D12: 九所 → 海口（双语）

January 23, 2025

Today was one of those days where everything went sideways. Because it's both irrelevant to this journal and none of your business, I'm going to skip over all the reasons I'm justifiably annoyed at Chinese Boyfriend and focus all my grousing on travel related things.

First, I started my day off by filming a lengthy sequence on day to day bike maintenance which I wouldn't realize until hours and hours later and with no suitable backdrops for redoing "Marian checks her tires¹" that I'd done it in portrait mode rather than landscape and had therefore rendered it completely useless for the Media Center's purposes.

今天算是诸事不顺的一天。这些烦心事跟这篇日记无关，也是我个人的私事。我就跳过那些能让我理直气壮生中国男友气的缘由，专门吐槽旅行中遇到的糟心事。

首先是，我就拍了一长段自行车日常保养的内容。结果过了好几个小时我才发现，这段“岳玫瑰检查轮胎 ¹”的画面拍成了竖屏而非横屏。而且当时已经找不到合适的背景补拍，这段素材对媒体中心来说算是彻底报废了。

My keycard and the frosted glass bathroom door have different hotel names on them 我的房卡和卫生间玻璃门上印的酒店名称不一样

First Hope School² of the Tour, my research team³ seems to think it was built with funds donated by the Overseas Hainanese Association of Montreal 此次骑行遇到的第一所希望小学²，我的调研团队³查证，这所学校是由蒙特利尔海南同乡会捐资修建的

The remaining star motif in the concrete caused me to date this bridge to the mid-60s. All the surviving in use bridges on this stretch then turned out to be mid-60s 桥上混凝土残留的星形花纹，让我判断这座桥建于上世纪60年代中期。没想到这段路上还在通行的老桥，居然全都是那个时期的产物

As it was also both in English and set up as "a middle shot" in an ongoing storytelling sequence, it's also unlikely that I can salvage it into something that works for my almost exclusively portrait mode, almost exclusively Chinese-language Douyin.

This section of the Coastal Tourism Highway is also the G225 national road that runs down the west side of the island, and, unless your purpose in being on this Road is to go to one of the dozens of scenic areas that I've mostly never seen any purpose in visiting⁴, it doesn't really have a whole lot of qualities that redeem it to a touring cyclist.

更要命的是，这段视频不仅是英文旁白，还是我正在剪辑的故事短片里的一个中景镜头。我平时玩的抖音几乎全是竖屏内容，而且都是中文文案，这段素材基本不能用了。

这段环岛旅游公路，同时也是贯穿海南岛西部的225国道。除非你此行的目的是去沿途几十个景区打卡，而这些景区我大多觉得没什么逛头⁴，否则对骑行爱好者来说，这条路实在没什么亮点可言。

First "this mountain is closed for tree growing⁵" of the Tour 此次骑行遇到的第一个“封山育林⁵”

First fibreglass M&M of the Tour 此次骑行遇到的第一个玻璃钢材质的M&M豆人偶

First saxophone player of the Tour AND he resumes the standard pattern⁶ of having biked to a park to practice music 此次骑行遇到的第一个萨克斯演奏者！而且他完全符合“骑车去公园练习”的常规操作⁶

I mean, prior to the bypass being built around the corner where Tianya Haijiao is located, the traffic was orders of magnitude worse than it is now. But, the towns—like Maling "Little Santorini"—are real towns that grew up naturally rather than being placed there by urban planners and the roads just aren't equipped to handle the vast numbers of people who have forgotten how to look both ways before crossing or who think red lights only apply to cars.

要知道，在天涯海角附近的那段路修了绕行线之前，这里的交通拥堵程度可比现在严重好几个量级。但沿途的镇子，比如号称“小圣托里尼”的马岭，都是自然发展起来的原生村落，不是规划出来的景点，可这些路的设计根本扛不住这么多行人。他们要么过马路不看两边，要么觉得红灯只对汽车管用。

Just after crossing into Sanya, this Coffee Car is run by a guy who has a bricks and mortar coffee shop in Chengdu 刚进入三亚境内，就遇到一辆移动咖啡车。车主在成都有家实体咖啡店

I'm used to Rural Surrealist Trompe I'oeil, however, this seems to be Impressionism 我对乡村里那些超现实的写实壁画早就见怪不怪了，但眼前这幅，画风居然是印象派的

There are things and places where I would have preferred to linger but I'm hurrying my way into Sanya in order to make it to a bike shop before they close so I can leave my bike with them for a short jaunt back to Haikou and then to Wenchang for the first rocket launch of the year. I will get there with plenty of time to spare only to find that the very reasonable 20y per day storage fee is applied per bag.

Even though my handlebar bag, and every pannier that I don't take with me will be attached to the bike, all of them and the bike are each separately counted as an individual bag.

其实路上有不少地方我都想多逗留一会儿，但我还是赶着进三亚市区。我得在自行车店关门前赶到，把车寄存在那里，这样才能抽空回一趟海口，再去文昌看今年的首场火箭发射。我紧赶慢赶，总算提前好多到了店里，结果却被告知，那个看似合理的20元/天寄存费，是按件计费的。

甚至车把包，还有所有不带在身上的驮包还挂在自行车上，不算一件而都要单独算钱。

Daniele from Cucina Italia has already said it's okay to leave my bike with them if I can't make it to the bike shop before they close, so I'm off to there because no way in hell am I paying 100y per day just because this shop happens to be a short walk from the train station.

三亚湾意大利餐厅的老板丹尼尔已经说了，如果我赶不上自行车店的营业时间，就把车放他店里。我当即决定直奔餐厅，就因为这家店离火车站近，就要收我每天100元寄存费？门儿都没有！

A pod of motorcycle tourers 偶遇一队摩托车骑行爱好者

An almost Thai way of having a shrine outside every single home on this stretch 这段路上家家户户门口都有神龛，布置风格特别像泰国

This road in Yazhou is named after Yuan Longping⁷ 崖州的这条路，是以袁隆平⁷的名字命名的

Except...

The place he and Tessa thought would be good to leave my bike isn't just "not a bike shed," it doesn't even have a gate or fence of any kind. Cause security cameras are totally enough, and besides which, who steals bikes?

然而……

他和他老婆帮我找的存车点，别说自行车棚了，连个大门或围栏都没有。大概他们觉得有监控就万事大吉了吧，再说了，谁会偷自行车呢？

Get that solved, walk to the tram with two panniers and my handlebar bag because 1) the hook on one of the Vaude bags just gave up after 13 years of service, 2) they really don't have anywhere in the restaurant where leaving my bags is feasible, and 3) Sanya in January laughs at the idea of successfully getting a taxi.

Everything just about handled, I board the train for Haikou only to find that sometime this morning, the launch that was supposed to be the ending segment of my long video has been rescheduled for February 11.

存车的事总算搞定，我拎着两个驮包和车把包去坐有轨电车。原因有三：一是我的沃德驮包用了13年，挂钩彻底坏了；二是餐厅里实在没地方放我的行李；三是一月份的三亚，想打到出租车简直是天方夜谭。

一切总算安排妥当，我登上了开往海口的列车。结果却看到通知：原定要作为我长视频收尾镜头的火箭发射，今早通知改期到2月11日了。

Trees vs. Roadbuilders, this time it's not just old, it's also holy 树木与筑路者的博弈，这次的树不只是年头久，还被当地人奉为神树

First level crossing of the Tour 此次骑行第一次经过铁路平交道口

¹ Because I'm justifiably annoyed at Chinese Boyfriend, and because my super awesome electric mini pump is a gift from him that I frequently photograph myself using (on account of it being a gift from him that he should know I'm enjoying), it stands to reason that it was probably his fault I messed up my video. Amirite?

¹ 我本来就在生中国男友的气，而我那个超好用的电动迷你打气筒，还是他送我的礼物。我平时用它的时候还总拍照片发给他，就是想让他知道我很喜欢这份礼物。这么说来，我把轮胎加气视频拍砸了，说不定就是他的锅，对吧？

² A no longer active program where enterprises, wealthy individuals, and sometimes random organizations sponsored the construction of a school

² 一个现已终止的公益项目，由企业、富商或各类组织出资，援建乡村学校。

³ Every so often a "why is this" or a "I don't understand that" posted in my WeChat group gets a very in depth answer by someone who clearly took a decent chunk of time to look it up for me.

³ 我在微信群里偶尔会问些“这是为啥”、“我搞不懂”的问题，总有人会花不少时间查资料，然后给我一个特别详尽的解答。

First Martyr's Grave of the Tour 此次骑行遇到的第一个烈士墓碑

A second Martyr's Grave, this one is on its own by the side of the road, instead of being in a graveyard 又一个烈士墓碑，但它是路边独立一个而不是墓园里

⁴ Only reason I ever went to the Nanshan Buddhist Temple and saw the Guanyin-on-the-sea is because I was taking part in an activity which the Provincial Tourism Development Commission sponsored in 2015, and I've never been to Daxiao Dongtian or Tianya Haijiao.

⁴ 我唯一一次去南山寺看海上观音，还是因为2015年参加省旅游发展委员会主办的活动。大小洞天和天涯海角这两个地方，我至今都没去过。

⁵ Always made of concrete, if these have dates on them, they are usually for a 20 year period that ended no later than 2015. Not sure if they are no longer doing this method of reforestation for the purposes of eventual harvest, or if they now have other ways of posting notice

⁵ 这种告示牌都是混凝土做的。如果牌子上标了日期，有效期通常是20年，而且截止日期最晚不超过2015年。我不知道现在是不是不用这种方式育林了，还是说他们换了别的公示办法。

I wanted to be impressed by this absolute beast of a touring cyclist who looked to be in his 60s, and is doing 160km days, but he was incredibly boring to talk to, and had a superior attitude at me when he still thought my Rohloff was a pedal assist motor 我本以为这位看着六十多岁、每天骑行 160 公里的硬核长途骑行者会让我刮目相看，结果跟他聊天实在无聊透顶。而且他还把我的罗尔夫内变速花鼓当成了电动助力装置，对我摆出一副居高临下的样子。

⁶ All of last Tour's sax players were fruit sellers

⁶ 上次骑行的时候碰到的萨克斯手，全都是卖水果的。

⁷ Known as the Father of Hybrid Rice, he died about two years ago. The majority of his life's work took place in Sanya

⁷ 被誉为“杂交水稻之父”，于两年前逝世。他一生中的大部分科研工作，都是在三亚完成的。

Today's ride: 83 km (52 miles)
Total: 801 km (497 miles)

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D12: 九所 → 海口 （双语）

D12: 九所 → 海口（双语）