Monreale Cathedral

June 15, 2019

Well, so I was wrong. I did wake up back home in Portland and turn to the journal first thing. I’ve been bolt awake ever since five, so I might as well get this thing over with and close the book.

Iread a curious feature article in the NYT last week, about people who have spent their lives going to see the same play or musical many times - fifty viewings of Rent or Phantom of the Opera, for example. Pretty extreme, but I can relate. As an adolescent, I got a crush on Marian the Librarian one summer and watched the Music Man about seven times in a week; and I think I would always be thrilled by Alvin Ailey’s Revelations, which Rachael and I have seen three times now. Perhaps it’s a genetic trait - my sister Elizabeth must have seen the Nutcracker thirty times by now, usually with my mother.

This came to mind as Rachael and I were staring up in awe at the incomparable mosaics of Monreale Cathedral Saturday morning. This is our second time viewing this magnificent cathedral, which at the time we agreed was the most moving of all the spectacular religious structures we’ve seen in all of our travels through Europe. It felt that way this time as well. I thought it might be a bit of a letdown seeing it again, and so relatively soon - it’s only been three years, after all. I think I would react as strongly seeing it a third time, or a fourth, or a fortieth. For me, it’s almost reason enough all by itself to come back to Sicily.

First though, we have to get there. Monreale is practically a suburb of Palermo, only about six miles away, but if you’re traveling by bike it’s a bit of work - Monreale is a thousand feet above the city, so there’s some steady climbing ahead. And if you’ve been biking for almost three months already, and it’s hot and humid and the traffic is complicated, it’s natural that your mind will drift off and think of home.

As I said before, if you only watch two videos from this journal, make this the second one. There’s the unique sound track of course (though Rachael is no Singing Cowgirl and not in competition with Mr Grumby here); but there’s also the horse. The horse was incredible - he’s galloping so fiercely up the road that he left a trail of hoofmarks in the pavement in his wake.

If you didn’t follow our first tour of Sicily or you’ve forgotten about it by now, you might go back and read about Our first visit to Monreale. Just because I would be happy to see this cathedral many times doesn’t mean I want to write about it many times. I’m not going to say anything more about it here other than to show you some photos to tempt you to come yourself - for the most part, of different subjects than we posted last time. And if we ever do come back a third time, we’ll pick something else to show, and hopefully make it to the cloisters - I can’t believe we failed to get to them either time. Yes, we have to come back some year.

On our first visit to Monreale we stayed in town and were there right as it was opened. We were virtually the only visitors at first, and were overwhelmed. This time we arrived a half hour later, and had some company.

Christ the Pantacrator. Wherever you’re standing it feels like he’s staring your way.

Image not found :( — The walls of interior are completely covered by mosaics on a gold leaf background. The top two tell the story of the creation from the Old Testament, and the lowest is the story of Christ. Every panel is a beautiful work of art in its own right. The more you drill down, the more that there is to see. You can just keep gazing until your neck can’t take any more.

A rueful Eve, cast out of the garden and put to work.

Lot’s wife looks back at Sodom and Gomorrah and is turned into a pillar of salt

The mosaics of the apse’s exterior are like facades. I stared for quite a while and saw no two alike.

We spent a couple of hours at the cathedral, staying until the morning’s opening period was nearly over (if you come, carefully check the opening hours so you won’t leave disappointed). With more time and energy, we would have stayed longer and visited the cloisters; or we could have biked further uphill and into the interior, following the larger loop we had optimistically mapped out the night before. but it’s hot, and as the lady was just saying we’re tired and want to go home. We’d had enough so we just coasted back down the hill to find lunch and head back to the room for the afternoon.

Palermo again. It is ringed on three sides by mountains, and opens to the sea on the north (left in this photo).

There’s one more thing to remember about the day though - dinner with our new friends Zach and Helene, who were seated next to us in the small restaurant we gravitated to. We had an excellent meal, but actually didn’t notice it as much as we might have otherwise because the company was so compelling. On their first visit to the island, the two are an inspiring and interesting couple. We found much to talk about and were sorry when the time came to give up our table for someone else. A great way to end another memorable day.

Helene, looking surprisingly fresh for someone who just flew in from Brooklyn a few hours ago.

Ride stats today: 16 miles, 1,000’; for the tour: 2,391 miles, 150,600’

Today's ride: 16 miles (26 km)
Total: 2,433 miles (3,916 km)

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Suzanne GibsonThe videos certainly give an insight into riding in Palermo - and your mood at that point! Perfect sound track, too! Glad you got home safely!
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4 years ago

Jen RahnThat first video is brilliant! What a perfect solution to fatigue and scary traffic congestion ... Sing!!

I vote for a Rachael/Mr. Grumby duet at the next HA gathering.

And to catch on video being passed by a galloping horse??!! That may be a 1-time event for all bike blog videos.

Please tell me this isn't the last post.
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4 years ago

Scott AndersonTo Jen RahnOK. This isn’t the last post.
Great idea for the next HAC meet-up! And yes, the horse was a real stroke of luck. I think Rachael had just awakened the camera seconds before.
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4 years ago

Sue PriceWell, that was a great song, I've gotta say! I can't imagine having the breath to talk, let alone sing, while climbing like that!
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4 years ago

Rachael AndersonThanks for your wonderful comment. I never sing Accept while I’m by myself but it did help distract me from the traffic. You’re right it wasn’t easy singing while climbing as attested by my heavy breathing but I had to finish the story.
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4 years ago

Rachael AndersonTo Jen RahnThanks for your great comments about the video although I’m definitely not in the same league as Ron. I don’t even know why I started to sing. But it did help with dealing with the traffic. Thanks for all your great comments! They made my day. You are very witty.
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4 years ago