Week 109: to Bolombolo: along the Cauca River - Racpat RTW 2015-2017 - CycleBlaze

April 26, 2017

Week 109: to Bolombolo: along the Cauca River

"Are we going to be able to pass up a subway?" Patrick says as we ride into La Pintada. Just before La Pintada we are surprised by a "Subway" sign. And even more surprised that it exists! It is too early to eat, but the restaurant is open and we carry off two Italian sandwiches for later. Just a little more appetizing than our mortadella and cheese sandwiches.

It rains quite a bit during the night. In the morning it is still raining lightly and better yet: it is cool. We have our alarm set for 5:20 and are on the road at 6:00, just when it gets light enough to be seen. The road continues to follow the Cauca River downstream, but there are many ups and downs that make us work for it. At about 30 kilometers from La Feliza we crest what is the tallest climb of today. At the summit is a nice looking Hostal, had we known about it we might have continued here today. We stop for a cup of coffee and eat the pastries we carried from Santa Rosa.

The main road continues here in La Pintada up the mountains to Medellin. We have decided to follow the Cauca River for two more days to Santa Fe de Antioquai. It is very nice cycling, even though there is a lot of road construction going on. The road is shaded by nice old trees, but sadly it looks like many of these will have to go for the road widening and straightening project that is going on. We enjoy the ride even though it is hard and getting hotter as the day progresses.

At Cauca Viejo, we stop for another cold drink. There is a nice looking hostel with a swimming pool across the street. There is another junction and opportunity to turn toward Medellin, and a man keeps talking to us waving us in that direction. We want to see the rest of the Cauca Valley and the colonial town of Santa Fe.

When we reach Bolomombolo, we are surprised there is nothing along the main road, all of the town is located across the river. We cross the bridge and head through town. When we ask we are told the hotel with the piscina (swimming pool) is on the other side of town. Other cyclists have stayed here and liked it, that is good enough for us. We wish they would have told us about the driveway though: it is very steep down. It will take some pushing to get out of here tomorrow morning.

For now though we are set: the rooms are decent and clean. After a cold shower we take a nice swim and enjoy a beer. Even though there is a restaurant here it does not seem to be dinner today so we walk back to town for a fried chicken almuerzo (what else?).

Bridge across the Rio Cauca at La Feliza. The town itself seems to be on the other side, but restaurants and hospedajes are on this side along the main road.
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Green hillsides and estancia's across the river.
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We take a break at "Hostal Pipinta", on the top of the largest hill today (see graph). It seems like a very nice place to spend the night, the Hotel has nice views over the canyon here, there is a restaurant, swimming pool and nice gardens. We don't know the price, but had we known about this place we probably would have kept going yesterday.
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View over the Pipinta Canyon.
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Flowers in Hostal Pipinta gardens.
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Truck wash place. The water comes from a hose that is run uphill in a nearby stream. It creates some good pressure to clean the mud, oil and whatever off the trucks and wash it all down into the river.
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We cannot believe our eyes when we come upon this sign.
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A ranchero coming down the road.
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And there it is! It really exists. We get two subs of they day to eat later. It is a bit more expensive than what it would cost at home and we wonder what would make Colombians spent their money at a place like this. We love it though!
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The road along the Cauca River after Pintada is narrower and has less traffic. There is a major road widening and straightening-out project going on though. There are many places where traffic is stopped and alternated on single-lane stretches.
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Roadworkers cutting down trees for the road widening project.
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Iguana sign.
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View down the Cauca River.
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Nice scenery along the way. We have missed the quiet cycling on the too busy Pan America.
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Beautiful trees creating a shady tunnel for our road. This just won't be the same once the road is widened.
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We find the Posada La Porra in Bolombolo. We think it must have changed names since Wendy and Alan Baird stayed here in 2013. To find it you must cross the bridge and ride uphill through town. About a kilometer from the bridge on your left is a steep driveway down. The pool and a cold beer makes it all worthwhile. And yes, we are given swimming caps to wear.
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Today's ride: 95 km (59 miles)
Total: 30,986 km (19,242 miles)

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