To Leh - 3500m: Hot showers, Western food and a good bed - Racpat RTW 2015-2017 - CycleBlaze

June 13, 2016

To Leh - 3500m: Hot showers, Western food and a good bed

“One life, one journey” the man says as we are loading up the bikes for the final push to Leh. “What a beautiful morning to end the ride” Patrick says.

We head off on the narrower road and the traffic increases dramatically. There are many stupas in the desert-like rock fields, old crumbling ones and new freshly painted ones. Interspersed with the dry scree are irrigated fields with barley surrounded by willow trees. We pass another large military base, then the road starts to climb away from the Indus River towards Leh.

The road becomes a divided four-lane road, much nicer because now we don’t need to worry about passing oncoming traffic trying to run us off the road. Dan has gone ahead but waits for us at the traffic circle that announces we have arrived in Leh. To get to the area with the tourist hotels though we still have some climbing to do. We choose the “old Leh road”, as opposed to following the newer highway. The old road though is torn-up and steep with lots of traffic. We end up pushing our bikes most of the last kilometer. Later on we’ll drive the new road to see monasteries and see that it is even steeper, but at least paved. No telling which one is the better choice.

After some searching we settle on an area just north of the old town and east of the Changspa main backpackers area. Right in between, a 15 minute walk either to the backpacker restaurants of Changspa, or the old town with its bazaar and alleys. We go for pizza to celebrate, but sadly cannot find a decent beer, all they serve is that terrible 8% alcohol “strong” beer that seems to be created to get drunk, not to enjoy the brew. Shame on you Carlsberg, Turborg and Kingfisher!

We settle into a room at the Travelers House, Dan picks a cheaper room at Zik Zik guesthouse. Hot showers, nice room and soft bed.

Headed towards Leh.
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Large wall carvings at Shey Monastery.
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A newer Buddhist Monastery just outside of Leh.
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Reached the outskirts of Leh. As usual in India, traffic is not pleasant.
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Cycling through downtown Leh. The Monastery and fort on their mountain.
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Streets of Leh.
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Western tourist essential items: baked goods and toilet paper.
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Today's ride: 20 km (12 miles)
Total: 18,170 km (11,284 miles)

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