Llança to Figueres

October 20, 2023

A Very Memorable Day

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We woke up to a bright blue sky and sunshine. We had a wonderful breakfast and everything was going well. The Hotel Gri-Mar is terrific if you are coming this way.

The CN gathered the bikes from the bike room and then told me to take my time. A flat. His bike and the rear tire of course. It happened in the best possible spot though, it sure beats the side of the highway in the pouring rain. Still, it was quite a surprise. Neither of us can remember the last time we flatted on tour. I sat, enjoyed the sunshine and made supportive noises and the CN got to work.

For someone who thankfully doesn’t get much practice at this he was very quick.

It was a pesky thorn we think he picked up yesterday when he pulled off the road to take a photo. He found about three others in his tire as well. Just to be sure, we carefully checked my tires for thorns and then we were off.

We had an easy cruise to El Port de la Selva where we toured through the town. A big thank you to Anne and Dave Mathers for pointing us to this beautiful place. We caught the market and added to our picnic supplies and trolled around the town. Another gorgeous spot on the Costa Brava.

Talk about disposable income. This was huge.

From this point on this was to be one of the most memorable days of bike touring we have ever experienced. It was absolutely over the top. Tough too! Keith saw a YouTube video of a ride from Figueres that passed the ancient Monasterio de Sant Pere de Rodes. The scenery in the video was impressive and we can tell you it was even better in real life than we could possibly have anticipated. But, as the CN put it at one point, it was one quad buster of a climb fully loaded and coming from our direction. We pointed the bikes up the hill and we were off. Absolutely zero regrets from either of us, but I will say when you base your route planning on a video by a pro sponsored by Mavic, on a high end road bike, with a camera crew, carrying nothing, and going the easier way, you might want to question your sanity. Despite that I would do it again tomorrow. One of the most spectacular rides we have ever done. Top five for sure. Next time I would stay in delightful El Port de la Selva and leave our gear there and do it as an out and back unloaded. Or do it in the opposite direction like our Mavic pro did. That would be easier. I don’t really think I can describe how great it was though. It certainly was tough and a steep climb. There were a few times I wasn’t sure I could turn the peddles, but I did, and the views were always jaw dropping. We didn’t get any king or queen of the mountain designations, but we both had a personal best at the top! It was just awesome.

The views started immediately and just kept getting better.

We arrived at the monastery feeling rather epic. We didn’t have time to tour the place as a late start (remember that flat tire) and dawdling around Port de la Selva plus a steep climb meant we weren’t there until 3 PM. It didn’t really matter as we could see quite a bit from the outside and the entry and we had a big descent to look forward to.

We felt this was very well placed at the top. Fortunately we didn’t need it.

We always marvel at how these were built back in the day.

We even did a bit of hiking to get this shot.

We decided not to hike up to this little church. Incidentally we were passed by virtually no cars. These must have come from the Figueres direction.

The descent was fabulous too. The whole ride was just as presented in that video. Vineyards, olive groves, quiet country road, long grasses on either side, views, I could go on. We explored Peralada on our way through and then boom, we were in Figueres which hasn’t won me over. We will see in the morning. We have tickets for the Salvador Dalí Museum and then are hot footing it out of town.

This cat was in Peralada It must know it has nine lives.

Many times on the climb today I marvelled at our good fortune. That we are able to travel, that our bodies still cooperate, that we can experience these things. Today was such a memorable day. Imagine one of those riding days when you keep looking at each other and exclaiming OMG! Also imagine the size of the beer we have rewarded ourselves with tonight.

Here is the Relive:

https://www.relive.cc/view/vPOprw45kRq

In case you are interested, here it is, opposite direction to us.

Today's ride: 48 km (30 miles)
Total: 1,441 km (895 miles)

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Comment on this entry	Comment	6

Scott AndersonIsn’t this the most spectacular country though? If you ever make it back you should head east out the south side of the peninsula to Cadaques. It’s mind-blowing in that direction too.
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6 months ago

Anne MathersEpic day! One for the sweet memory banks, for sure. We're the cows hanging around near the summit?
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6 months ago

Keith ClassenTo Anne MathersNo cows … darn!
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6 months ago

Keith ClassenTo Scott AndersonWe cheated. We took the ferry from Roses to Cadaques. The views were pretty good from the water.
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6 months ago

Kathleen ClassenTo Anne MathersI can’t wait to see you and fully describe it. It was soooo amazing. And a big thanks again for the Port de la Selva recommendation.
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6 months ago

Rich FrasierHoly Tamale!! You guys are amazing! I've been up to Sant Pere de Rodes in a car, but it would never have occurred to me to ride up there, especially from the Mediteranean side and on a loaded touring bike.

Nice going and congratulations! It's a beautiful place and you had great weather, too.
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6 months ago