to Taldyk River campsite: Last pass on the Pamir Highway and a thunderstorm

July 29, 2016

There still was a mild wind blowing as we broke camp and set off on the descent of 24kms to Gulcha. The valley is becoming more populated with small villages and the road continues to crisscross the Gulcha River. We stop at a bridge crossing to eat, we haven’t seen Jo behind us for a while. We wait another 15mins and no Jo, so decide to continue on the 8kms to Gulcha and wait there.

We needed fuel for our cook stove as the plan is to get close to Osh, and still camp again tonight. This will have us riding into the city before lunchtime and giving us the afternoon in Osh. There are five gas stations within sight of the round-about in Gulcha. Soon Jo appears, he had a flat tire just after leaving camp. We go back to a shop we saw coming into town that is also a café. At a table and chairs, we eat our snacks. There was a table of food set for a group that we drool over and talk about how we should have ordered a rice pilaf. The shop owners must have over heard us, because we are brought a big plate of rice pilaf, a small salad of tomato, cucumber and corn, and a pot of chai.

After thanking them, we set off to tackle the last pass to Osh, gaining 900meters over 21kms. There is no 8% grade sign, Rachel thinks because this section is steeper and they don’t have any other grade % sign. Looking up, the hillside is dotted with yurts and we can see the road climb. We stop for a rest a food break at bus stalls about every 200meter gain. The last 400meters are switchbacks.

At the summit, we stop at a yurt for a rest and chai before starting the final descent to Osh. A couple of Kyrgyz guys share our eating shelter and offer us some of the fermented horse-milk we have all heard about. Jo likes it, we chalk it up as another experience you have to do once and never again. We see storm clouds forming and decide the first spot we see that is acceptable to camp we will stop. Finding a spot near an irrigation ditch in a wide floodplain we pull off and quickly set up our tents, just before there is roaring thunder and tremendous downpour with hail. We find that we’ve pitched the tent in a low point as water starts to seep under one side of the tent. Inside we try to manage the water, repack the thermarests, save the sleeping bag from getting wet by re-stuffing into dry bag and wait out the storm.

When the rainstorm passes, we finish packing the inside of the tent and take down the inner tent to hang on a line to dry the bottom. We let the ground sheet air dry then move the tent to a little bit higher ground and start over. While Rachel is fixing up the inside of the tent, Patrick and Jo fix our last, hopefully, pasta dinner for a while. We are looking forward to being in Osh and having more variety in choice of foods.

Our last night out on the Pamir Highway, we had our traditional whiskey and snicker bars while sequestered inside the tent as another rain storm passes.

Meandering road follows the river valley through green hills down to Gulcha.

In Gulcha we stop at a shop to buy some snacks and eat our own food. The owners are having a brunch and share their food with us.

Rickety suspension bridge at Gulcha. This guy rides his bike across it with hesitation.

Downhill to Osh. Green covered mountains with many yurts and grazing animals.

Last night out on the Pamir Highway. The food situation is dire, we share the last of our noodles, some tomato paste, corn and green peas. The guys do the cooking tonight.

In our tent after the storm. Dessert of a snicker bar and a small bottle of Kyrgyz whiskey.

Today's ride: 53 km (33 miles)
Total: 19,800 km (12,296 miles)

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