Lake Iseo is a fine scale for a day out on the bike. Not quite twenty miles long north to south, it’s small enough that circling I would be a reasonable day ride - just over 40 miles - which was my initial intention with booking two nights here. The longer I stared at the map though, the less sure I was about that idea. The west side of the lake is severely cramped by cliffs that rise dramatically straight up from the water, and for a fair part of the way there’s nowhere else but the SS road, which even on a weekday morning seems like it could be too busy and cramped to be enjoyable.
Instead, I decide on an out and back up the east side of the lake, where the hills are further back from the water and for much of the way there is a separate bike lane or path. Part of the way on this side it’s pretty busy too, and navigation is a little confusing through a few of the lakeside communities. Toward the north end though it’s brilliant: for about four miles the old coast road is closed to cars, which now take a higher road that tunnels through the mountain here. Bikes though are right next to the water on a gorgeous road that tunnels through or undercuts the sheer cliffs that rise straight up from the lake.
An amazing ride, that in spots makes me think of biking along the Amalfi Coast but without the buses, cars and lemon groves; or through the Nesque Gorge but alongside the water instead of with views of Mont Ventoux. The whole way I’m thinking of Rachael and hoping she is enjoying a really great hike to make it worth missing out on this experience, and sorry that she isn’t here with her GoPro to give us a different record of it.
East of Clusane, looking across the vineyards that line the southern shore of the lake.
Makes me think of the photos of Norwegian fjords I’ve seen. You can see the road on the opposite shore at the base of the cliffs. I’m sure it would make a fine loop ride, especially if you were here off season when the roads are quieter.
In the town of Iseo. There’s a lot to see here, and I’m sure it would be an inviting place to stay and wander through after most of the daytime crowd has dissipated.
Gregory GarceauI assume you realize that it violates Cycleblaze rules to hint at a good story and then not tell the story. Reply to this comment 10 months ago
Scott AndersonTo Gregory GarceauI wondered if anyone would chide me for that. I might have guessed it would be you.
I didn’t say it was a good story, just that it was a story. Since you asked though, I had just spent a frustrating minute trying to get a decent shot of a woman browsing at a clothing rack, pulling out one dress after another for consideration. Very colorful, but nothing that really worked. Then a saw this skirt walking by out of the corner of my eye and on impulse took a quick snap. I was surprised it came out as well as it did, even if it’s not quite in focus. Reply to this comment 10 months ago
Monte Isola, the large island in the center of the lake. It’s large and developed enough to include a few small communities. There’s ferry access at both the north and south endS, a bikeable ring road, and a hiking route to the summit. If we came back to Iseo I’m pretty sure we’d make our way out there.
Beneath the cliffs. I lost count, but there must be eight or ten tunnels, all short. Here we’re looking through one to Riva di Solto on the opposite side of the lake.
Pisogne, at the north end of the lake. I turned back there, but if you were ambitious and up for an overnight stay or two you could keep going up the Oglio and cut across to the Adige and Trento.
Rachael has the keys today, so I’ve been tracking her position wondering if she’ll be home when I return. It’s very close, but I arrive perhaps four or five minutes before she does. When she shows up she’s holding out an ice cream bar for me so it’s worth the wait.
Once again we were really lucky with the weather and the timing. For dinner we have an excellent meal at Il Porto with a view of the lake and the gloomy storm rolling in. We’re happy to make it back the two short blocks to our room relatively dry not long before the deluge begins.
