To Zamora, Spain

June 21, 2023

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We went walking downtown at 8 this morning, looking for breakfast. We went in a restaurant. They didn't have meals, but I had a potato tortilla and Jacinto drank coffee. We decided to go back to the hotel and pay the 9.80E each for their buffet. That was a bad choice. We did not get our money's worth. It's a good thing we had a short, easy ride today.

Town was very, very empty. I walked over to the alcazar and the church and took some photos in the fresh morning air. I looked down at the Roman bridge. It appeared that we could ride over it. RWGPS didn't show a clear path, and we ultimately didn't try it.

When I walked back to the hotel, there was a German cyclist outside getting organized. We ran into him a couple more times during the day. He said that he did ride down the 25% hill to the bridge. He took his panniers off to get through the poles, reloaded them, rode across the bridge, and then could not get out the other side. An hour later, and he was back where he came from, at the top of the steep hill!

Pavement was once again good, with a reasonable shoulder and little traffic. We are still on the plains. We haven't seen any farm animals the entire trip. Perhaps 2-3 times. We did pass what I think must have been a dairy, based on the smell. But I didn't see cows. There were many vineyards today, we are still in wine country.

As usual, we had trouble finding our lodging once we got to town. The little streets here have no order at all. We are in a fancy place tonight that used to be a monastery. Except where our room is must be an addition. We signed up for the breakfast buffet here for 15 E each. It had better be worth it!

We hurried to shower and walked to the Plaza Mayor to look for a menu' del dia. There were several restaurants open. The first one we entered was jam packed and had a high noise level. Maybe they were having a party of some kind? Maybe the food was extra good? We ended up across the plaza at an almost empty restaurant and ate the best meal of the trip. 12E each. Jacinto drank a beer and then switched to soda. He says he's tired of beer already, even if it is the same price as water!

We walked down to see the Roman bridge - that is two Roman bridges in one day! Jacinto continued on to the castle and the cathedral. I went back to the hotel. I did not get lost, because I knew to watch for the neighboring church's spire. Google tells me that Zamora is one of the most Romanesque towns in all of Spain, with 24 Romanesque churches, among other buildings. The German cyclist said he was taking a day off here to tour everything.

Tomorrow we head to Ledesma. We are starting to get into the climbing. This was one of those days that I divided up to make the climbing more reasonable. At the time I was thinking of myself - now it might help Jacinto also. It does seem he is better, except for him better would include being able to stand up while pedaling. So, we have two shorter mile days, with more reasonable climbing than we would have had with one big push. I changed the overnights around here a little also, to try and balance mileage and climbing. This was one of those spots where Scott Anderson's advice was extra helpful.

I am sitting on the king size bed, with two pillows behind my back, wearing the provided terry robe. All for 120E - I've paid that price for questionable lodging in the USA. Both lodging and food is a good value in Spain, especially if you get to town early enough for menu' del dia. We haven't noticed any open restaurants in the small towns we've been passing through. It's a bit odd how few people we see. They must be home for the afternoon siesta?

I am easily entertained. Or puzzled. Soap is dispensed by squeezing.

This German touring cyclist was also at our lodging. He was on a 14 week tour. This is a poor photo, taken when he was bending over to get his water bottle. He had 35 KG’s on his bike, including three heavy duty locks and a spare tire.

The Roman bridge as seen from the Alcazar.

The Alcazar in Toro was next door to our lodging.

Looking back up at Toro, you can see the Alcazar and church.

The door says castle. The wall goes all the way around. It’s a mystery.

Our room in Zamora was extra large and deluxe. It even came with robes and slippers.

This has the typical shower door that makes it hard to get in and out of the tub. This one at least swings to make it easier.

Jacinto was a captive audience and paid 2.80 for a pop at the hotel.

We got to the restaurant just before close. We at the menu del dia for 12E each. My starter was a Russian Salad. Jacinto had seafood soup. This was the best meal I’ve had in Spain. My main dish was fish in a cream sauce with the always served fried potatoes.

A stork detail. You need a real camera to photograph them. This adult was feeding the baby.

I like how the arches show at this angle.

The castle and the cathedral. The castle is in ruins and doesn’t have a roof.

Today's ride: 21 miles (34 km)
Total: 212 miles (341 km)

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George HallYou have certainly had an interesting time finding anything to eat. My only European experience in cycling was in Germany, and there were always plenty of cafes even in the smaller towns. I loved the little bakeries open in the mornings that had sandwiches as well as pastries and great coffee. I'm not sure I could survive very well with the Spanish schedule regarding when restaurants serve food. Sounds like you better always have some food with you just in case. I'm living vicariously and enjoying following your adventure, best of luck with the remainder!
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10 months ago

Rachael AndersonI’m so glad things are going well for you! I really enjoy reading your journal.
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10 months ago

Kelly IniguezTo George HallWe aren't doing very well at carrying food with us. I wanted apples and bananas from the fruiteria next door. It was open when we got here. Then closed when we came back from lunch. I thought it would be open again tonight, but it isn't. I like an apple halfway through my daily ride, but have had trouble accomplishing that this trip.

Bananas are very hard to come by, oddly. Even Jacinto isn't carrying food, because when we do eat a late lunch, we are starving and eat it all. Rooms don't have a fridge or microwave. They just don't. There's a learning curve to all of this. The actual cycling is wonderful. check back in with me when the real climbing starts!
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10 months ago