WBefore the memory fades, we want to reflect on the unique cathedral in Otranto. There are many reasons to stitch Otranto into your future plans, especially if you’re visiting by bicycle - but a chance to see this wonderful church is very high on the list. I can’t believe looking back now that we didn’t visit it on our first visit to the town.
There are so many cathedrals and fine churches in Western Europe, and it’s easy to get a bit jaded about them. Every significant town or city you come to has one or more fine religious structures worth visiting, many with an interesting and complex history and all just a bit different. When you’ve seen many of them, it’s easy to take a pass and just focus on other local highlights or the restaurant crawl. And Otranto has plenty to catch your eye, alright. But if you come here, don’t miss the cathedral.
The cathedral was consecrated in 1088, and reflects a composite of Byzantine, early Christian and Romanesque elements. There are a few surviving Byzantine frescoes from the early years of the church, but most of these were destroyed by an Ottoman occupation following the conquest of Otranto in the fifteenth century, when the cathedral was converted to a mosque or stables. There is an impressive ossuary, a beautiful and unique ceiling, a striking facade.
The most arresting feature though is surely the immense mosaic which covers the entire floor of the nave, choir and apse. We discussed this with an Italian couple, who stated that as far as they knew this was the largest church mosaic in the world. Created in roughly 1165, almost a century after the church was consecrated, it’s an astonishing work of art that combines Old Testament themes with medieval bestiaries, and illustrates the story of man from the Fall through salvation. I’ve included a few photos to give you the idea, but here is a much more comprehensive and detailed article. Don’t fail to see it in person if you’re in the region.
Here’s why you want to come to sites like this early in the day. We had the place nearly to ourselves, and are leaving just as the first tour group arrives.
