A walk on Pesaro Beach

October 16, 2020

Oh, fine. Another town I’d never really heard of before that looks like it would be a brilliant place to live. If we ever decide to pull up stakes and move to Europe (which should be pretty easy since we have so few stakes in the ground now anyway), we’ve got some decisions to make. Split? Malaga? Lagos? Ceret? Pesaro? Today at least, myopic folks that we are, Pesaro would probably get the nod. On the way back to our room yesterday we stopped to stare at the listings in the real estate window.

Pesaro, a small city with a population of about 90,000, is known for several distinctive features. First, it’s a city of culture. It’s the birthplace of Rossini, and it stages a Rossini opera festival that goes back 40 years. My sister Elizabeth would love this.

Rossini was born here, in the heart of the old city. We’re staying in the very nice Rossini B&B, just a few blocks from here.

It is probably better known for its beach though - a nearly ruler straight seven mile long sandy beach perfect for long, lazy strolls beside the sea. It’s very quiet now, but based on the number of hotels and bathhouses lining the waterfront I’m sure it is very crowded here in the summer.

Pesaro Beach continues in this direction to the city, at about the farthest point you can still see the beach. Turning the other direction, it keeps going like this for miles.

And, it’s noteworthy for the giant sphere sculpture in a reflecting pool in a lovely park by the waterfront. Perhaps not sufficient reason to move here, but nice.

On Google Maps, this is listed as Sfera Grande di A Pomodoro. Naturally enough, I thought this must be the giant tomato (pomodoro is Italian for tomato, don’t you know) and wondered if this was an important tomato growing region. But no. The sculptor’s name is Arthur Pomodoro.

All of this is very nice, but what really sold us on the town is the bicycles. People bicycle everywhere, in great numbers and for all purposes, rain or shine. It’s clearly an integral part of urban life here. And they’re proud enough of it to declare Pesaro the City of the Bicycle.

We arrived in Pesaro yesterday in the rain, cycling the last eight miles from Fano on a beautiful, smooth, flat bike path the whole way. It runs right along the sea, next to the rail line. It’s even labeled: Line 2 of the Bicipolitana.

I couldn’t find any articles on the Pesaro Bicipolitana in English, but you could look one up and translate it if you’re not fluent in Italian. The network began about fifteen years ago and now extends to 80 kilometers and is still growing. The orange line runs through the middle of the city, the green line runs inland along the Foglia River. Pesaro claims to have one of the highest bicycle penetration rates of any city in Europe.

Also, the old city is quite attractive with its fair share of palaces, churches and fortifications to draw your attention. Right now the main streets have a festive look, with colorful painted lanterns strung across them. I haven’t seen anything about this, so I don’t know if they’re a permanent feature or are just out now for some special reason. I could ask someone I guess, but for now we’re just content to enjoy them.

Here’s something I’ve never seen before. It’s a WWII memorial, with photographs of the dead rather than just their names.

The normal look in Pesaro - more bikers than cars.

The rains passed last night, and it’s cool but quite nice this morning. There’s a chance of showers in the afternoon, but after that we’re looking at a week of sunshine if forecasts are to be believed. We could go for a bike ride, but we decide to check out the famous beach instead.

We go our own way for the next three hours, but go in the same direction - southeast, back toward Fano. Rachael sticks to the Bicipolitana the whole way, which also includes a walking lane. I have it both ways though, walking south on the sand for about three miles and then doubling back along the paved lane. A beautiful morning.

We meet back up in town by the Great Tomato, settle into a waterfront restaurant for a fine lunch of Nicoise salad and spaghetti with tuna, and then retire to B&B Rossini for a relaxed afternoon. In the evening we step out again, weaving through the bikes on our way to a nearby pizzeria. Very therapeutic.

I like this. Behind me a worker is driving his rig, pushing around the sand. It looks like he must bike to work.

There’s an unbroken line of hotels and bathhouses that extends for at least a mile from town. All are closed for the season now.

I wonder if it’s anywhere near this quiet out of season in a normal year?

One of the more prominent littoral plants here. I can’t tell if they’re all the same species, but I think so - just in different stages of dessication.

Another mystery. Looks like a thornless locust.

The decor at our pizzeria: hanging bicycle, pendulous gourds.

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Suzanne GibsonYes, move to Pesaro!!!
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3 years ago

Jen RahnI second that! We'd love to visit you there .. and/or house sit when you're out riding somewhere else.
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3 years ago

Andrea BrownThe Group approves of your upcoming move to Pesaro.
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3 years ago

Keith ClassenPesaro would make a great location for the next Cycleblaze get together Could Kathleen and I get first dibs on the spare bedroom please? A king size bed would be great but queen size is acceptable. Remember to get a place that could accommodate tents as several Cycleblaze members prefer camping.
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3 years ago

Scott AndersonTo Keith ClassenThank you for your input, Keith. It’s good that we didn’t just buy the first place we saw on impulse. Always good to allow time until all the requirements are known.
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3 years ago

Scott AndersonTo Suzanne GibsonVery tempting, alright. And it’s so well connected! We could hop a train in the morning and make it to your place in time for dinner.
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3 years ago

Steve Miller/GrampiesTo Keith ClassenWe have sometimes thought about buying a little home base, somewhere in Europe on a major bike route. But it would take work and language ability to navigate the local purchasing, and then arranging for power. water. etc. We might be getting too old to initiate this, but hey we sure could chip in to something!

p.s. We do speak French. There has to be something cheap in those crumbly white villages in France? For example, we noticed Beaugency, on the Loire between Orleans and Tours - pictured on Day 75 of Grampies Ride Again! But hey, Pesaro could be fine too!
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3 years ago

Scott AndersonTo Jen RahnI love how flexible you Grumbys are, Jen. Two years ago you were all set to join us in a cave on the coast of Catalonia. Don’t you have any minimum requirements at all?
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3 years ago

Scott AndersonTo Steve Miller/GrampiesI imagine it’s cheaper here than on the Loire - and warmer and sunnier too! A definite plus. Actually, it looks like it would be a fine place for aging cyclists to continue on with their passion as long as their joints hold up. Miles of flat, safe coastal riding in one direction, and beautiful but not too challenging hills in the others. And you’re only a day’s train ride from some of your favorite destinations elsewhere on the continent.
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3 years ago

Steve Miller/GrampiesTo Scott AndersonOK, find something, send photos. Needs storage for a dozen bicycles, eh. Could be run as a Cycleblaze B&B.
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3 years ago

Scott AndersonTo Steve Miller/GrampiesPerfect. Running a B&B s our dream retirement job! We can stay inside making small talk and doing all the work, listening to our friends say what a fine day they just had. Enough of this crazy vagabond lifestyle!
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3 years ago

Rachael AndersonTo Scott AndersonWait just a minute there. I’m not ready to give up the vagabond life! I’d love to hear about our friends wonderful experiences but only if I can go with them!
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3 years ago

Jen RahnTo Scott AndersonWalking distance to a grocery store is always nice. I can't remember if the cave in Catalonia accommodates that wish .. so, maybe Pesaro is a better fit?

And Ron might disagree on our affinity for sleeping in a tent ...

I'd prefer a comfy bed out of the elements. Maybe a wall bed or an inflatable mattress?

My Rusty Spanish might help with communication in Italy or Spain(??)
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3 years ago

Kathleen JonesGonna pile on here. We're all for this idea. Requirements: en suite facilities, AC and heat, laundry, en suite espresso machine, king size bed, sag services. We know there will be sparkling conversation and much laughter so we're not putting that down.
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3 years ago

Suzanne GibsonTo Scott AndersonAlways welcome!
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3 years ago

Tricia GrahamType your comment here
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3 years ago

Bruce LellmanWe are in! All we need is the floor. Well, all I need is the floor to sleep on. Andrea speaks Italian somewhat and I speak a little Thai so we should be set! I was in Pesaro in 1974 and also thought it was a lovely place, even in January. When are you going to purchase this place?
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3 years ago

Scott AndersonTo Bruce LellmanI see that we’re going to post a calendar and take reservations. We’re planning only one bedroom and one bath, so we’ll run out of floor space quickly if we’re not careful.
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3 years ago

Scott AndersonTo Kathleen JonesYes, there will definitely be sweet facilities and espresso machine - but in one bedroom only I think. We do plan on having a discrete hedge outside for emergency use though.
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3 years ago

Bruce LellmanWe have a discreet hedge in our backyard too! I'm quite familiar with them so I already feel at home in your place! I'm going to go pack my bag now and then look for flights.
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3 years ago

Scott AndersonTo Bruce LellmanYou and the Grumbys. So flexible! No wonder we get along.
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3 years ago

Carolyn van HoeveMaybe a cycleblaze timeshare!
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3 years ago

Scott AndersonTo Carolyn van HoeveYes, that could definitely work. We’ll have t nudge Jeff to add a calendaring function.
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3 years ago