Saint-Affrique to Millau

October 10, 2023

What a Ride!

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What a magical bike touring day. If I wondered why we do this as we slogged up that first hill, by the time we were in Millau I was no longer questioning it.

But first, as always, breakfast. The same cast of characters as last night, and I fell further in love with my wee little old lady with a tiny bit of English and the most endearing laugh you have ever heard. We enjoyed house made yogurt, croissants, multiple jams, muesli, fruit and juice. In other words, everything we needed. How welcome our new friends made us feel. It was just wonderful.

Despite the fact that check out was 10 AM, and we managed to achieve that, we weren’t on our way until 10:30, as first we had to go donkey hunting and feeding with Stephan. Evidently keeping donkeys is (and I quote) in fashion in France, and these two donkeys were adorable. One of them was very vocal, especially when you were approaching with delectable hay, and I had fits of laughter. You should have heard the braying.

Then an explore of Saint-Affrique itself, and it was lovely. Another enormous church in a small place, a super pedestrianized area, and a bakery where lunch was obtained. There was also an ancient bridge and everything else you expect in small town France. We loved it.

A tunnel to get us from our chambre d’hôte into town.

This is the rather serendipitous way we found the pont vieux.

Wikipedia says it was cited in 1368, with repairs in 1418 and 1737. It was classified as a historic monument in 1886.

The ever capable CN directed us out of town and all was well until Komoot sent us up a cliff. We ended up walking, both of us, which tells you how steep it was. Keith thinks 13 percent according to his electronics. Fortunately it was paved, which helped, and also very low traffic. We did note that in the first few km of the ride we climbed 200 m, descended 100 m and we both managed to drop our chains. It is always best to do these things in the morning when you are fresh we find!

Looking back at Saint-Affrique from the mountain goat route.

Topping out before we dropped down to the D road to continue climbing. From a distance I couldn’t tell if this was a natural outcropping or a derelict castle.

Once we were on the D road, the climb, while still a long one, was at highway grades and very manageable. When we popped out at the top the views were magnificent and the riding became easy.

There is the Tarn! We have been looking for it for days.

We rolled into Saint Rome de Tarn and ducked through an archway to see where it went. It was like going back in time. What a charming and ancient place it is. We stopped at a delightful café for a cold drink, which became a cold drink and lasagna bolognese, simply because the proprietor was so charming and we wanted to give him the business. Then a quick visit to Tourist Information, because they had one, and we were off to the Tarn.

Our secret passage to going back in time.

It was beautiful from the start, as promised by the young person in TI. We met another bike tourer briefly, coming the other way, who was from Albi. Then we followed the Tarn and it was amazing.

There was a rockslide here and we were fortunate we could get through. It was one lane, alternating traffic.

It is where Rich and Robin Frasier had to do a 30 km detour, with lots of climbing.

Approaching Peyre. A town built into the rock.

I love this picture. It illustrates nicely how quiet the road was.

Next up was the Viaduct de Millau. What a feat of engineering. We felt very small going underneath. You could see it from Peyre and the juxtaposition of old and new was very interesting.

It was completed in 2004. It is the tallest bridge in the world.

I wonder what the Romans would have thought?

What a feat of engineering this is. It is 336.4 m high. I didn’t measure. Google helped out.

Then it was a straightforward ride into Millau and our hotel, except we arrived at the back and it was about three stories up and inaccessible. Thanks Google. There was a cyclist there and we asked how to get to reception. He started to explain, laughed and said follow me. How kind! He deposited us at the front door and was on his way.

The Hotel La Capelle is in a perfect spot and we have been out for an explore and pizza. Millau has a really great feel we both agree. After another full day we are excited about tomorrow.

The town landmark, a 12th century tower symbolizing the King of Aragon.

The interior of the pizza place. We ate outside on the square, but the interior was so beautiful I had to get a picture.

Here is the Relive:

https://www.relive.cc/view/vNOPQkx3Z26

Today's ride: 44 km (27 miles)
Total: 872 km (542 miles)

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Scott AndersonI love your attitude, Kathleen. When things go well, thank the CN. When it’s not, blame Kormoot!
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7 months ago

Kathleen ClassenTo Scott AndersonThe secret to a long and happy marriage 😉
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7 months ago