to Rogun: Tajik hospitality

July 4, 2016

"Stay right" Rachel says, as we start to turn onto a main street to connect to M41. After almost a year cycling on the left side of the road, we start today remembering to stay on the right side. We say our goodbyes to Tony and Sarah, they will be one or two days behind us. After seeing so few cyclists so far on our trip, this has been fun to be in a place with so many. Cycling the Pamirs has truly become the destination.

We start to notice what is unique to Tajikistan. About 10-12kms from Dushanbe, is a town with a well stocked market. We learn to recognize the sign Mapka3m and Cabio as markets. Most of the cars on the road are old model Opels, mostly Vectra and Astra models, many still with the NL (Netherlands) of D (German) stickers attached. Not too far into setting off, Patrick has a front wheel flat tire. The last day cycling in India, he had a rear wheel flat tire. He fixed the tire at a shop, where out front there are large metal frames on legs about 3 feet tall that later we see are platforms for cushions for sitting or sleeping. As we cycle, we see a single line of Aspen trees with wire attached that becomes a living fence.

The predominate religion is Sunni Islam, with the restrictions less widely observed. With Ramadan coming to an end, we may not have even known that it was Ramadan, unlike when we've travelled in Turkey and Indonesia with many mosques that seemed to lecture with the calling to prayer, and the shops closed during the day. The men wear a round hat with a design. The women wear a long straight smock with long sleeves and matching leggings. Their hair is covered with scarves.

We stop for our first break and two other cyclists come up. Both British, Will is the "Supercycling Man", check his site at http://supercyclingman.com/ and see the good work he is doing for kids and charities and maybe fund him. And yes, he is dressed like superman. Along with Will, is Jo, they just met up in Dushanbe. While Will plans to take 5 years to cycle the 7 continents (including Antarctia), Jo just finished university and set off from England on an open ended trip. http://josiahskeats.com/

Outside Faziobad, we take another rest break and see a cyclist coming down the road, a Dutchman on the road for 3 years. There were plenty of hills today with stretches of rocky road. When we reach the town at the summit of the last hill above Obi Garam, we stopped for water and ask about camping. An English teacher speaks with Patrick, and says yes, can camp anywhere. He invites us, first to his father's house, 5 kms away in this town. We load gear into the car and bikes on roof. Then he says we could go to his house 20 kms away and meet his wife and 7 children. He drives an Opel Astra with 450 thousand km on the odometer. He was able to buy it because his brother who works in Russia sent money. So off we go downhill 10 kms to turnoff to his town, Rogun, another 10kms to his house.

We are given a big room with mats and cushions, then for dinner a low table is brought in and lots of food. Delicious mutton soup, veggies to add in soup, bread, fruit, melon, and chocolates along with plenty of tea. For sleeping, more mats are piled together.

For our first day cycling, we start off experiencing the wonderful hospitality of the Tajik people.

Ready to leave the Green House Hostel in Dushanbe. Ready for the Pamirs!

Many fruitstands line the road. The peaches, apples and cherries are excellent.

Also many flags and posters of the president. Tajikistan has had one president since the end of the civil war twenty years ago.

We meet William aka "super cycle man" and his friend Jo.

Another photo with the president photoshopped in.

Several things don't seem right about these horses..... Plus I don't like the way he looks at me.

Patrick had a flat tire on the last day of cycling in India. Another flat tire, front one this time, on the first day of cycling in Tajikistan.

Having dinner with Jurabek, an english teacher in Rogun. Guests are treated like royalty, all kinds of foods are put on the table for us.

Rachel with one of Jurabek's five daughters.

Today's ride: 76 km (47 miles)
Total: 18,671 km (11,595 miles)

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