to Hetauda: get us out of this bad air!

April 8, 2016

After our cornflakes and muesli breakfast we back track to Ratnanagar and rejoin the main road. A strong wind blows dust and black fumes from trucks making the air hazy.

Gone are the wheat fields. Instead we see corn growing and flat rice paddies on both sides of the road. No longer are people carrying loads on their heads but using a forehead strap, and leaning forward with the load resting on their backs. Gradually we start seeing more and more prayer flags. The east west highway follows the East Rapti River, our direction is upstream so we are slowly gaining altitude. One section we go through into forested and terraced hills.

Still few food stalls, except in concentrated areas of bus and truck stops. We are having to adjust from India where there were plenty of roadside stalls. Finally there is a shop and next to it a table and people sitting outside a kitchen area. Patrick asks "chai?" There is a nod, "yes", and we park our bikes and take a seat on a bench. We are not absolutely sure if this is really a shop, looks more like family's outdoor kitchen. We enjoy chai eat cookies and pay then on our way again wondering what the family was saying in Nepalese when looking at us.

When we go through a town, while there are more pedestrians and bikes, there are no traffic jams like in India. Motorcycle, truck and bus drivers continue to be crazy, honking less than India but still prevalent.

Just before finding the Avocado and Orchid resort, Patrick buys a watermelon for later. Next to the Resort and operated by the same management is the Avocado motel. The room is decent and fewer rupees than the resort. Patrick remembers staying here in 1992 and signing a cyclist guestbook.. At lunch, they pull out three cyclist guestbooks going back to 1995 only.

Resting the rest of the afternoon, we decide to go on tomorrow and get to Kathmandu on Sunday when hopefully there would be less traffic. Patrick went out for supplies to tackle the climb.

Our first chai break. We are not quite sure if this is a restaurant, or their dining area.

Group of kids hauling large bundles of fresh leaves, probably to be used as fodder for lifestock.

The air is bad again today. The hills around us are shrouded in smog.

Crossing a large river. The waterlevels are low and people are loading gravel or sand.

Avocado Motel. In 1992 Patrick stayed here also.

Today's ride: 71 km (44 miles)
Total: 15,540 km (9,650 miles)

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