to Cajamarca - 2700m: first taste of Chicha - Racpat RTW 2015-2017 - CycleBlaze

March 3, 2017

to Cajamarca - 2700m: first taste of Chicha

"Somebody chopped down the tree" Patrick says as we leave San Marcos. We have seen the "Yunza tree" throughout villages in this carnival season before lent. It's a small tree that has gifts tied in the branches and placed in ground. Then it is chopped down and like a pinata when it falls people scramble for the gifts.

We start climbing right out of the gate. And climb for 18.6 km. We stop near the high point at a shop for a sportsade drink (like Gatorade). Then the road dips a bit where we pass a house with a band practicing. We stop and listen for a while, and the lady brings over a glass of chicha (fermented corn beer), then we are off again climbing. "I can feel the chicha" Patrick says.

Another small climb to a small village with Condor statues in front of their church. "I've got my revenge on the sandflies, sucked up a few on the climb." Rachel says. When we dipped down the flies had swarmed though these seem not to bite.

Then a nice downhill, the landscape changes again. The hills are lower and covered with plotted fields. We see fields of lupine blooming. Milk is still being picked up in metal milk cans and it's strange to us to see the livestock like cows, sheep and pigs on a leash. We reach Namora, known as the cradle of carnival and land of artisan guitar. Taking a food break, we sit on the plaza steps by a giant guitar and violin in amongst the flowers and watch local life, people waiting for transportation, and women spinning wool on a spool or knitting. Mostly, we've not seen so many of the big white hats as in this town! A nice little town that would make a good destination if needed, as it does have homestays and restaurants.

Another climb out of town on switchbacks, we go through rock outcroppings

to the final downhill with switchbacks and just the right grade. It's never all downhill, there was a surprise hump into town. The road narrowed and the traffic increased and in the city proper, Patrick was ahead of Rachel and were separated for awhile, then reconnected to continue onto the Plaza des Aarmas. We check out one hotel that was way too expensive then circled around to the opposite side of the Plaza to Hostel Peru. Here there was a room, but small and no window, and since we are here for a couple of days, it's worthwhile to look around.

Patrick sets off walking while Rachel watches the bikes. In the meantime, a couple stops to talk with Rachel and then when Patrick returns, there is common ground. Marc is also from Holland. We settled on Hotel Prado a few blocks from the Plaza and off Amazon street. It's a bit of a maze to the room, and after an initial frustration the WiFi was fixed. For dinner we found a Chifa Restaurant. Although we like the lomo saltado, that is a dish we can count on when in the countryside. For the next couple of days our food fixation will concentrate on different dishes.

As the evening progressed, and the thunderclouds grew, the rain started pouring. Nice to be settled inside.

Red flower. The stem keeps going to the next cluster.
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Nice morning for a bike ride. It's all up though from San Marcos.
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Peru for the Peruanos! Let's build a wall.
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Band having a jam session. The lady of the house has a can of "chicha" to keep them lubricated.
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Ofcourse we have to try it too. 8:30 in the morning is a great time for your first shot.
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Large algave plants line the road again.
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Plaza in a small village we pass through. They have concrete condors in front of the church.
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Field of purple lupines.
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Not sure why they have rows of stones in their abdobe walls. It could be to provide some flexibility in case of earthquakes, but unless there are vertical rods to keep everything together the house might slide apart. Maybe it is just for better adhesion of the stucco finish layer. Anyone who knows?
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Row of 'big-hat-ladies' in Namora.
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Waiting for a bus in Namora.
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Balcony in Namora.
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Street scene in Namora.
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Arived at the Cajamarca Plaza des Armas. We park the bikes while Patrick goes looking for a decent budget place.
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Marc, a Dutch guy from Kaatsheuvel and his friend from Lima come and talk with Rachel.
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Today's ride: 64 km (40 miles)
Total: 28,681 km (17,811 miles)

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