To Lamahi: Today was a struggle

April 26, 2016

"We must remember the ORS when we get to the Hotel. We drank 8 liters yesterday afternoon in the hotel. I think we need the minerals that's why we are both struggling," Patrick says. Rachel thinks we are in a vortex or black hole where time and kilometers stop, as it seemed forever getting up the hill, the kilometers clicked away so slowly. Patrick even jokes when we reach the top point in elevation about the 300 meter climb "wiped me out".

Up at first light, we beat the heat but not the wind. The wind usually comes up later, but today we had both a hill and a headwind. Except for the haze in the air, the ride through a forested gorge was nice, a not too steep grade. The houses are stick and mud colored yellow on top and red clay on the bottom, the roof straw covered. Each hut has a small solar panel probably just enough to charge the cell phone and an LED light. At a huge roadcut, we stop for a break to eat peanut butter and crackers maybe this will help the sluggishness.

Finally descending into Bhaluwang before crossing the West Rapti River into town there is a nice looking Hotel, and in the town another decent looking guesthouses. We stop for a break at one of a food stalls where the buses stop and across the road is another decent looking guesthouse. We reflect and are happy with the decision to not continue on to get here yesterday. We are a bit refreshed after the break with a cold coke, samosas and omelet.

The next 25kms is relatively flat and the wind has died down making a little easier go of it. We start to see many people carrying umbrellas to shade against the sun. The temperature today was 44 Celcius, and we were lucky to get into Lamahi before it got that hot.

We are looking for Hotel Duhari Durbar, mentioned in another blog and not on google maps. We spot it on the left, pull in and Patrick checks out a room. The first room smelled. The second room wasn't clean. The third room was ok. There's not much other options.

So we check in before noon. The room has Air Conditioning and supposedly electricity 24 hours. Except, there was load sharing and we lost AC only so we were still able to charge our electrical devices. We are brought what looks like two new pillows and a towel. Then another knock on the door, a kid brings in a mirror and uses a rock to nail it to the wall. There was hot water, just didn't come out of the shower tap, so Rachel took a sponge and bucket bath, Patrick a cold shower. The toilet is at least not a squat toilet, but is a bit disgusting looking and with old toothbrush and soap left in the soap dish. We have egg and vegetable chow mein lunch in the hotel restaurant, just don't want to look in the kitchen.

Tomorrow is a long distance day of 110kms.

We have to pass over some hills today. The slopes are forested and there are a few small villages with thatched huts that look very poor.

At first Patrick thought this was a bearclaw sign like you see near Yellowstone. Upon getting closer it is obvious that a bear does not have six toes, so they must be rolling rocks.

This particular rock-cut shows up in quite a few CGOAB journals. We had to get a picture and take a break.

Wiped out after climbing only about 300 meters up this hill.....

Halfway and done with the hills. We have lunch in the town across the river.

It is hot and the sun is strong, even at only 10:00 am. Cowherders protect themselves with a parasol. This heat will only get worse until the monsoon hits sometime in July or August. Then it will be hot and humid.

One of the more "colorful" bathrooms we have come across. There is a rusted electric waterheater, but the way it is not hooked-up to the shower head. The room and toilet haven't been cleaned for a while. Very thoughtful though, they have left lots of left-over soaps, some half empty shampoo pouches and even a tooth brush, just in case you forgot yours.

Today's ride: 59 km (37 miles)
Total: 16,222 km (10,074 miles)

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