To Bumba: Congo Nile Trail, Day two: Hardest 42k's ever

September 5, 2015

"This must be the trail part of the Congo Nile Trail", says Rachel as the road becomes more narrow and rockier and eventually a single track. Today we hiked and biked the Congo Nile Trail, or maybe it's hiking with a bike.

We start out closer to 0800, later than usual for us, because we are having breakfast at the guesthouse...can't pass up another good cup of coffee. It takes us 2 hours to go 18 kms from Cyimbiri to Kinunu. We take a food break at a junction and confirm which way to go. The road continues to be in bad condition with steep hills making downhill almost as difficult as going up.

From Kinunu to Musasa, another 2 hours to go 8kms. Here the road becomes a single track for awhile, before rejoining the road. Musasa is one of the base camps on the CNT, and in retrospect, this would have been a good place to stop for the day. Thinking we only have 12kms left, we push on.

Constant up and down steep hills (1450 to 1850 meters), waterfalls and streams at the side of the road, lush vegetation and constant requests for money or icupa (bottles) from the kids. The next stretch takes us through lowlands, probably impassable in the rainy season and grassy roadbed with single track. After another 3hours and 37kms from Cyimbiri, we get to a junction where we thought was Bumba. A man approaches us and asks if we are looking for Bumba Base Camp, "I can show", he says, and points up to the top of a hill. There is also someone who speaks French with Patrick, that indicates a road to the right. Research would give us an idea if this is an alternative route to going straight up a hill to Bumba.

We try cycling, but the grade quickly becomes too steep for a loaded touring bike. We are becoming aware this trail is more doable by mountain bikes or bikepacking, even then that could be stretch. We've reached where the major difference between lowest point and highest point on the trail is located.

The man follows us as we push our bikes...and waits...as we stop for rests. He directs a couple of kids to help push Patrick's bike, he starts helping push Rachel's bike.

5kms and 2 hours later (530pm), we reach Bumba Base Camp, a very basic guesthouse with friendly and helpful people. They provide hot water in a bucket with a lid for a sponge bath, and two beers were delivered when asked if we would like something to drink. By 700pm, a thunderstorm started as we waited to be told dinner was ready. There's a knock on the door, and dinner is brought to us!

This was a very tough day of cycling yet well worth the experience and beautiful scenery. Lake Kivu is a beautiful lake that is between Rwanda and Democratic Republic Congo. Rwanda is definitely living up to the reputation of a "country with a thousand hills". We think this will be our constant refrain.

Fishing village with a mosque and veiled women.

Most kids are alright, after a "good morning" and "how are you?" they typically want money, but a stern "no" most times puts an end to that subject.

There are some signs along the route, but we don't always trust them. Google maps has not drawn this road, but with the GPS on our tablet and the satellite pictures on googlemaps we can figure things out. Of course the locals are always willing to help, it is just difficult to guestimate the reliabilitly of their information.

Rachel is just crossing the bridge at the top of this waterfall.

Kids help pushing our bikes on the steepest sections. We do warn them: "no money!" Actually, we probably spoil it for the next cyclists by giving these kids a package of cookies.

It is hard to get away from the kids, they can easily keep up running.

The trail turns to single-track for a while.

They follow us for at least two kilometers, pestering us with: "give me....."

Patrick has had enough, he parks the bike and gives chase. The kids scatter. One loses his flip-flops and is afraid to come back for them. "Now I feel bad" Patrick says.

At the end of the afternoon the sky turns dark and storms blow in...but after we reached Bumba Guesthouse.

Today's ride: 42 km (26 miles)
Total: 6,643 km (4,125 miles)

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