Canet en Roussillion to Llança

October 19, 2023

Wind, Hills, Scenery

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What a day! Windy as all get out, eye popping scenery and lots of hills. It was quite an experience.

We started of course, with breakfast and the final decision was made about coast or interior. There were wind warnings everywhere around us, but the coast seemed like it would stay dry. The coastal route was on.

The morning was easy breezy. Bike paths, flat and beautiful, even with a headwind. The wind wasn’t too bad at this point, it really decided to put on a show later in the day. We cruised happily along, Med on the left, and it was great. We had come this way in the opposite direction but as always, things look completely different in the other direction. I had the thought that with the mountains as a backdrop this might be the preferred direction.

The weather was perfect for bike touring today. Not too hot or cold, just right.

Massive developments in this area. Most are deserted this time of year, second homes we suppose.

No Route Barrée sign here which lured us into an area that was completely fenced off and work was actually taking place.

So much money tied up in boats that are, well, tied up.

A couple of beauties ready to join the club.

Keith tried to create a little drama here by riding into this hole, cleverly disguised by leaves. He has the reflexes of a cat, I swear, and managed to stay on his feet.

We came across this cute little guy trail side. Completely unconcerned with our presence. Keith tried to convince me it was a giant French rat, but I wasn’t buying it. But what is it?

When we arrived at Collioure we cruised into town down the same cliff we rode out on. Going down it struck me as quite astonishing that I made it up. We made a quick stop to enhance our future picnic at a spot we had discovered on our way through the first time. Such nice people.

I asked for two of one item to eat immediately and she added a third, no charge because my husband is a big guy.

When in Collioure this is a great casual spot for lunch.

The climbing really began there. The road was excellent with a wide shoulder and the views were tremendous. We climbed up out of town on the lightly travelled highway. We suspect it is much busier in high season. Then we dropped back to sea level at Port-Vendres where we had our lunch. The wind had been notable and an headwind all morning, but here it really kicked up a notch. Things were blowing over, and the gusts were tremendous. I had the thought that things were going to get interesting. Our weather app said gusts to 67 kph. It certainly felt like it.

Park your bikes next to a cannon. That isn’t going to get blown away.

Up we went again, and the wind was really making its presence felt. The cars were very respectful though and it was such a beautiful climb.

Things started to get really dramatic in terms of scenery. The wind was really blowing as well, but with the terrain and the switchbacks it was alright. There were a few times going uphill we thought we might come to a standstill, but really, it was okay.

The Sorbonne has a maritime research centre here.

Then up we went, out of town. Look at that scenery.

I was hanging on so as not to be blown away here and I mean that. It was howling.

No easy breezy beach riding with this terrain.

Then of course, we went back down. And up and repeat. 847 m of climbing altogether.

We crossed into Spain through the old border.

In Port Bao Spain we could see tunnels ahead. The young woman in the bar assured us they were fine for bikes and said the old road bypassing them was, and I quote, “sh#%”. Alright then, tunnels it will be, three of them all together. Two were very short and the third just shy of half a km. Well lit, good shoulder and little traffic. We popped out the other side of the final long one and the view was stunning. No pictures though. We were getting focused on finishing the ride.

Komoot wanted to send us up there. I don’t think so!

We are in Llança and have had a great dinner at our hotel. This post needs some cleaning up but that will have to wait. It is bedtime. It was a fantastic day. The wind is really blowing out there. We are snug and happy.

On our balcony immediately after check in. The reward for a great ride.

Here is the Relive: https://www.relive.cc/view/vPv4RpD7LR6

Today's ride: 67 km (42 miles)
Total: 1,393 km (865 miles)

Rate this entry's writing	Heart	12
Comment on this entry	Comment	9

Steve Miller/GrampiesThe wind was blowing inland also. We were glad that our day, being only 25 km, ended at midday. The wind picked up even more after that.
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6 months ago

David MathersThanks for checking out the coastal route and showing us that it is rideable, even with a killer wind 💨 I don’t want your journal to end but look forward to hearing more from you when you return home 🏡
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6 months ago

Keith ClassenTo David MathersI would suspect the traffic would get very busy in the summer. The road has a good shoulder. Look forward to getting together at home.
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6 months ago

Kathleen ClassenTo Steve Miller/GrampiesSame same. It was an okay wind until lunch and then it was a bit crazy.
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6 months ago

Rich FrasierI was going to suggest this route when you were debating which way to cross into Spain. I didn't know what variables were most important to you, so I abstained. But I think you chose well.

The Col de Banyuls is a nicer ride, but you had already done that in the other direction and the climb from Banyuls, as you've noted, is pretty dang steep. You can go inland but unless you're prepared to go quite a ways, it's tough. The route up from Ceret (that the Grampies just did) is super-steep. I would recommend crossing at Coustouges as the most reasonable and closest pass. But that's a long ways inland and you're still going to climb. A lot.

I rode the same route as you, along the Med, in June and the traffic wasn't too bad then, either. I wouldn't try it in high season (July/August), but your experience mirrors mine.

One point for others who go this way. I didn't go through the tunnels. I rode the roads over the top and the surfaces seemed fine to me. I was on an unloaded road bike with skinny tires.
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6 months ago

Keith ClassenTo Rich FrasierHi Rich - we always welcome your opinion. Local knowledge is hard to beat. We decided last night to go up the coast as far as El Port de la Selva and then over Sant Pere de Rodes on our way to Figueres. We were intrigued after watching a utube video produced by a roadie riding this route. So we pieced the first half of his ride from Figueres to El Port de la Selva and did it in reverse. We heard from our friend Dave Mathers that El Port de la Selva was worth a visit and I would agree. It was a challenging climb being fully loaded but well worth it. The weather was perfect. We are now chilling in Figueres.
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6 months ago

Kathleen ClassenTo Rich FrasierKathleen here. About those tunnels, they were easy…I was passed by exactly one car in the long one, but the road would have been more beautiful. I was stunned when I came out the other side at the view. I have made a note that route planning by sweet twenty something bar staff with multiple tattoos, piercings and little English is to be taken with a grain of salt. She was a real sweetheart though. She even added ice to my water bottle!
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6 months ago

Jacquie GaudetHmmm. I might modify the plan for next year to go along the coast here…
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6 months ago

Kathleen ClassenTo Jacquie GaudetIt was simply beautiful. I think you would love it. El Port de la Selva isn’t big but it was great. A perfect spot for an unloaded day ride up to the monastery.
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6 months ago