To Noto

April 12, 2019

We have prefect conditions for a traveling day: a balmy day with no chance of rain lies ahead, and a strong west wind promises to ease the miles. After enjoying a leisurely morning of home-brewed espresso, home scrambled eggs and cold cereal, we leave our apartment in Scicli about 9:30. First up: a modest climb out of town, giving us a nice view back as we leave The Most Beautiful City in the World.

A few miles later we crest the ridge, and begin the long descent to the sea. Our work for the day is nearly done, and it’s just gone 10. We won’t face a climb more severe than a highway overpass for nearly 40 miles, until we approach Noto at the end of the ride. Our descent to the sea is fast but windy, as we’re blown sideways by the west wind.

Five miles later, the sea comes into view.

Here’s a brilliant stroke of luck to start the day off right: while I’m focusing the camera on another dazzling floral explosion, this guy swoops into the frame and perches on a snag.

At the coast, we picked up the marked cycleroute to Syracuse. Finding it well marked and interesting, we scrap our premapped plan and instead follow the marked route east to Pachino.

There is a marked cycle route that follows the southern coastline all the way from Trapani to Syracuse.

The route mostly follows minor roads, but at times it’s like this.

Or like this. The long, flat beach on this part of the coast is sandy, with a consistency like white sugar. Even on the paved stretches there were spots where sand drifts covered the shoulder and pushed us out into the traffic lane.

Or like this. It looks like this tree has been down for quite a while - long enough for a walkaround to get established.

The route is well posted. Nevertheless, it was surprising to be steered out to sea at this point.

We were sceptical, but a woman sitting by the beach encouraged us to go on and assured us it was the route. Hard packed, smooth, just fine. A bit of an adventure to start the day.

Not quite as easy at the other end though, pushing up this rise through the soft sand.

This part of the trail was lined with these colorful golden trees, a species I don’t recall seeing before.

It’s a yellow acacia. It was hard to get a well focused shot of its delicate pompom blossoms, but you’ll get the idea.

It’s surprising how little time we’ve spent by the sea here in Sicily. This is the only spot so far where there’s been a seaside road quiet enough that you can enjoy it.

We were puzzled by this derelict when we first saw it in the distance. It almost has the look of a ruin d Greek temple.

This is Fornace Penna, the ruins of a brick factory from the early 1900’s, intended for shipping bricks around the Mediterranean. It lasted only ten years before being destroyed by arson.

The ruined factory is another spot on the Montalbano circuit. It is featured in several episodes of the TV series.

Fornace Penna is a very evocative sight, standing isolated on a point visible from miles away. It reminds me of the ruined abbeys in the British Borderlands.

There are some beautiful sandy beaches along the coast here, but this early in the season they’re nearly deserted. I think we’re in Pozzalo here.

Another beautiful bit of coastline. The ride for about fifteen miles here was really exquisite as we were blown eastward along the sea by a 15 mph tailwind.

In Pachino we stopped for lunch, pulling up at a small cafe for a pair of involtini and a Moretti. After that we dropped back down to the sea for a few more miles before finally turning inland just past the marina at Marzamemi. Soon afterwards we were on the highway, working our way inland and upwards to Noto.

Noto is probably the best known and most visited of the Sicilian Baroque towns, so we look forward to another gallery of spectacular sights. We’ll be here for three nights, staying at an Airbnb just outside the historical center.