D11: 江边 → 九所（双语）

January 22, 2025

I'm so glad I got one of the last rooms in Jiangbian's only hotel. I certainly could have made it the next 30km or so to Ledong County, but it wouldn't have been pleasant and I'd have missed all the pretty scenery.

It is not a super comfortable hotel room. It's not uncomfortable per se, but nothing is going to compare to the easily six inch thick memory foam mattress¹ at the Adams' place. Also, because I've gone back up into the mountains, I'm back to wanting to have heat to turn on.

真庆幸订到了江边仅有的酒店的最后房间之一。其实我本可以再骑约30公里到乐东县，但那样肯定骑得不愉快，还会错过沿途所有的美景。

这个酒店房间算不上特别舒适。严格来说倒也不算不舒服，只是实在比不上亚当斯家那张足足六英寸厚的记忆棉床垫¹。而且因为我又回到了山区，此刻特别想打开暖气取暖。

However, wiped as I was when I got in, and faced with the prospect of stairs—few as they were—I'd left the Coffee Bag on the bike, and I didn't even have so much as my ghetto space heater² to take the edge off.

但我到酒店时已经累得筋疲力尽，想到还要爬几级楼梯——哪怕没几级——就把咖啡袋落在自行车上了，连我那简易小暖机²都没拿上来，没法稍微驱散点寒意。

I refer to my Mokinas' color scheme as "accidentally Ukrainian" 我把自己这两个迷你摩卡壶配色戏称为“无心撞色乌克兰国旗”

On the Rainforest Road in the upper reaches of the Changhua River 环热带公路昌化江上游段

Really mourning that lost tripod about now 现在真的超后悔弄丢了三脚架

There were no useful shops on the way out of the village where the Adams live and I didn't pass through any real towns, so, even though Super Ming³ is all braggy brag about having over 10,000 locations across China, I'm down to like two packets of instant oatmeal and a UHT pasteurized hard boiled egg in the food pannier.

Luckily, breakfast in Jiangbian's is easier to find than dinner was.

从亚当斯家所在的村子出来时，沿途根本没有什么能补给的商店，之后也没经过什么像样的城镇。所以尽管“赵一鸣”零食店³一直吹嘘自己在全中国有上万家门店，我的骑行驮包里现在也只剩两包速食燕麦片和一个超高温灭菌的水煮蛋了。

好在江边的早餐比晚餐容易找多了。

The weather is perfect. The sky is blue, the clouds are white fluffy cotton balls, the Changhua River is still wide and slow from the huge dam downstream at Daguangba, and I even see a couple of non-517 Chinese touring cyclists bravely being part of the first cohort to try to cycle the whole Rainforest Road since it's official opening last month.

今天天气好得无可挑剔。天空湛蓝，云朵像蓬松的棉花糖，下游大广坝的巨型水坝让昌化江依旧河面宽阔、水流平缓。我甚至还看到了几位非“517骑行”的中国骑行爱好者，他们勇敢地成为上个月环热公路正式通车以来，首批尝试全程骑行这条路线的人。

This is one of the two largest reservoirs on the island 这是海南岛的两大水库之一

And you can't beat this kind of paving with this level of traffic 这种路况配上这么少的车流量，简直无可挑剔

Then I get into Ledong and switch to the now 5xx "scenic" national road that's the primary non-expressway route between the county seat and the coast.

Logically, I know that the sky is no less blue and the mountains no less green. However, with a headwind and the kind of plain surroundings that provide support for the grain crops that feed much of Hainan, it feels as if the color has been leeched away.

后来我进入乐东县境内，转而走上了如今编号为5开头的“风景”国道，这是连接乐东县城和沿海地区的非高速主干道。

按理说，天空还是一样的蓝，群山也还是一样的绿。但顶着逆风骑行，周围又是大片种植着海南主要粮食作物的平原，总感觉眼前的景色都失去了色彩。

Mind you, this could just be me getting tired of going up, down, up, down, up, down.

不过，这也可能只是因为我骑得太累了，没完没了地上坡、下坡，循环往复，实在让人烦躁。

Actually, looking at my photos, and the colors were less vibrant 说实话，看照片才发现，当时的景色确实没那么鲜亮

Took a photo of this "don't take photos of military stuff" sign because I'm reasonably sure I'm nowhere near anything military and I don't understand why there is a sign 拍下了这个警示牌，我相当确定自己离任何军事设施都远得很，实在搞不懂为什么会有这个牌子

Finally, the great big downnnnnn comes and I'm dumped in one of those train station towns full of tower blocks, winter snowbirds, and bike lanes that—instead of checking that the local ebikes meet speed regulations—some asshole has put speed bumps across.

I continue heading coastwards until I meet up with the old west line and the original Jiusuo Town. The hotel I've pointed myself at is playing games with the price they're showing on the apps and the bookings they're accepting⁵ so I pick something 300m farther away and with more of a business hotel vibe to it.

最后，迎来了一段超爽的长下坡，我一路冲到了一个高铁站小镇。这里满是高楼大厦，住着不少避寒的“候鸟”，自行车道上居然还装了减速带。某些人与其花心思去检查当地电动自行车是否符合限速规定，倒不如说这是脑子进水了。

我继续朝着海边骑，直到汇入西线老路，抵达了九所镇。我原本想订的那家酒店在预订平台上的标价和实际可预订价格简直是在耍花招⁵，于是我换了一家，离这里300米远，更像是家商务酒店。

This pun is dreadful. Translation in footnote ⁶ 这个双关语太烂了，注脚⁶附译文

My usual bike shop, which is named off of a reference to the owner's name is called 全力, so I had to get this shot for him 我常去的那家自行车店老板名字带“全”，所以店名就叫“全力”，看到这个我必须拍下来给他看

To see this PSA (translation in footnote ⁷) once in a town is disturbing enough. To see it twice, however, means that it's actually something which is frequent enough for the local government to view as a problem 在一个镇上看到一次这种公告（注脚⁷附译文）就够让人不安的了，居然看到两次，这说明这种事在当地发生得相当频繁，已经引起了当地政府的重视

It's the kind of place that used to emphatically not be on my radar because it was surely staffed by staff instead of the owner's family but this close to Sanya the proliferation of small holiday hotels run by random people who thought taking over managing a hotel would be a good way to spend winters here has already started.

Big elevators, huge lobby, a front desk that's willing to figure out the complexities of dealing with a passport⁸, comfortable beds, sufficient water pressure.... and they're now bookmarked for next year's Round the Island.

以前我肯定不会考虑住这种酒店，因为这类酒店通常都是雇员工打理，而不是老板家人亲自经营。但这里离三亚很近，已经开始涌现出很多小型度假酒店，老板们大多是些心血来潮的人，觉得冬天来这里经营酒店是个不错的选择。

这家酒店电梯很大，大堂也宽敞，前台还愿意费心琢磨怎么用护照办理入住手续⁸。房间里的床很舒服，水压也足够……我已经把它加入明年环岛骑行的收藏名单了。

Also bookmarking this "natural hot springs, this way" site 也记下了这个指示牌

I'm going to assume that the stunning wall paintings are because this is a Tourism Road 我猜这些精美的壁画之所以存在，是因为这里是条旅游公路吧

The Yinggehai Salt Fields are a still operational and exceptionally pretty industrial heritage site at the south end of this county 莺歌海盐场是该县南部一处仍在运营的工业遗址，景色格外美

¹ A mattress which is so decadently comfortable that her raised with a straw mat over wooden boards mother says it's "too soft to sleep on"

¹ 这张床垫舒服得简直算得上奢侈，她那位睡惯了木板上铺草席的母亲都说“太软了，没法睡”。

² After running for more than 30 minutes, the hotplate safeties down to 55° C.

² 这个小电炉开30多分钟后，加热盘就会自动安全降温到55摄氏度。

³ That's the one I previously referred to as "the Jay Zhou store"

³ 就是我之前说的“周杰伦代言的店”

⁴ Daguang Reservoir means "Big and Big". Daguangba is the name of the dike and the village nearby to it.

⁴ 大广水库意为“又大又广”。大广坝是大坝和附近村庄的名字。

⁵ Could be the apps playing games but, despite the number of hotels I've stayed at where the owner claims that the app is making unapproved discounts, I'm pretty sure it's the hotel

⁵ 也有可能是预订平台在搞鬼，但尽管我住过很多酒店，老板都声称平台擅自打折，我还是觉得多半是酒店在耍手段。

I have never looked at a tree and said to myself "what this tree needs is a six foot tall concrete wall topped with broken glass" 我从未盯着一棵树想过：“这棵树缺的就是一道六英尺高、墙头还插着碎玻璃的水泥墙吧”

Not enough sunlight left for a detour 绕道去探索就赶不上日落了

According to the wise and venerable Dr. M, just because I have only rarely seen heritage site markers for immovable cultural relics matched with a total lack of anything relic shaped, it's actually quite common 据德高望重的M博士说，就算我很少在全找不到任何文物的踪影看到不可移动的文物保护单位的标识牌，这种情况其实很常见

⁶ A 研究所 is a research institute. Pronounced the same way, this is a 研酒所 or "place for seriously contemplating the consumption of alcohol." It's also on one of those twee blue and white street signs Dr. M really hates.

⁶ “研究所”是科研机构。这个读音相同，却是“研酒所”，意为“认真琢磨喝酒的地方”。这个招牌还是那种蓝白相间的小清新路牌，正是M博士特别讨厌的那种。

⁷ Sexual molestation of minors is a crime which, in serious instances, can be given the death penalty. All sexual relations with girls under the age of 14 are categorized as violent rape.

⁷ 普法之路任重道远

⁸ I really dislike the ad hoc registration method† of "photo of the passport, send to the local police." In terms of convenience, even when it was simply the common solution used throughout rural Guangxi, it's great. However, most of the police stations which have effected this as a solution are having the hotels share our ID photos in a common group chat with dozens of other hotels. That having been said ... it's why he knew what to do.

⁸ 我真的很不喜欢这种临时登记方式†，“拍下护照照片，发给当地派出所”。单说便利性的话，以前在广西农村地区普遍这么做的时候确实很方便。但问题是，大多数采用这种方式的派出所，会让酒店把我们的身份证件照片发到一个有几十家酒店的公共微信群里共享。不过话说回来……也正因为这样，前台才知道该怎么处理我的入住。

† that may or may not result in actually being correctly entered into the relevant databases

† 这种登记方式最终能不能正确录入相关系统，还真不好说。

His dried beef still requires cooking. He offered to cook some for me if I really wanted it, but I still had over 50 kilometers left to do 他卖的牛肉干还需要煮熟才能吃。他说要是我实在想吃，就帮我煮点，但我当时还有50多公里的路要骑呢

These are almost definitely pitaya 这些几乎可以肯定是火龙果园区

Today's ride: 89 km (55 miles)
Total: 718 km (446 miles)

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D11: 江边 → 九所 （双语）

D11: 江边 → 九所（双语）