We’re staying in Tropea for three nights in a tiny apartment that neither of us likes much, partly because we wanted more time to explore the well regarded town and partly to use it as the springboard for one of Rachael’s must-see destinations on the tour: Stromboli, one of the most active volcanoes on earth.
So what’s with Rachael and volcanoes, you’re probably asking yourself about now. Wasn’t it enough that we got to see Kilauea up close last year, just months before its shattering eruption? Does she just like to tempt fate? Darned if I know either, but it’s her 60th birthday tour. If she says we’re going to Stromboli, we’re going to Stromboli.
You’re familiar with this small volcanic island by now, after seeing it on the horizon far out at sea in the past few posts. It’s far enough out there that it takes some work to get to. There are a few options. Probably the primary one is to take the ferry there from Milazzo on Sicily, or from Messina. After many discussions about the best fit for our itinerary though, we selected Tropea. You can get there from Tropea by an island-hopping ferry that stops at all the other Aeolian Islands, and stay on Stromboli overnight if you want to get a decent view. Or, you can sign up for a tour. We decided on the sunset tour, so that we could see the island after dark and maybe see the sparks fly.
Today’s the day. And, at this time of year, it’s the only day. The sunset tour starts running in May, and only runs on Thursdays. We figured this out just in time about two weeks ago, and had to reshuffle our itinerary a bit to make it here on the right day. It’s billed as a sunset tour, but it’s nearly an all day affair. The ferry leaves at 1:30 (theoretically), takes about 90 minutes for the crossing to Stromboli, and then dumps you on the island for three and a half hours to explore on your own. After that you return to the boat for a sunset cruise along the base of the island, and then steam back to the mainland, arriving back in Tropea at about 10:30.
We had a leisurely morning, working through various frustrations with our apartment and then taking an early lunch before walking down to the port. Tropea really is a pretty amazing place, but you’ll have to wait another day to see more of it. Today is all about Stromboli.
We arrived at the port just after one, to be sure of arriving in plenty of time for the 1:30 departure. We waited with about seventy other people until nearly 1:30, when the plank came down, we all boarded, selected fine seats on the top deck in the sun, and minutes later the engine started up. While we were waiting I revealed to Rachael that I had forgotten the zoom camera, after having specifically recharged its battery last night. It’s still back in the room plugged into the wall. Rachael did not think this was funny, and wants to know why I don’t keep a check-off list for days like this.
A fairly small crowd waits to board. The ferry has a capacity for 300, but it’s mostly empty this early in the season. A good time to come.
We sit on deck for a full hour, with the engine running the whole time. Departure is not until 2:30. While we wait, two large groups arrive on tour busses and pile on the ship. Who knows what is behind this, but it’s annoying to pointlessly sit on the deck all this time, thinking about the fact that there was plenty of time to go back to the room and get the zoom camera had we only known.
At 2:30 precisely, we pull out of port. The ride to Stromboli takes an hour and a half, but it’s great. We get views back at Tropea dramatically and colorfully draped across the top of its cliff, and then watch Stromboli slowly grow larger and gain more detail as we close in on it.
Tropea has a stunning look seen from offshore. Those cliffs below town are about 200 feet high.
Stromboli is an active volcano, Which you perhaps knew already. You may not have known how it’s pronounced though: the accent is on the first syllable.
We arrived on the island at 4:15, and were discharged with the instructions to return in time for a 7:45 departure. We didn’t have a real plan for what to do with our time, so we just started walking. There is a pretty natural four mile loop through the only really developed part of the island - walk up one street to the end of the street grid, and walk back the other. The loop ends at the start of the hiking trail to an observation point higher on the flank of the volcano, so you can continue up that trail for as long as time allows.
We found Stromboli to be a great place to visit, and had no difficulty filling our time. We would have been happy to stay overnight, if we could have made the logistics work out for us. It’s one of those places where tourism spikes when the ships are in, and I imagine it’s very quiet and seductive later in the evening and in the morning.
I imagine that Stromboli’s economy is primarily based on tourism now, but fishing is obviously still a core industry.
On Via Regina Elena. Stromboli’s small developed sector is very enjoyable to walk through. The lanes are narrow, but there are no cars. Just walkers, bikes, scooters, and motorized carts that look like they function like taxis if you’d rather not get around under your own steam.
There’s plenty do do here for a variety of tastes. You can scramble on the rocks, or lie on the sand, or just amble along and see what you can find interesting.
We’re out of the village now, and on the beginning to the trail to the observation point. We went a ways out along it, but turned back for lack of more time. If we ever come back I’m sure we’d find a way to stay overnight and walk further.
San Bartolomeo Church is pretty on the outside, but the interior is a bit of a mess. It looks like it’s undergoing some serious restoration work, with scaffolding everywhere and canvas sheets above.
We made it back to the vicinity of the port in time for a quick meal, and then headed down to the dock to merge in with the assembled crowd. It was a confusing scene, with boats queued up in the bay waiting for an opening at the pier. Three other ferries docked and absorbed their waiting passengers before ours finally made it in. It all went very fast though - the ramp went down, passengers rushed on, and boats steamed out five minutes later.
The sunset cruise was awesome. All the excitement is on the north side of the island, because the active vent faces northwards. For about a half hour we drifted slowly past the island (along with several other spectator-packed boats) as we all craned upwards, watching for activity. Every so often, a red glow would appear and spike into the sky, followed by a dark smoky cloud; and a bit later by an audible rumble, like thunder after a lightning strike.
We don’t have the best photos of this activity to share though, because 1: I forgot my zoom camera, and you would really want a good zoom to get a decent look at the fireworks; and 2: I also forgot to bring along my spare battery, and my camera died just as the best of the show was about to start. I retrieved a cellphone from Rachael as the only remaining option, at which time she reminded me that it would be good if I kept a check-off list for times like this.
It would be great to follow the trail we were on to its end at the observation point. I think it continues north far enough that you can view the immense lava flow that blankets the north face of the island.
Scott AndersonTo Suzanne GibsonYou’re right, of course. We came back with enough to remind ourselves, but I doubt we’d forget this anyway. Reply to this comment 4 years ago
