To Dorfgastein

September 21, 2021

We’ve put some thought into how to tackle the ride south from Salzburg. There are three climbs of note, and based on the experience of others and consultation with our aging engines we decided to break the ride into three short stages and take on a single climb each day. We’re in no hurry and we might as well take our time through here.

Yesterday’s climb through Pass Lueg is the least of the three - particularly if you’re crafty and come through on a day when it’s closed for construction and manage to time your ride to catch a shuttle bus. Really, we hardly noticed yesterday’s climb at all.

Today’s ride covers the climbs south of Schwarzach im Pongau, which we expect to be significantly more painful - Ben Parke says we’re entitled to kudos if we bike up nonstop. And, curse the luck, the road is open and the weather is fair today so we have no excuses but to ride. Truth be known, it wouldn’t have broken our hearts back in Salzburg to have seen a couple of days of solid rain in the forecast and had a decent excuse to just catch the train straight through to the top.

We’re booked to stay in Dorfgastein tonight, only 26 miles away - a short enough distance that it gives us no reason to hurry out the door. It’s cold this morning so we take our time and don’t leave our hotel until 10, the latest checkout time available. The first fifteen miles of the day are a pleasant, easy ride as the route hugs the bank of the Salzach the whole way, passing through a few villages and alternating between paved and very rideable unpaved paths.

Leaving Werfen we cross the Salzach and look back a last time at the Hohenwerfen on the ridge behind it. We were lucky to have had that bit of clearing last night to have been able to appreciate the surrounding mountains, because they’re under wraps this morning.

We’re just below the dam above Werfen and at the top of what must be a fine rafting stretch. In addition to this packed raft there are two others putting in on the other side of the bridge behind us. Also on the bridge with us is what must be a professional photographer, set up with his camera and tripod waiting for his hoped-for customers to come under.

As we bike south Rachael experiments with one of the features of her new GoPro: it includes a voice-activated option to take still photos. From time to time I hear behind me “GoPro, Take Photo!”, my cue to refrain from blowing my nose for a moment.

There are at least three dams across the Salzach in these first fifteen miles, presumably for flood control. Behind each of them the water is still and reflective.

Passing through one of the quiet towns along the way - Bischofshofen, most likely. Or at least it would be quiet if I wasn’t being pursued by some mad woman shouting at her camera all the time.

We’re briefly drawn off route here to check out this attractive bridge. Just Rocky’s kind of ride - she likes out and backs.

The view from the bridge. It’s still chilly but we’re starting to get a bit of warmth from the sun.

Another dam, another pause for reflection.

It looks like preschool is back in session.

In Saint Johann im Pongau. I sure hope I don’t lose this Bike Gallery jersey like I did the previous one. They went out of business last year so it’s irreplaceable.

Just past Saint Johann we stop for a snack at a roadside bench; and a short distance later we pass through Schwarzach, cross the Salzach once more, and begin the real work of the day - a series of steep climbs that lift us high up on a shoulder that crowds the left bank. It’s not a long climb but once it starts it’s relentlessly steep, climbing about five hundred feet in the next 2/3 of a mile and sticking between 11 and 14% the whole way according to our Garmins. It’s painful, and a relief when we finally top out. And a disappointment when another short 10 percenter soon follows, and then another.

Looking down on the Salzach far below it, and Schwarzach im Pongau on the opposite bank. At the bottom, just right of center, you can see the bridge across the Salzach. After that it’s all up.

The climb comes with compensations. No pain, no gain.

We painfully roll along the top of this plateau for about five miles, cross a high bridge over the Gasteiner Ache dizzyingly far below, and then come to the second significant feature of the day: the Klamm Tunnel.

Looking straight down at the Gasteiner Ache, which must be nearly five hundred feet below. Dizzying. It gives me a head Ache.

Immediately past the bridge we enter the tunnel; and surprisingly soon after we’re out the other side. Surprisingly because I’d thought it was quite a long tunnel. This isn’t it though. This is a pre-tunnel, or a tunnellette (not a word yet I don’t believe, but I expect it to fall into wide usage soon).

In the first Klamm Tunnellette (there’s a matching one at the far end of the main event). The sound in this one isn’t too bad - it’s short, and traffic is unidirectional.

Another few hundred yards on we come to the real Klamm Tunnel, and for the next mile we burrow through the mountains, deafened by the constant roar of traffic noise echoing in the long shaft. Thinking back, this may be the longest tunnel we’ve ever biked through. There’s one back in Japan that comes to mind, but I’ll have to check my notes on that.

Looking back on the Klamm Tunnel and what it spared us. Thanks, Klamm!

And that’s the work for the ride. It’s an easy cruise the rest of the way (now along the Gasteiner Ache; we’ve finally left the Salzach) to our day’s destination, tiny Dorfgastein. We’re too early to check in so we stop at the cafe right next door to fill in some time and digestive organs.

Video sound track: Air, by Jesse Cook

In Dorfgastein, enjoying a classic combo meal: rhubarb strudel and a Weißbier.

Wengerbauer, our home in Dorfgastein. We’re in the aerie, three steep flights up. Rachael has to duck down to get to her side of the bed and remember to not brain herself when she gets up in the night.

The look up. Actually, this would be a nice spot to stay and take a hike if we’d planned an extra day here. But then, those stairs to our room would get old.

Heart

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Patrick O'HaraGood choice not to do Grossglockner Pass. That one will forever go down in our memories as a grunt of a climb on fully loaded bikes. Enjoying your writing and photos immensely. Tail Winds.
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2 years ago

Scott AndersonTo Patrick O'HaraAt this stage in life, Grossgluckner never crossed our minds. We were planning on riding it back in the fall of 1994 but were deterred by an early snowfall.
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2 years ago

Patrick O'HaraTo Scott AndersonI totally understand.
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2 years ago

Ride stats today: 26 miles, 1,800’; for the tour: 1,359 miles, 46,500’

Today's ride: 26 miles (42 km)
Total: 1,359 miles (2,187 km)

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Suzanne GibsonLooks like you had blue skies for mountain panoramas. Hopefully today, too! Great video with Gopro!
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2 years ago

Ben ParkeDefinite respect for riding up that nasty hill past Schwarzach. Going the other direction it’s not so bad. I remember going down that hill into Schwarzach watching cyclist after cyclist walking their not-even-loaded bikes up that hill. Great views from the top though!
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2 years ago

Rachael AndersonTo Suzanne GibsonThanks.
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2 years ago