June 18, 2016
to Lamayuru - 3650m: leaving the Indus River, climbing through a moonscape to a gompa
"I got the whistle" Rachel says when Patrick sees her stopped at the police checkpoint. Madame stopped this time, unlike in Malawi "when madame didn't stop". Once again our passport and visa information is written in a large ledger. Before setting off again, we bought some dried apricots from a local woman.
We left early today because our hosts were headed to Leh for a Buddhist celebration. We were grateful they allowed us to stay last night, this is a lovely place to stay. We were on the road by 6am after our cornflakes and a nice surprise, tea provided.
The road is undulating losing and gaining the same 50 meters following the Indus river until after Khalsi. Here the river continues into Pakistan. We have Military convoys pass us. Switchbacks begin at the Wanla turnoff. Sometimes very steep, we reach Lamayura and find the Moonland Hotel, on the switchback just below the monastery. We'd heard that the monastery guesthouse was decent, but we decided we were done climbing for the day. For 1200 rupees, we roll bikes fully loaded into the room, a warm shower, and the first time in India, a notice to put toilet paper in bin.
We join a crowd of Indian tourists for a lunch buffet, rest a bit then walk to the Monastery. We realize this is probably the last monastery we'll see, at least for awhile. This area has been very Tibetan which is good since China reported plans to demolitioning a Tibetan religious village in Sichuan province.
Tomorrow to Mulbek with two climbs.
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Today's ride: 53 km (33 miles)
Total: 18,285 km (11,355 miles)
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