In Morano Calabro: loop ride to Mormanno - In the Kingdom of the Two Sicilies - CycleBlaze

May 8, 2019

In Morano Calabro: loop ride to Mormanno

After yesterday’s challenging climb up from the coast, we were happy to spend the morning on a walking tour of the town and on a shorter bike ride in the afternoon.  For our ride, we largely backtracked our way in to town yesterday, by climbing 1,300’ back up to the final tunnel before dropping into this valley; and then exploring back roads to Mormonna before returning to Morano Calabro the same way we arrived yesterday.

This sounds odd, but if you look at the map you’ll see that there aren’t many ways into this town - especially if you want to remain in the National Park, as we did.  This is because of the towering wall the Pollino Mountains form immediately north of town.  I hadn’t thought of it yesterday but they’re remarkably prominent, rising a vertical mile above the valley floor.  So, you don’t go through them - you go around them.

When we leave here tomorrow for Viggianello, we’ll follow the same route out of town, back up through the tunnel again.  Four passes through the same stretch of road, which fortunately is easy to take because it’s jaw droppingly stunning.  It was like a different ride coming down today, with the mountains radiant in the sun instead of shaded by the overcast sky.  Sadly, no stampede of wild boar today, but we’ll be in the park for another five days so there’s always hope.  

Looking back toward Morano Calabro. We saw this viewpoint yesterday, but it looks different in the sun. Aren’t these peaked hills interesting? This country reminds me of the Balkans.
Heart 5 Comment 0
Yellow gentian? I think this might be the source for the grappa Roberto offered up as a nightcap.
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Bill ShaneyfeltMaybe yellow asphodel?

https://www.first-nature.com/flowers/asphodeline-lutea.php
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4 years ago
Scott AndersonOh! That does look likely. I didn’t know it came in yellow. Beautiful plant. I had yellow gentian on my mind because Roberto was showing me photos of it, but it didn’t seem quite right.
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4 years ago
Over the top! Not a bad climb today with our unloaded bikes, but tomorrow will be a different story.
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This country makes for really spectacular cycling. There are many well paved back roads like this, alternating relaxed miles with agonizingly steep pitches. A fine balance.
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Living in a small slice of paradise.
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Mormanno, our turnaround point, lies below us. Looks like an easy ride gliding down there, but looks are deceptive.
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This is only half the picture I hoped for. He has a buddy, a puppy that looks part chocolate lab; but by the time I got positioned to where I could get them both in the frame he shuffled off.
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So here’s one of those agonizing stretches I mentioned before. Rachael hollers up to me that I’m fired as a route planner, but I tell her to save her breath.
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Well, fine. If she can walk, I can too.
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Andrea BrownI remember Jocelyn Rice (of ‘Father/daughter around the world’ fame) saying that there is no shame in walking, you’re just using a different muscle group.
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4 years ago
Scott AndersonTo Andrea BrownThat’s really true. It’s quite a liberating perspective.
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4 years ago
In Mormanno
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In Mormanno
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In Mormanno
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In Mormanno
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In Mormanno. I love the brickwork on this fine old building, now the police station.
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In Mormanno
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This is pretty amazing. It’s a log mountain, built from what looks like about a million peeler cores.
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So many shades of green!
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And back again. It’s almost shocking seeing these mountains in the sun, they’re so colorful.
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Wild boar! I’d love to see that, squeals the GBO. We can’t promise to see that again of course, but we offer to take him out for a look at some spring snow in the mountains. I’m in! Let’s go!
Heart 1 Comment 2
Andrea BrownSome people have an adorable stuffed animal as their mascot, but you guys have a bottle opener. I love that so much.
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4 years ago
Scott AndersonTo Andrea BrownIt really works quite well for us. Light, compact, low maintenance and even occasionally useful. He earns his keep.
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4 years ago
The awesome wall of the Pollino Mountains rises a vertical mile above the valley floor.
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Ride stats today: 34 miles, 3,800’ elevation gain; for the tour, 1,275 miles, 90,800’

Today's ride: 34 miles (55 km)
Total: 1,275 miles (2,052 km)

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