to Rumtse - 4200m: over Tanglang La (5300m) - Racpat RTW 2015-2017

June 11, 2016

to Rumtse - 4200m: over Tanglang La (5300m)

Patrick has another rough night. Neither of us has altitude sickness, but Patrick is short of breath and has to keep breathing in deeply to avoid getting dizzy.

The toilet enclosure at our dhaba has a magnificent view. It is surrounded on two sides with a three foot high screening material, but the south and east sides are left open so one can enjoy the view while squatting on the narrow slate rocks that span the trench. It is a three-holer. We are not sure if this is done so there is no need for waiting if there are other occupants, or if it is just so you can pick the one that looks best. Either way, while doing your business at 6:00 am, in the freezing cold, the view is awesome.

It is very cold this morning, much colder than the previous nights at higher altitudes. We pack-up while the friendly Tibetan dhaba ladies fix our chai and chapatti omelet. From the junction the road continues a couple of kilometers down the plains which gradually turn into a valley. We find the source of all the dog barking we heard last night, there are at least a dozen summer camps set up by sheep, goat and yak herders. Their tents are set up on the grassy plains with snow covered mountains on all sides. A pretty site, but no running water. Water is delivered in big tank trucks filling the water plastic container available.

After about five kilometers we round a corner into the next valley and can see the road climb up the valley sides for about 20 kilometers and 700 meter altitude gain to the Tanglang Pass. It will take us about four hours to climb. Most of the road is good asphalt, but a section of about 2km is gravel and packed mud. As we climb, occasionally there are road signs indicating a steep climb, go figure. We struggle with the lack of oxygen as we climb above 5000 meters. The odometer on Patrick’s bike only registers to 4999 meters, what is up with that?

At the pass is a stupa, a small temple, thousands of prayer flags and a dhaba. The view, especially to the north reveals mountain after mountain ridge for as far as we can see. I don’t know who would want to sleep this high, but the cup of hot chai is appreciated. Then starts a great downhill, pretty much all the way to Rumtse. The road descends from the snow and ice into a dryer, canyon with colorful rock walls.

Rumtse has several basic guesthouses, some of which advertise hot showers on their signboards. Problem is that the power is out in the whole town, so for now no hot water. We settle on one of the better looking places, Rumtse Restaurant and Rooms, and when the power comes on at about three we enjoy our first hot bucket bath in a week. We were hoping for a powerful hot shower, but that might have to wait until Leh.

Another afternoon storm passes through, we eat our customary plate of rice, dal, cabbage and chapatti at a small restaurant and settle into our room. Staying warm and dry is the motto.

The dhaba lady who has been fixing us chai and food.

The sheep herds are filling up the high mountain pastures for the summer.

Long climb up Tanglang La. We are still about 15km away and a lot lower.

The two English cyclists catch up with us and fly right past. Younger legs and much less luggage I guess..... Maybe we will meet again in Leh for a beer.

Reached the summit of Tanglang La. Depending on who you believe this is the second highest pass in the world, number one is just a hair taller.

Downhill from Tanglang La. It seems like we can see forever.

As we decend it warms up and the landscape becomes desert like again.

Depending on who you believe we entered Ladakh a couple of days ago.

Today's ride: 43 km (27 miles)
Total: 18,090 km (11,234 miles)

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