to Tso Kar turn-off - 4650m: Across the Morei Plains - Racpat RTW 2015-2017

June 10, 2016

to Tso Kar turn-off - 4650m: Across the Morei Plains

“Oxygen” was all Patrick could get out of an Indian cyclists heading in the opposite direction.

The rain continues all evening and turns to wet snow overnight. In the morning it is damp and cold. We get up early, pack and have an omelet chapatti at the parachute tent. The climb up the Morei Plains starts right at Pang. Even though we are lower than at Whiskey Nalah, Patrick has a much harder time breathing this morning. He gets dizzy and almost passes out after exerting himself a little too much on the first kilometer. We end up walking the first five kilometers.

At eight kilometers we reach the edge of the plateau, there is an awesome view over the river canyon and mountains on the horizon, but the grey clouds hang low and obscure some of it. It snows lightly as we pedal onto the plateau on the first flat road we have seen in a long time. The road surface is great. The plains do not drop as much as the “cycling in the Himalayas” book says, it is mostly up and down with only a 100 meter loss over 35 kilometers.

At about noon we reach the turn-off to Tso Kar. We are happy to see there is a dhaba here. The two English cyclists passed us on the climb and have scored the whole back tent of one of the dhabas. It can easily sleep all five of us. The book is wrong on one other account, Tso Kar is much more than 7km away from the junction, probably more like 17 kilometers.

The five of us charter the little minivan from the other dhaba to drive us to the lake. It’s battery is dry though, so all hands on deck to give it a push-start. It is a beautiful but very bumpy drive on a paved road to the village near the lake. We are all glad not to have to cycle this, and back tomorrow. A snowstorm hits as we drive, but after a brief break at the village dhaba we reach the lake just as the sun breaks through again. The vista is magnificent, snowcapped mountains, a salt lake with green marshes surrounding it and dark storm clouds around. We walk to the lake shore and enjoy the scenery. Today really reminded us of Tibet.

Back at the junction dhaba we settle into our tent, clean up a little with a small can of cold water and hang tight until dinner. A pretty good storm is approaching with thunder, rain and snow. Just at sunrise it clears and we get some beautiful light over the mountains to our east.

Climbing from Pang up to the Morei Plains. The hill is not that big, but Patrick is having trouble with the altitude. The trick is to stay calm and keep breathing in slowly and deeply, but that is hard to do when you feel like you are suffocating.

Views over distant mountains over the Morei Plains.

Spot the cyclists. These are two English guys on rented bikes riding Manali to Leh.

Rachel and Dan making their way up to the Morei Plains.

On the Morei Plains. The fresh snow has melted and left puddles on the road.

Cycling on the Morei Plains. The valley is getting narrower as we move towards the last pass on this route.

Herders have set up their summer camps. There are huge herds of sheep, goats, and yaks.

A Tibetan sheep dog. This one seems mellow, but don't mess with the sheep herd they are protecting.

Today's ride: 43 km (27 miles)
Total: 18,047 km (11,207 miles)

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