To Gruissan

April 3, 2022

In spite of the title, this is mostly a second post about Narbonne. A short story in four acts.

Last night

No big story here but we went out a second time, for a light dinner. We ended up at a creperie next door to the restaurant we ate lunch at yesterday - they’re on a short block facing the waterfront comprised of four restaurants, all looking good.

In addition to the meal though, it’s important that the weather definitely seems to be improving. The sky has cleared, the wind has lessened to something more reasonable. Promising.

The plane trees lining the promenade are striking in the late day sun and shadows. I’ve got a renewed appreciation for these trees after seeing them whip around wildly in the wind in Perpignan. They must be incredibly resilient.

I love this facade. It reminds me of one in Brno we saw twenty years ago, on the day we were thrown off the train at the Poland/Czechia border. Great fun, and a lasting memory.

The palace-museum of the archbishops; or maybe it’s the town hall? These structures and the cathedral are all interconnected. Maybe someday I’ll study the map and sort them out, but for now I’m content to just look up and admire them.

This morning

It’s beautiful but cold here this morning. We’re keeping our room until our noon checkout, but it’s too tempting out to sit there the whole time (for me at least; Rocky’s pretty content to stay inside and keep warm) so I head out for a stroll after it finally warms up to above 40. It’s brilliant - Narbonne is always beautiful, but it’s really so in conditions like these.

Narbonne, another great city for fans of painted shutters.

Pont de Marchands, a historic bridge spanning the canal and providing the foundation for a lane of shops.

The Sunday market is on. It’s just a row of old clothes here, but everything looks better with a plane tree to accent it.

The Anchor Passage (note the large anchor on the right of the arch), between the 13th century Madeleine Tower on the left and the 14th century Saint Martial Tower on the right. It follows the course of the main east-west road through the ancient Roman town.

Image not found :( — The anchor symbolizes the rights granted to the archbishops to collect port and fishing taxes.

An anguished gargoyle overlooks the cloister.

Lunch date!

In today’s third act, we have big news to report. No, it’s not about the purloined suitcases, which UPS has still not wrested from Mme Guillautin’s nefarious clutches. It’s even bigger: we have a new CycleBlaze meetup to report!

I mentioned earlier that Rich and Robin Frasier live about an hour north of here, as sort of a teaser lead-in to today’s main event. They drove down for the day so we could get acquainted in real life (we’ve corresponded often before now) and share lunch together. A great visit, and a great lunch.

And, so Rich and Robin don’t forget, they owe us one. We picked up the tab since they picked up the gas, but Rich promised the next one is on them. We’ll remind them of this when we bike through their home town this autumn.

A couple we recognize from their CycleBlaze journals walking our way, braced against the cold wind.

The long anticipated meeting of the three R’s.

The visit was the main thing but we might as well take a look at this too. Another culinary work of art.

To Gruissan

And in the final act, we’re finally getting around to Gruissan and a bit of biking. It’s barely ten miles to Gruissan, where we’re based for the next two nights. And it’s a very easy ride - virtually flat, following the Robine Canal most of the way. Challenging enough today though, with the cold north wind still assailing us. Fortunately we’re going the right way and it is generally our friend but even with that the ten miles is enough. We are happy to make it to our room by about 4:30, and also pleased to find an open pizzeria only about a block away that opens soon. Later though the pizzeria will disappoint us by being closed after all - it’s amazing how many restaurants have their hours posted inaccurately - but we find a second one open down at the waterfront so the day is saved.

The path south along the Robine Canal seduces you when you leave Narbonne, looking like it’s offering a pleasant paved riding experience.

It’s a ruse though. As soon as you round the first bend the pavement ends and it’s dirt, gravel, ruts and plane tree roots for the next four miles. Much quieter and a few miles shorter than the paved alternative though, and the better choice.

She looks cold - the latest in the ongoing series of images on this theme. Also note the footwork, managing the uneven surface.

Rachael navigates this tricky little section well, which is more than I can say. A rut grabbed my front wheel and held on, and I went down and barked my shin. Woof!

Some information not apparent in this calm image - there’s a frigid 25 mph wind blowing straight up my back while I’m taking it.

back on the pavement, approaching Gruissan.

Gruissan, and a lagoon filled with gulls and a few flamingos.

An unnatural look. It needs more carotene in its diet.

Our host in Gruissan, proudly presenting us with the most prodigious WiFi password we’ve ever been privileged to receive. A new record!

Adrift, by Jasmin Williams

Ride stats today: 10 miles, 100’; for the tour: 378 miles, 21,200’

Today's ride: 10 miles (16 km)
Total: 378 miles (608 km)

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Suzanne GibsonEven a tail wind can be too much at times. Ten kilometers was good planning. Hope the wind calms down soon.
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2 years ago

Scott AndersonTo Suzanne GibsonConditions are definitely improving. It looks like we have some wonderful weather just around the corner.
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2 years ago

Kathleen ClassenI am so happy to hear the weather may improve. I was cold just reading your journal!
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2 years ago