July 23, 2023
Day 4 - Potes to Riano
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The campsite last night may have been the best I've ever stayed in. Free hot showers, a free swimming pool, bar/restaurant, really fully-stocked (and reasonable!) shop on site, individual little terraces for tents. Full of adorable kids who were magically quiet when it came to 11pm. I was shocked when I payed the bill on checking out - all this for 12 euros.
I came up with a plan over my second cervesa in the restaurant. I was really done with off-road experiences for now - I'd bashed myself up pretty badly (my ankle is almost comically swollen - fortunately it doesn't hurt much now, but it's bruised to heck and I have scratches all down my arms from trying to climb a concrete water vat. While the off-road route through the middle of the Picos looks, um, exciting - according to the map it involves 20%+ grades in places, and I just can't ride that on a bad surface.
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That'll mean a very tough day, probably more wild camping, and will leave me some distance behind where I'd expected. While I have no doubt I could force the bike over the pass somehow (I am extremely pig-headed as the water vat story shows), being in a hurry means I'll enjoy it less and it'll feel rushed. If I couldn't get over, I'd be stuck in a cul-de-sac - I'd have to return to Potes!
On the plus side my puddle-water cookery experiment seems not to have hurt me. Two days later and I'm right as rain. I even drunk the cooking water as hot chocolate, with added whiskey!
So I came up with an alternate plan. The only other way over the Picos from Potes is to take the national road N-621 to the pass with the glorious name of Peurto San Glorio. I'd originally ruled this as it involves climbing to over 1,500m - however, it will allow me to then trace directly west, and essentially cruise all the way down to Asturias. I planned to break the journey in Riano, by the big reservoir at >1000m - so retaining my elevtation gain, and I knew there was a campsite there. Even though this would be a huge climb, the grades promised to be around 7% average, which I can grind away pretty much forever in the granny.
I was a bit worried about the traffic. But I hoped that it being Sunday would defray this.
After a good breakfast from the camp shop, I set off in cool and cloudy conditions - perfect for climbing, but clear enough to see the mountains. I surprised myself by covering half the 18km distance to the pass in less than an hour, but then the climbing really began. It was - relentless. Just up and up and up. The scenery was fantastic - I had no shortage of mountain views. I was passed by a few light cyclists on the way up, and they gave me encouraging shouts - people keep shouting what sounds like "Animal!" at me - assuming this isn't Spanish for "wanker" I'll take it. I was passed by literally one car every 5-10 minutes - and the driving was just impeccable. People moved (sometime extravagantly) right into the other lane. Superb country.
I gathered water from springs by the road - filtered I have no qualms about drinking this. There were hairpins, eagles circling, and really vertigo-inducing viewpoints. About 2pm I breached the top of the pass, and had an extremely windy lunch looking at the Welcome to Leon sign. The pass is actually just above 1,600m, climbing from Potes (300m) for over 1,300m of climbing in one go. The biggest climb I've ever done, loaded or otherwise.
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9 months ago
The descent was incredible. I wasn't actually descending that far - only down to 1,200m - and a pretty wicked headwind stopped me speeding too much. It was the scenery that was so good - a tiny narrow gorge which I couldn't believe the N road came down. I sped down the remaining 25km to the reservoir, which was looking rather low, and circumnavigated it to get to Riano.
The campsite was immediately obvious, but was right up a 50m climb (because of course it bloody was). However, fate smiles on me again as it again costs just 12 euro and the view from my tent door over the reservoir and mountains behind looks like a postcard.
Writing this looking over the same view at a table. Plan tomorrow - to enter Asturias, via another pass at 1,500m but with *much* less climbing since I start from 1,200 today. Then I've booked a super cheap hotel near Oviedo, as it's a more populated area and I don't fancy wild camping.
After an excellent dinner, and far too many glasses of 2 euro rose wine, I wondered up to the top of the hill. They have a giant swing there, for some reason - and the views were a knockout.
Today's ride: 57 km (35 miles)
Total: 334 km (207 miles)
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