To Toro, Spain

June 20, 2023

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We continue to be very happy with our routing. The condition of the roads and lack of vehicles is appealing. I have been a little embarrassed by our lack of mileage accumulation, but, given that we flew from overseas and started riding right away, I think we've done well. Some riders might have combined those miles, but what we did was a good choice. Especially given Jacinto's gimpy knee. There's a couple of little booboo spots where we had to wander around a bit, but I hardly dare complain. So far, we are doing really well!

We were determined to arrive in town today in time to eat a hot lunch. Even though it was a short mile day, I set the alarm for 7 AM. We woke up to rain and thunder! The forecast appeared that it would pass by. We putzed around getting ready. Jacinto went downstairs for coffee and a pastry. I ate yogurt, a banana, and a hard boiled egg in the room. He eventually came back with two tortillas (baked egg dish) to go. His had shrimp and green beans. I think that's an odd combination. I tried it last night and wasn't tempted this morning. I went with the typical egg and potato. He bought two tortillas and a big-ish coffee for 6 E. We did discuss what would happen if someone came in with one of the big plastic refillable coffee cups like Jacinto uses at home, instead of the modest 4 oz size cups they have here.

It quit raining, and dried up outside. I pointed out we had better get going if we were going to arrive in time to eat lunch. We are getting efficient with our departure methods. We can get everything in one trip. That's a good thing, as it's usually a couple of floors between our room and our bikes. One thing I miss about not having my bike in the room is being able to squeeze the tires in the morning to make sure they are inflated.

Navigating through town is a continued issue for us. The streets are very close together and not labeled well. We circled around some. I did have two women about my age comment that my bike looked very 'comodo' (comfortable). I happened to be standing up to turn my bicycle around at the moment. Jacinto got a laugh out of me when I patted my rear end and said in Spanish, "I never hurt on this bicycle".

Soon enough we were out of town and on the big road. Big is a matter of definition. Traffic was infrequent. We had a 2-3 foot shoulder all of the time. The entire trip I've seen two double semis - not the full size trailers, but the smaller ones. One of those semis was on the climb up the pass, on one of the days that had the kiss your ass switch backs. I've commented several times to Jacinto that I have no idea how he could have negotiated those turns. But, he did, because after he passed me, I never saw him again.

Almost all cars that pass us are small - VW Golf, Audi A4, that size of car. We've seem a few Smart cars. I have counted three RV's, the smallest bus size ones. I have seen two pick up trucks total. If I ever needed a ride for my bicycle, it would be difficult. There are delivery vans, but I presume those are full of product. Riding on these roads feels easier, just because we aren't constantly passed by big vehicles pulling trailers. To a one, drivers have been polite in waiting behind us. Jacinto says he thinks most vehicles are stick shift, as he can sometimes hear the engines lugging as the vehicles creep along behind us on the climbs.

So far, our reports are all good concerning road conditions, route selection, and driver politeness. Something we've both noticed is that approaching drivers generally don't smile or respond to a wave. I have tried waving (as is typical for me) a thank you to vehicles overtake me from the rear. At least, my intent is to say thank you with my wave. Here, a wave brings cars to an immediate halt behind me, as if they think I'm telling them to stop. I no longer wave.

Pedestrians mostly look at me strangely. I've started smiling widely and saying 'buen dia' - perhaps 50% reply. I think they are more shocked by the sight of my odd bicycle than they are being rude. I'm continuing to do that. I think I'm a good ambassador if nothing else.

After the storm passed through this morning it left a strong wind, right in our faces. It was a slow ride today. We had wind and long, low rolling hills. I felt more tired today at the end of the ride than I did yesterday and the mileage was almost half!

I had forgotten all about the honking climb to Toro until I saw the alcazar on the edge of the cliff. Of course it would be at the top of the hill. It was a 300 foot climb. We did one section of cobblestone. That was my first experience going slowly on cobblestone. It was difficult, and really slowed me down. The next piece, I rode on the sidewalk! We had a man pull over to tell us that the road we were on would increase the gradient to 25%, perhaps we would want to take the longer, easy road. Indeed, I would!

When we got to town, we had the usual issues finding our lodging. It turns out we rode right past it, but couldn't see the sign from our direction. We did get to see the alcazar and the big church. This part of town was very quiet. I think everyone was already inside for their lunch siesta. We stopped at a restaurant for directions, and asked what time they close. It was 2:45, and they closed at 3 PM. We decided that if other restaurants closed at 3 instead of 4, we wouldn't get lunch. We ate there. It was a fancier restaurant and didn't have a menu del dia. Jacinto ordered rabo de toro (tail of the bull). When the trip was finished, he said this was his favorite meal of the entire trip. He didn't see rabo offered again.

Jacinto thinks this area is generally hot, but we sat outside on our terrace and even Jacinto was chilled. Tomorrow we ride to Zamora. It's a short day. We did have a day off a week. Then I looked at all of the climbing and we (I) decided that it would be better to sacrifice the day off and divide up the climbing. Thus, we have only two real days off the entire trip, but we do have several easy riding days. Tomorrow is one of those. Then we start climbing!

We have a queen size bed tonight with one giant pillow for the entire bed. Let's see how that goes.

In Medina Del Campo, our bikes were in the storage garage.

The castle in Medina Del Campo looks moody after the morning rain.

Most towns had a water tower and a church steeple. We could identify them from miles away, similar to grain elevators in Kansas.

I was just thinking that Spain had fields of red poppies, similar to the sunflower fields in Kansas, and what should I see but a field of sunflowers!

I had to Google - ‘Spain big wild bushes, yellow flowers, fragrant’. The answer came back gardenias. They were all over yesterday, but only in a few places today.

Jacinto rides up the granny gear cobblestone climb to the Alcazar. Of course it is at the top of the hill. Why would I think otherwise?

Is this mural from Aesops fables? It looks familiar.

The front door of the Toro church. The building was massive. It wouldn’t all fit in one photo.

We are parked in the banquet room in Toro. We are happy we limited ourselves to two panniers each, as much going up and down stairs as we’ve been doing.

The Duero Valley is famous for its wine. We cycled past many vineyards. I have been having wine with my meals. Today’s wine was 2.80E, Jacinto’s beer was 3.50E. Jacinto did ask about soda, but had to specify Coca Cola or something similar. That slowed the waiter down, apparently it was an odd request. We both went with alcohol and did manage to cycle to our lodging.

A car stopped and the man warned us that the hill ahead was 25%, perhaps we would want yo take the easier road up the hill. I made a U turn! Easier was still not defined as easy. We gained 300 feet elevation in that last little push, look at our ride map!

Looking down the 25% road we did not take. I think Jacinto wanted to give it a try, but his knee said no.

We stopped for directions in town, and ended up eating lunch here. They closed at 3 PM, and didn’t open again until 8. It was 2:45. We were afraid other restaurants in town also closed at 3. We haven’t been doing very well at getting food in the afternoon.

I am dwarfed by the giant church in Toro.

The view from our room looks down on a 12th century bridge that was recently restored. Many locals weren’t happy with the white stone, as it changed the appearance.

Another view from our terrace. We had to open the wooden doors, a slide up garage type door, and then a sliding glass door to get out on the terrace. Jacinto thinks all of that is because it gets very hot here, although we were a little chilled sitting outside.

Today's ride: 38 miles (61 km)
Total: 191 miles (307 km)

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Rachael AndersonYou are doing amazingly well and putting in plenty of miles in! And don’t underestimate the effects of jet lag.
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10 months ago

Jacquie GaudetJust catching up on your journal now, Kelly. Such an American life you’ve had! I hope you enjoyed your trip at the end.

About the wave: outside North America, a hand held up with palm forward means “stopping.” Why we do it differently in the US and Canada, I’ve no idea. It’s also the reason I signal turns by pointing in the direction I want to go with the appropriate arm straight to the side. No dainty finger pointing for me! And when Al signals a right turn with a bent left arm, I always wonder who he’s waving at!
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9 months ago