to Tam Son: two hills and more traffic

November 11, 2016

The weather still is not the blue skies and sunshine we are hoping for, but at least it doesn't rain on us.

The clouds loom low in the valley though, it forms a lid through which we climb our first pass. We have to gain about 500 meters, then a small downhill and up again to the high point of the first pass. There are very nice views on this first section, below us are terraced rice fields all the way down. This time of year though most of the fields have been harvested and are laying fallow. With some water, fresh green rice sprouts and of course that blue sky, the vistas would be stunning.

After the first pass we descend losing almost all the elevation we gained this morning. We reach a green river that flows from China. For about 20 kilometers this valley gives us some relatively flat cycling. We meet our first cyclists, a couple from Spain.

At about 10 kilometers to go we start the next climb. It is pretty much up all the way to Tam Son, but after a steep start the gradient mellows out a bit and we can grind our way up at a pretty good pace. We reach Tam Son at about 1pm, check in at Hotel 567. Then backtrack to a little restaurant we saw on our way in for lunch before carrying our gear up the three flights of stairs. Once we settle into our room, we like to clean up then it becomes late for lunch and too early for dinner.

There we meet the second group of cyclists: two guys from the UK and USA. They are riding ultra light, already came up the hill from Ha Giang today and are aiming to get to Yen Minh today. The American guy lives in China and is riding a bamboo bike. Patrick asks if he knows Peter Snow, Bike China, and he does. In 2006-07, we had contact with Peter when trying to arrange riding in Tibet. Patrick had sent a package of supplies to Peter, but when we decided to go across Tibet illegally, Peter had one of his guides bring the package to us in Dali, Yunnan China.

After lunch, we settle into our room. Even though it is about 18 degrees C, we are cold and need the hot shower to warm up.