Prelude: Dreaming of spring |
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| There’s no place like home |
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| Some progress to report |
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| Re-tired |
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| Chinook Landing |
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| Moving day no. 1 |
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| Moving day no. 2 |
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| Now here’s my plan |
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| Giro di Mezzogiorno, take one |
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| Elk Rock Island |
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| The Year of the Pig |
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| The Kingdom of the Two Sicilies |
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| The Nelson House |
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| Over the hump |
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| So why were there two Sicilies? |
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| Rocky Butte |
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| On the Calends of March |
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| Mount Tabor |
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| Old Town |
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| Willamette Bluff |
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| Cathedral Park |
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| In Northwest Portland |
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| Leif Erickson Drive |
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| First day of spring |
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| Odds and ends |
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In Sicily |
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| A brief preview |
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| False start |
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| Departure |
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| Concerning JFK International Airport |
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| Here’s why we worry |
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| In Palermo |
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| Castellamare del Golfo |
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| Day ride/hike: Zingaro Nature Reserve |
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| Trapani |
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| Day ride: Monte Erice |
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| Marsala |
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| Day ride: east of Marsala |
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| Agrigento |
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| Scala dei Turchi (the Turkish Steps) |
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| To Licata: the Valley of the Temples, and a slight mishap |
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| To Gela, after another mishap |
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| To Caltagirone, and a mail delivery |
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| In Caltagirone: a photo gallery |
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| To Scicli |
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| Scicli: the most beautiful city in the world? |
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| To Noto |
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| Day ride: north of Noto |
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| Day ride: Noto Antica |
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| To Syracuse |
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| In Syracuse: Rest & Recovery |
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| Palazzolo Acreide: into the icebox |
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| Grammichele |
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| Piazza Armerina: a very Good Friday |
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| In Piazza Armerina: the Good Friday procession |
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| Easter break |
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| To Caltanissetta |
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| In Caltanissetta: Easter Sunday |
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24 |
| To Petralia Sottana: pushing our luck again |
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| To Cefalu |
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| In Cefalu: day ride in the Madonie |
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| In Cefalu: the Cathedral |
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| In Cefalu: the Rocca |
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| Sant Agata di Militello |
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| Randazzo |
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| In Randazzo: a photo gallery |
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| To Taormina |
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| Taormina: we love it to death |
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On the Mainland |
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| Looking back, looking ahead |
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| Scilla: To Calabria, and beyond! |
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| To Tropea |
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| Stromboli |
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| Day ride from Tropea |
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| To Amantea |
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| In Amantea: waiting out the rain |
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| To Diamante: surviving a series of fiascos |
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| In Diamante: a photo gallery |
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| Morano Calabro: into Pollino National Park |
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| In Morano Calabro: a photo gallery |
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| In Morano Calabro: loop ride to Mormanno |
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| Lights out in Basilicata |
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| Viggianello |
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| Terranova di Pollino |
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| Roseto Capo Spulico |
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| Rocca Imperiale |
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| In Rocca Imperiale: day hike |
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| Bernalda |
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| Matera |
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| In Matera: a photo gallery |
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| Taranto: on to Puglia |
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| Porto Cesareo: a karmic encounter |
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| Santa Maria di Leuca: To land’s end |
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| Otranto |
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| In Otranto: an off day |
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| Lecce |
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| The Otranto Cathedral: a photo gallery |
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| In Lecce: loop ride |
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| Ostuni |
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| Polignano a Mare |
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| Altamura |
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| In Altamura: odds and ends |
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| Trani |
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| Manfredonia |
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| Vieste: in Gargano National Park |
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| In Vieste: Day ride to Foresta Umbra |
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| Disc brake problem (Updated) |
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| Peschici |
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| To Lesina |
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| In Lesina: Republic Day |
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| Foggia |
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| Venosa |
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| Vietri sul Mare: via Potenza |
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| In Vietri: hike to Albori |
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| In Vietri: Amalfi bike & hike |
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| To Maria and Jack’s home, via Paestum |
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| In Castellabate: a ride to the beach |
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| Palinuro |
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| To Maratea |
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| In Maratea: a hike up Monte San Biagio |
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| In Maratea: a photo gallery |
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| To Diamante, and the train to Scilla |
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Last Orders |
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| Looking back at the mainland |
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| Return to Palermo |
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| A pause for a brief announcement |
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| Monreale Cathedral |
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| Monte Pellegrino |
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| Closing the book |
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| Through the two kingdoms: the actual route |
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