Hvar Town to Polace

June 7, 2023

Gave up on my Blue Cave/Vis island tour, but after the fact, saw all the lights were green for it today. I didn't think they would be based on what I was told last night. Murphy's Law.

Caught the ferry to Mljet Island. Chatted with some other cyclists from Vancouver as we were all interested in going to the national park (Croatia's first). The entrance fee was $25, but a guy who rents out bikes, told us they don't check. I decided to head down the rocky dirt road just to get a glimpse, but of course I decided to keep going. He had also mentioned you could buy tickets in the park so if all else fails, I had that option. The lake was the most beautiful green color. It's a saltwater lake and is the parks main attraction. It was a pleasant ride around it as the trees provided lots of shade. (I went counterclockwise, if it matters.)

Did I mention the most beautiful green color?!

I went out to the point on the opposite side of Soline past the dam. (Take the little walking track and you will see where it becomes the sea.) Amazing view.

Looking back at the bridge from hell. More on that later.

Since I did not have a entrance ticket, I could not take the boat over to this (it's included in the price). I hear it's really neat though.

This tree has seen better days, but makes for a nice picture

I felt I couldn't leave without getting a bike (and Glory) picture of this beautiful lake.

It wasn't all perfect. There are little bike rails to get up over these stairs, but with my bike fully loaded, making them next to impossible to use. Too steep and track too narrow. Thankfully, a guy came to help me before I even started up. Maybe he knew what I was in for. It was extremely difficult, and he was doing most of the pushing! Eventually, just took front panniers off and made a couple of trips. What a nightmare section this was!

Had to push my bike partway up the gravel road back to the main road where I was greeted with a steep 8% climb. Managed to pedal the whole thing before zooming down. Maybe all those rest days did some good!

Entrance to Polace. I had to wait for a box truck to inch its way through. I thought it might actually get stuck!

Was looking for this one apartment for rent. A guy was trying to help me as he was working on his terrace getting ready for a restaurant opening. He says, "I have bad news. It's back in Pomena." (Where the ferry arrived.) He asked to see a picture, but then my phone acted up and I couldn't get service. I half joked, "Can I camp here?" and much to my surprise he said yes.

Was looking forward to my amazing waterside view, but then when I inquired about a bathroom, he said he'd leave me the key to the restaurant. In the end, he offered up a futon in there and as much as I wanted to set my tent up on the terrace, knowing I'd be up at least once for the bathroom, it just made more sense to stay inside. I knew I could still enjoy the view until I went to bed.

Had a fun afternoon chatting with Izo (I hope I spelled that correctly). I learned a bit about the war and how Croatia joining the European Union at the first of the year, has impacted things. I thought he was the luckiest guy to live on this island, but then he mentioned in the winter hardly anyone is there, and it gets very boring. It's funny as a tourist, I see the good, but forget to think about what happens for the locals when it's not tourist season.

I got in a little boat ride too. One of the locals stopped by on his boat and they asked if I wanted to go for a ride. Of course I did. We just went down and checked another trap. There was nowhere really to sit on the boat. It's clearly used for fishing. The guy only spoke a little English, but after he docked he had me follow him. He was building a little acquarium with various tanks. He then invited me up and offered me a drink. I was pretty sure they were alcoholic. I don't drink anymore so declined -- multiple times. It was kind of annoying because although I felt I was being rude to decline the drink, there's a reason I don't drink anymore, but I couldn't explain it and he just kept pushing "just a little drink." He also managed to communicate that he wanted me to come over for dinner. I thought it's better I decline at that point even though it was kind of him.

He also showed me how some planks on the dock lifted up revealing a secret little storage area....with three sharks in it! Although they were little, makes me rethink my plans for a swim!

Izo's partner is Nicolai (sp?) and he was there working as well. His sister showed up later -- over for the weekend from Dubrovnik -- and I chatted a bit with her. She said she'd bring me some homemade cake later her family always makes. She did and it was delicious! So thoughtful of her.

I should mention that Izo, has connections so lucky me is getting access to a catamaran I shouldn't be able to board with my bike. That means I can relax all day tomorrow and then catch my ride directly into Dubrovnik.

Today's ride: 9 miles (14 km)
Total: 476 miles (766 km)

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