To Cuneo

October 16, 2021

Cuneo is the end point of our tour up the Po and through the Piemonte. And, it’s at the end of both - surrounded to the south and west by mountains, it’s as far as you can go in this direction without going up.

There are several options for how to bike to Cuneo from Saluzzo but we pick what looks apt to be the most scenic one, following the base of the hills south as they rim the valley. It’s a good choice - a beautiful ride, often very quiet and peaceful, and not too difficult. The weather is fantastic today for this time of year - it’s cold when we start out, but heats up quickly under the full sun and the outer layers are quickly shed for the day.

Leaving Saluzzo, looking up at some ridge-top palace.

Crossing the Variana Valley, we look west into the mountains. This would be an awesome route into France over 9000’ Col Agnel, which is still open. A shame we’ve already booked an apartment in Cuneo, or we’d have been sorely tempted.

Crossing the Variata, I think. All of these nascent rivers are just streams now spilling down from the Alps, and all eventually become feeders to the Po.

Looking down to the basin from the high point of the day, such as it was.

Looking back up at the descent from the big climb of the day. Short but steep, 17% on both sides.

As soon as we get a hundred feet off the valley floor we’re out of the corn fields.

Looking west toward the border with France. Wonderful to have a clearer day today.

No visual cues this time. See if you can spot Rocky without the helpful arrow to guide you.

The church at Castelleto Busca. We grabbed a bench beside the road here and stopped for lunch.

These three squealing girls were a delight, as was the mother with the fourth girl, pushing her along on her kiddy bike with trainer wheels. A nice parade to watch while we enjoyed our lunch.

I waited here for Rachael so I could catch a shot of her descending down this narrow hairpin. The entire time I waited the road was empty. Then as soon as she came in sight the van rounded the bend, crowding her by taking nearly all of the road; then the other biker arrived. With me ahead as yet another distraction, it was all a little too busy for comfort.

As we near Cuneo the mountain views become steadily more impressive.

A hop field reminds us that we’re at about the same latitude as the mid-Willamette Valley. I like this rustic look, using unmilled saplings.

Another first. I don’t recall ever seeing chestnuts grown as a row crop before; but maybe I’ve just never seen this at the right season so I was aware of it.

Pretty nutty part of the world. Here we have walnuts. I hear a few fall to earth with a thud as I bike past, and am glad I’m wearing a helmet.

Looking west again, but up a different pass through the mountains. You could stay in the region for a week or more and find a different alpine route every day.

Video sound track: Air, by Jesse Cook

This morning we let our host in Cuneo know that we’d arrive around two, but would call when we got closer. It wasn’t a firm time commitment - or at least I didn’t mean it as such - so we’re in no particular rush. At a few minutes after two though Rachael receives a call. It’s our host Stefania, who’s already at the apartment waiting for our arrival. Feeling under pressure from two directions, imagining Stefania tapping her foot impatiently at the apartment and Rachael seething over all the time we’ve spent waiting for me and the camera, I make the best of it and set a fast pace for the last seven miles and we make it in around 2:30.

Stefania’s fine. She’s warm and welcoming, and has a terrific apartment to show us. We could live here pretty contentedly, but since that’s not possible now we’ll do the next best thing: we’re taking a six day break here to take day rides, hike, enjoy an obviously fine city, study the weather forecasts, and plot out how to spend the last two weeks of the tour.

In Bernezzo, Rachael stops for a call. It’s our host, waiting for us at our apartment in a Cuneo. We’re still seven miles away.

We’re in the region at a festive time of year. In Alba it was the white truffle festival. Here, it’s chestnuts.

In the classic pose, this pointer alerts his owners to the presence of a dog passing on the other side of the glass.

In Osteria dei Colori. We were lucky to get in, and are seated at a tiny round table beside a shelf filled with half bottles from the region. Easy to sit there, look at the row of labels, and make a choice. Nebbiolo tonight.

Those chestnut roasters. Not tonight, but we’re going to have to buy a sack of them before we leave town.

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Ride stats today: 32 miles, 1,800’; for the tour: 2,144 miles, 76,600‘

Today's ride: 32 miles (51 km)
Total: 2,144 miles (3,450 km)

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Suzanne GibsonLooks like you are in for six days of fine weather in Cuneo, too. Almost good enough to warrant a trip from Munich! Great place to start winding down from your months on the road.
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2 years ago

Scott AndersonTo Suzanne GibsonYou’re right! Hop in the car and you could be here tonight! Actually the weather looks like it will be fine around for almost a full two weeks. Must be the best spot in Europe at the moment. Have you ever toured in this region?
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2 years ago

Suzanne GibsonWe never toured there, but Janos has traveled there driving the sag for his friends. If it weren't for my commitment to taichi, we really might consider a quick trip to the region. Taichi school closes for fall vacation which would make a trip possible as of 27 October, but by then you will be gone and most likely the good weather as well.
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2 years ago

Scott AndersonTo Suzanne GibsonPretty sure you’re right about the weather. It will be fine, until it isn’t. It changed almost overnight when we were here three years ago and suddenly it was cold, damp and wet for weeks if not until spring.
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2 years ago

Andrea BrownWhat a beautiful ride today. Once again, thanks for bringing us along.
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2 years ago