to Posof: one big dusty hill

July 3, 2015

Right from the start out of Hanak we start climbing. Little did we know that this was the easy hill. When we had stopped for a photo, a young cow herder comes over to talk with us. Then his cell phone rings, it's the other herder up on the hill telling him to get back to minding the cows, they were about to go on the road.

We are constantly passed by Iranian Oil tankers. We see them again at the bottom of the descent from the first climb and through the road construction when we take a break. The second climb is no fun. Rachel ends up having to walk pushing her bike, Patrick is able to cycle the steep 10% grade, with frequent stops. We admire all the cyclists before and after us who can cycle this hill. One way or another, we get down the road and to the summit.

Then, road construction on the beginning of the downhill giving way eventually to really bad asphalt. This route though one day will be good roads with all the new road building. We reach Posof and Hotel Klas but not without one...more...steep....hill. Today is our last day in Turkey, in 15kms tomorrow we will be in Georgia, country number 12.

Impressions of Turkey:

1. The most friendly helpful people anywhere. They love shaking your hand in greeting

2. History abounds in Turkey...East meets West, Blue Mosque, Hagia Sophia, Cappadocia, Nemrut Dagi, Ani

3. Tea, Turks must be the number 1 tea drinkers

4. After meals, given a handwipe or a hand santizer solution is sprinkled on your hands

5. Turks gave the world Yogurt, Buttons, and Tourquoise

6. If you speak German and/or French but not Turkish, you can still find someone to communicate with

7. Accommodation is easy to find, in towns without hotels, there are "Teacher's Houses" (Ogretmen Evi) where you can rent a room. There would be plenty of opportunity to free camp if it's advisable

8. Oh yes, the Turks love tea in little glasses places on a saucer

9. Turkish coffee however, is a thick sludge

10. Turkey is VERY HILLY for cycling

11. Lots of road construction going on with creating 4 lane highways

12. Every cluster of houses have a mosque

13. Gas stations also have a mosque

14. Every meal will have cucumber and tomato salad

15. Breakfast is a variety of cheese, pate, black and/or green olives, cucumber, tomato, hard boiled egg, and surprisingly, Tea

16. Ayran is a salty yogurt drink

17. Turkish Lira: 1 lira = $.40, a cup of tea is 1 lira

18. Fruit in abundance: watermelon, apricots, cherries

19. Roads are lined with wildflowers this time of year

20. Waterway connections: Black sea, Bosphorous, Dardnelles, Aegan Sea to the Mediterraen.

21. Metza plate appetizers, donar kebabs, chicken shish kebab

22. Hello=Merhaba; Goodby=Gule, Gule (if you are the one staying)

23. Tekel is where beer is sold, and then placed in a dark bag

24. Was Tea mentioned?

25. Shopping in the Bazaar in Istanbul and the spice market. Sections of the bazaar have specialties grouped together: shoes, gold, spices etc. Today, the streets also are designated specialties i.e. bikes shops clustered together, stationary shops all on the same street etc

26. Baklava! Turks love their sweets

27. Ramadan: cycling in a Muslim country during Ramadan can be difficult. The Turks are most tolerant of non-muslims. Lokantas (cafes) may be open though the front of the shops covered with cloth. Iftar at the end of the day of fasting was a great value and in certain resturants. Mostly men would be seated at tables already set, waiting for the Iman to call the end of the fast...then serving begins and 20 minutes later the resturant is empty

28. Women's dress is a wide variety, headscarves with western style dress; headscarves with a long coat over clothes; no headscarf; only in Istanbul did we see women dressed in Burkas

29. A great place to meet other cyclists travelling in all directions

30. And finally, Turks love tea

The first of two climbs today. Leaving Hanak we go from 1800 to about 2100 meters.

There are lots of trucks headed to Georgia, especially Iranian fuel trucks.....

The second climb from about 2000 to 2550 meters starts off with road construction. Lots of dust.

The road climbs up Ilgar Mountain and crosses over the western shoulder before descending towards Georgia.

It wasn't easy, but we made it to the pass.

Today's ride: 51 km (32 miles)
Total: 4,590 km (2,850 miles)

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