho: Fincas and Aldeas heart 0
to El Ceibo: Green hills to the border heart 0
MEXICO MAP heart 0
to Tenoisque: into Mexico heart 0
to Palenque: a twenty kilometer surprise heart 0
restday Palenque: Maya Ruins: Chiapas heart 0
Week 119: to Macuspana: with clouds and a tailwind heart 0
to Cardenas: from one Oxxo to the next heart 0
to La Venta: a one gear day heart 0
to Veracruz: one hundred days to Boise heart 0
Veracruz: restday heart 0
to Palma Sola: along the Gulf of Mexico heart 0
to La Guadalupe: Heading north heart 0
Week120: to Tuxpan: long day with a rough start heart 0
to Naranjos: finally getting away from traffic heart 0
to Tampico Alto: is the rainy season over? heart 0
to Aquiles Serdan: we call this heart 0
to Aldama: and this would be the other half heart 0
to Soto la Marina: we have left the tropics heart 0
Week 121: to Abasolo: into corn country heart 0
to San Fernando: hot and much dryer heart 0
to Valle Hermoso: last full day in Latin America heart 0
Central America and Mexico route: the places we slept heart 0

USA: Country #44

USA MAP heart 0
to Brownsville TX: and drive to Victoria TX heart 0


to Lutcher: along the Mississippi River Trail heart 0
to Baton Rouge: through the bayou heart 0
Week 122: to Jackson: zigzagging our way around the city heart 0


to Gloster - Homochitto National Forest: Through rolling woodlands heart 0
to Natchez State Park: Onto the Natchez Trace Parkway heart 0
to Rocky Springs: wet, hot, humid heart 0
to Goshen Springs: longer than expected heart 0
to Kosciusko: It's all about meeting good people heart 0
to Jeff Busby Park: Short day to a nice afternoon heart 0
Week 123: to Chickasaw Council: a fine cool day on the Trace heart 0
to Tishomingo State Park: Long and short miles heart 0


to Colbert Ferry Park: Into Alabama to the Tennessee River heart 0


to Meriwether Lewis Park: Meeting new friends heart 0
Meriwether Lewis Park: restday heart 0
to Lobelville: backroads of Tennessee heart 0
to Cumberland City: up and down in the Tennessee hills heart 0


Week 124: to the Land between the Lakes: More ups and downs into Kentucky heart 0


to Metropolis: across the Tennessee and Ohio Rivers and into the heart 0
to Carterville: heart 0
to Chester: meeting up with friends heart 0


to Farmington: on the Trans America trail heart 4
Week 125: to Meramec State Park: steep hills on route 185 heart 0
to Hermann: across the Missouri River and onto the Katy Trail heart 0
to Jefferson City: on the Katy Trail heart 0
Jefferson City restday: Good beer and plenty of it heart 0
to Franklin: Dodging a storm front on the Katy Trail heart 0
to Windsor: day of the eclipse heart 0
to Pleasant Hill: a birthday cake for Rachel heart 0


Week 126: to Lawrence: We are in kansas heart 0
to Holton: A beautiful day in Kansas heart 0
to Seneca: Eastern Kansas has hills heart 0


to Wymore: tailwind, crosswind, tailwind, crosswind heart 0
restday: Homestead National Monument heart 0
to Lincoln: a visit to the capital of Nebraska heart 0
to Schuyler: across the Platte River heart 0
Week 127: to Norfolk: heart 0
to Ewing: Headed west alongside the Cowboy Trail heart 0
to Stuart: sprinklers and sprinkles heart 0
to Ainsworth: Hay-zy day heart 0
to Valentine: Fighting the wind in the Nebraska Sand Hills. heart 0
to Cody: Fighting the wind in the Nebraska sand hills, continued. heart 0
to Gordon: Long roads, no services. heart 0
Week 128: to Chadron heart 0
Restday in Chadron: made the paper! heart 0

South Dakota

to Hot Springs: from the prairie into the Black Hills heart 0
to Custer: onto the Mickelson Trail heart 0
to Deadwood: long day on the Mickelson Trail heart 0
to Belle Fourche: To the geographic center of the USA heart 0


to Devils Tower: what an amazing sight heart 0
Week 129: restday at Devils Tower: hike around the tower heart 0
to Gillette: Onward heart 0
to Clearmont: Miserable day with a beautiful ending heart 0
to Sheridan: surprise meeting up with a Boise friend heart 0
restday Sheridan: we saw a moose heart 0
to Lovell: Over the Big Horn Mountains heart 0
to Powell: Cutting it a bit short heart 0


Week 130: to Bridger: Winter came early in Yellowstone heart 0
to Columbus: First day of fall heart 0
to Big Timber: Snow heart 0
to Bozeman: around the world heart 0
to Ennis: Clear skies and grand mountain vistas heart 0
to Twin Bridges: back on the Trans-Am heart 0
Week 131: to Dillon: Clear skies over Montana heart 0
to Jackson: two passes heart 0
to Chief Joseph Pass: Through the valley of heart 0
to Darby: Across the Continental Divide heart 0
to Missoula: Can't say no to a ride heart 0
Week 132: four days in Missoula: pampered by friends heart 0


to Lochsa Lodge: into Idaho heart 0
to Wilderness Gateway: along the Lochsa River heart 0
to Kooskia: Lochsa plus Selway makes Clearwater heart 0
to Whitebird: Over Whitebird Hill heart 0
to Pollock: a headwind along the Salmon River heart 0
to McCall: the final pass heart 0
to Donnelly: short ride and a visit with friends heart 0
to Banks: long ride and a visit with friends heart 0
to Boise: time to go home heart 3
Boise: First weeks home heart 2
home: this is it (for now) heart 4