to Twin Bridges: back on the Trans-Am

September 26, 2017

Even though the weather forecast did not mention it, we get some light rain overnight. In the morning there is a spectacular sight of a rainstorm tracking north to south along the Madison Range to our east. The sun is trying to break through, but sheets of rain block it. It is beautiful, except for us being just on the fringe of the storm and receiving some splatters as well.

We break camp, have our typical breakfast and head out. About two kilometers down the road is the main junction in Ennis where we join the Trans America Route again. Last time we were on it was in Missouri. Right out of town starts a ten mile long climb of about 600 meters to the top of the big hill today. The grade is not overly steep, but it just keeps going. After climbing up on the first “bench” we can see the road traverses the hills in front of us and disappear across a ridge that might be the first summit. The valleys above Ennis are again covered in double-wide trailer homes, complete with palette fencing and plenty of car wrecks sitting in the yard, and several nice looking larger homes with awesome views over the Madison Range.Aqàq It seems like more and more Montana ranchers are cashing in on their land-wealth and planting subdivisions.

After about an hour and a half we reach the high point we had been seeing from below and discover there is another valley behind it, with a couple more miles of less steep climbing. At the summit we don the clothes we had shed on the uphill and start a nice descent into Virginia City. We reach town just minutes after 11, but find that the cafe has stopped serving breakfast. Bummer, the ham and bean soup is a sorry substitute for a hearty second breakfast.

A couple of miles outside of Nevada City we run into our first cycle tourist for a while: John is cycling from the west coast to his home near Pueblo Colorado and plans to complete his ride next spring. He tells us about a German that is behind him and indeed, just before Sheridan we meet Ulrich too. The nice thing of riding on the Trans-Am is running into other cyclists. After Sheridan, the shoulder returns and it’s a gentle downhill to town.

We push onto Twin Bridges “the small town that cares” where the community has created the “Bill White Bike Camp” in the city park. There is a small building with a couple of old couches, a counter and even a hot shower and restroom, complete with a sign to not take the toilet paper that there is a very fine market on main street. Seems cyclists have a reputation for stealing the toilet paper. Since we suspect the lights will come on automatically, we pitch our tent outside, but there is plenty of room to sleep inside had we wanted too. There is a guestbook but it has been a couple of days since the last rider stayed here. The Bike Camp is a very nice initiative of this town. We leave a donation and walk across the bridge into town intending to spend a few dollars at the local restaurant that supported this shelter. The restaurant is only open for take-out (weird), so we end up next door for excellent burgers but no beer…….

The lights in the building do not come on once it gets dark so we move our tent inside. There is plenty of room and it will be a little warmer and drier in here.

House for sale. It seems to be build on quicksand though.....

Another thot of rain clouds and the Madison Range.

Big Sky country for sure, but a lot of the large open spaces are being subdivided and build on.

There is something arrogant about building your mansion on the top of a hill.

We meet John on his way from the West Coast to Colorado.

We take a break at the Alder gas station.

Hay, an old truck and the mountains beyond. Typical Montana.

Entrance to Twin Bridges, "the small town that cares".

Bill White had the idea to built a Bike Camp in Twin Bridges so passing cyclists would have a place to stay. It is free, but donations are appreciated.

Today's ride: 72 km (45 miles)
Total: 40,237 km (24,987 miles)

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