July 17, 2016
To Jelondy: to a Soviet sanatorium
“Sit down, sit down” one of the two boys shouts, as Rachel cycles by. She thinks, “that’s a new one, haven’t heard sit down before, he must be the troublemaker in English class.” We are almost to Jelondy and a storm is chasing us, we have had a few raindrops and briefly some sleet.
We packed up early. The sky is hazy again this morning, it looks ominous like a storm is brewing, but it is probably just dust in the air. We follow the Gunt River higher and higher. In several locations there are suspension bridges built over the raging water, with the deck being nothing but woven sticks. You fall in you die. This area must get cloud burst regularly, at several of the side stream there are remnants of mudflows that came down the side canyons and dammed up the river. We see several signs of an “early warning system” which might be for this reason.
The cyclist we met at the Pamir Lodge have been right so far: we are having a nice tailwind blow us along. Today though there are also two major thunderstorms that chase us up the valley. We get a little rain out of one, the other seems to veer north and miss us completely. Later in the afternoon, when we are already settled into the sanatorium hotel another huge storm coming from the opposite direction wallops Jelondy.
We can see the town in the distance and to the right up a side road another set of buildings. We continue on into the town only to find out the hotel and hot springs is back to the side road and across the river.
To call this a hotel is a bit of stretch. The main building looks nice from the front, a new cladding has been added to make it look modern. However, behind the cladding is a dilapidated building that must have been the at one time. The compound is surrounded by a wall, with another large building under construction though doesn’t look like it is being completed. We are given a room in the “annex”, a couple of metal buildings finished with vinyl laminate wall coverings. We have lunch in the cafe of fried eggs, bread and tea.
Patrick braves the hot springs where men and women are segregated….because everyone is buck naked. When Rachel checks the women’s side out there are about thirty women crowding the place. She goes back later in the afternoon when there is only a couple of women. The hot pool is not very inviting. One shower that is functioning is being used, the second one has only hot water. And it is hot! So under a trickle, Rachel sponges off.
The restaurant is crowded at dinnertime, women are wrapped in robes. Dinner is the usual soup with cabbage, potato and a couple of chunks of stew meat, eating with chunks of white bread. Not bad.
Today's ride: 64 km (40 miles)
Total: 19,241 km (11,949 miles)
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