Week 33: To El-Fari Campground: somewhere in the Kalahari a cold beer is waiting for us

November 11, 2015

"There's something for you at the house," the woman in the vehicle says to Rachel who is lying down in the shade exhausted. We are pushing our bikes the last kilometer in the soft sand to the El-Fari campground.

Patrick found this bush camp through Tracks4Africa and been in email contact with owner, asking questions about whether there was food or "cold ones" to buy. She answered that she would see what she could do. There was a 6-pack of Windhoek beer in fridge for us! A nice end to a very long day.

We started out early knowing that the heat and wind can make or break a days ride. Along the road, we see a broken blue crate hanging from a tree, or an old car door hanging on a pole, or an old tire tacked on a fence pole. All marking a track or road indicating there are people living out here in the desert. There is very little public transportation, about one or two buses each day. People patiently wait at the side of the road to flag down a ride.

"Oh look, a hill" Rachel says. Finally there is something new on the horizon, 3 or 4 mounds in the distance. And the road climbs up about 50 meters then returns to mostly flat. At Kuke, 76 kms from Sehitwas, we decide to continue on to the El-Fari Bush camp. We are drinking the ORS solution and eating protein bars, the heat is slowing Rachel down. The last 20kms to the campground turnoff was difficult.

Made even more difficult by the 1.5km driveway to the campground. The first part is gravel and then turns to the soft sand. There is a local man who offers to help push and he is unable to control Patrick's bike alone. Patrick pushes Rachel's bike all the way to the campground and returns then to help push his own bike. Just then the owner comes by, Rachel got a lift. The owners gave us cold water to drink straight away. We get our bikes to the kitchen area of the campground, then we both go stand in the shower fully clothed to cool off. Also, an easy way to do laundry at the same time.

And then we enjoy a cold beer.

Many dead donkeys by the side of the road again.

The Kuke fence runs across Botswana to quarantine hoof-and-mouth disease.

After many miles of flat we see a few hills on the horizon.

After more than 8000km with no flat tires, flats seem to become a daily occurance. Here a thorn caused a puncture on Patrick's front wheel.

Driveway to El-Fari Campground. The last kilometer is brutal: deep loose sand and very hot.

Arrived at El-Fari with a load of sand in our shoes.

Our campsite next to a wooden cattle trough.

Today's ride: 129 km (80 miles)
Total: 9,381 km (5,826 miles)

Rate this entry's writing	Heart	2
Comment on this entry	Comment	0