Plaisance to Saint-Affrique

October 9, 2023

A Hilly Day

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We started the day with breakfast of course, made just for us by the lovely Isabelle. It was delicious and we certainly took full advantage. Then it was goodbye to Claudia, Kari and Isabelle. We had a long chat with Claudia about our route ahead. She knows her stuff as she runs the bike tours from the hotel. What a spot, and the perfect location for a hub and spoke tour. Claudia mentioned she has many guests who prefer this area to Girona and I can really see why. So quiet, so calm, a beautiful hotel and amazing cycle routes. A fabulous place to bring some friends and spend the week exploring the area. She has bikes of every kind, road bikes, e bikes and more, in every size. Here is the website:

http://www.lesmagnoliashotel.com/

Kari’s motorcycle. A different kind of bike. A beautiful one I might add.

The ride began with a gradual uphill. The kind of grade that you feel like you can do all day. We saw a number of other cyclists and very few cars. It was just beautiful. Our first stop was Coupiac which Claudia had told us to watch for.

Then came the days planned climb. The views were gorgeous and the photos don’t do them justice.

At km 15 there was a Belvedere. Up we went and we weren’t sorry we did. We felt like we were on top of the world. And we were, this part of the world anyway.

Like we hadn’t already done enough climbing.

Such a surprise to find this in such a tiny, tiny place.

Then it was down and up and down but mostly up. Lots of rollers today. We stopped in Saint-Izaire for a look around, a cold drink and our picnic lunch.

A creative lives here. Or they got a bargain on paint. Not sure which.

Then there were more rollers, but we were fortified with a substantial lunch. It was hot today, 30°C and shade was appreciated when we had it.

Then came some unfortunate confusion. As we approached Saint-Affrique the CN found our hotel location in Google Maps using the direction function in his email from Hotels.com. Uppity up we went for two km, me tremendously puzzled but Keith is so good at navigation I assumed it was my usual navigational confusion and didn’t question him. When we finally stopped for a breather he took another look and that is when he discovered the online directions to the hotel were completely wrong. That is how a day where we expected about 700m of climbing ended up being 865m! At least it was a nice swoop back down.

We love our chambre d’hôte, Domain du Vern. A welcoming couple, donkeys who brayed repeatedly on our arrival to our amusement, and a dinner that was so darn much fun even if we understood very little of what was said. A fabulous evening all around.

Stephan, our host, demonstrating what happens when you add a lot of cheese to pommes de terre.

The nicest group of welcoming people. The lady across from me was so delightful, and young Amelie was the only one in the group with a good grasp of English and was patient as a saint. So much fun.

We are sleepy, very full, and happy. Such a great experience staying here, in every way.

Today's ride: 50 km (31 miles)
Total: 828 km (514 miles)

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Steve Miller/GrampiesWow, you had a climbing day as well. Some of ours was also accidental but beautiful nonetheless.
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7 months ago

Anne MathersThat’s the kind of terrain that hooked us when we first toured in France many mooms ago. Pure joy on two wheels.
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7 months ago

Kathleen ClassenTo Anne MathersIt really is cycling bliss. Each day is a feast for the eyes.
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7 months ago

Kathleen ClassenTo Steve Miller/GrampiesThe views make it all worthwhile.
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7 months ago