To Medina del Campo, Spain

June 19, 2023

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I slept well last night, and didn't wake up until the 7 AM alarm. We were up early, as Jacinto had talked me into an even longer riding day! Our planned route was 56 miles, but he advocated for the 60 mile route, as it would take a back road much of the way. I agreed, as long as he would ride with me.

We were at breakfast when they opened. The lady wasn't quite done setting up. It was the same food as yesterday. There was some sort of melon with green flesh and bumpy dark green skin that was extra good. As was the pineapple. Is there a reason the fruit is tastier here? Often in the US fruit is like eating juicy cardboard.

I watched the woman across from us wrap a sandwich in a napkin and place it in her purse. I didn't feel so badly about taking some hard boiled eggs and a couple of bananas for later.

The attendant was quite surprised when I gave her my plastic pitcher and asked for it to be FILLED with ice, no water. She complied. Jacinto later went back for a second one. We are going to take advantage of ice while we can.

We were out the door at 9:20 - Jacinto is doing a good job. It was 64 degrees. He was afraid he would be cold, but said he was warm all day. It was mostly overcast, so never got very hot.

Within a mile, we were at the base of the aqueduct. Within another mile, we were at the city gate. Segovia is an easy city to navigate by bicycle. Look at me say that. Then we got lost on a dirt path. It was supposed to go under the railroad, but the path dead ended. We saw a group of 8-10 children, perhaps eight years old. They were also lost and asked Jacinto if he knew where the church was. He asked them if they were alone - no, they were with the group 'over there' - with a vague wave in the distance. I guess things are done differently here. They looked like pretty little kids to be out riding alone.

We wasted four miles riding back and forth, trying to figure out how to get where we needed to go. Finally we were on the big road about four miles before getting off on Jacinto's back road. It was delightful. Sometimes it had a center line, sometimes it didn't. We went through several small towns. Navigation there was always tricky, as the street names are too small to easily read. We did a lot of back tracking in town. There didn't seem to be many people out and about. We didn't see any stores or restaurants, open or closed.

There was a strong wind. I felt it was a cross wind. Jacinto assured me it was a tail wind, and that's why we were making good time. I countered with the downhill slope on our elevation profile. Whatever the reason, it was a fine riding day. I expected to be more tired for the mileage, but came into town feeling fresh.

Our route took us right past the Coca castle. We had originally planned to spend the night here to tour the castle. It is very impressive. As it ended up, we stopped long enough for exterior photos and kept moving.

Olmedo was also confusing on a big scale. We bicycled right past the castle. It must be a good one. There were several tour buses and people everywhere. Jacinto was in the front, being the navigator. He did not see the castle at all. He did not see the crowds, or the tour buses. He was busy navigating!

Clouds were gathering and I felt several drops of rain. Jaicnto didn't feel any. The further we got into the day, the happier I was about feeling fresh. My calves were sore in the morning from all of the uphill walking.

I don't know how Jacinto rides all day and doesn't eat. I ate an apple, a hard boiled egg, and a bar - all of these while we were pedaling down the road. Jacinto was suprised when I asked him how he doesn't eat - he thought I hadn't eaten either!

I haven't seen a single potty of any kind. We've seen several Camino trails, and marker signs. No potties. That is of concern to me, as a woman of a certain age! Speaking of the Camino - leaving Segovia, there is a trail called the Via Verde that heads north. If you are open to riding on dirt, that could be a choice.

One advantage of the back road route to La Zarza, is that it looked like entering town would be easier. It certainly was! We were close to the castle (three castles in one day!), and also to our motel. We could hear thunder as we approached. I had a male cyclist call out to me in Spanish to "Hurry, rain!". I wanted to go by the castle first, but Jacinto kept going to the motel. We went inside and registered. The bikes go downstairs in the locked parking. We were on the first floor, but that was two floors to carry our panniers. I changed into shoes first, I was concerned about slipping on the marble floors.

Jacinto asked the attendant if the restaurant has food - oh, yes, there's food right now. We showered and went to eat. Guess what? They have canapés only. No hot food until 9 PM. Not even 8 PM. The joke is on us. We were so careful to make sure we could get food. I suppose we did. We both had a cold seafood dish with a variety of seafood, plus chopped onions, peppers, and olives, with vinegar and oil. It was good - but not as a main dish. Then I had a cold tortilla that had shrimp and green beans. I prefer the plain egg and potato. We shared four scoops of ice cream for dessert! I'm not sure we worked hard enough. Looking over our schedule - unless Jacinto talks me into more high mile days, this was our highest mileage day. We have a couple of easy days coming up, the better to see the sights. Then we get into climbing and stay there. The rest of the trip will be in mountainous territory. All body parts are holding up well. At this point in our lives, that is not something we take for granted!

I am easily entertained. This was at the Burger King last night. You are supposed to separate your trash for recycling. I guess people do? Hood for them!

Riding through the gate of Segovia. I wish we could have lingered here. Traffic was at a bottleneck.

Aymar’s favorite beer. We haven’t seen it in many places.

Jacinto at the dead end. Both of our GPS systems said this is a through bike path. Wrong.

New stone construction, not stick built.

In the small towns we rode through, most of the residences had curtains billowing in the doorways. Letting in a breeze, but still having privacy?

Jacinto is sitting down, but he is rolling!

What are they harvesting here? We passed three areas that had buckets set up.

Jacinto thinks this sign should be adopted in the US.

What are these towers? They were in all of the small towns.

Today's ride: 64 miles (103 km)
Total: 153 miles (246 km)

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Steve Miller/GrampiesHi Kelly - Dodie here- speaking as another woman of a certain age I can confirm that if you are waiting to pee until you find a potty you will be waiting for a very long time. Roadside shrubbery is your best friend, use it. Just look around for oncoming traffic, turn your back away from the road as discretely as possible and don't worry too much, no one else will be all that worried. I carry spare tissues/napkins/wetwipes at all times and a small plastic bag for after and have become very adept at finding small paths off the road with small bushes or trees to tuck in behind.
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10 months ago

Kelly IniguezTo Steve Miller/GrampiesHappily, the roads so far have had light car traffic, so I’ve managed to make bush stops. They have been the norm all of these years, traveling in the western USA. I’ve gotten socialized, spending the winter in Tucson. Now I think I need a potty! It’s back to the fetal life for me.
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10 months ago