Cortina to Canazei. - Dyn-o-mite In The Dolomites 2022 - CycleBlaze

July 18, 2022

Cortina to Canazei.

Passo Giau and Passo Fedaia

Strava and RideWithGPS differ in their elevation calculations. Strava says: 2073m of elevation. RWGPS says: 2267m of elevation. Either way, it was a hard day.
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Getting out in nature for long walks is something humans need.  We are both convinced of it.  It gives one's self the time to decompress and get away from the 'business' that often occupies our minds.  It provides us with time to process and think; or not think at all for that matter, and it rejuvenates the heart and soul.  It can also be a conduit for self reflection, problem solving and putting oneself back into some state of equilibrium.  Ask anyone who has ever been for a walk in the forest, or in a field, or a stroll by a body of water and they will tell you the same thing.  No one has ever felt worse after a walk in nature.  That's a fact.  Go try it yourself, and you'll see.

During our hike yesterday, Sue and I both thought and reflected upon today's big cycling day.  Sue was a little anxious about the whole thing, and questioned if she was up to the physical effort required to get over Passo Giau and Fadaia with fully loaded bikes.  I never doubted that she could do it.  She's one tough cookie.  In fact, she already had; in 2016 for that matter.  We have cycled over both of these passes before.  Giau with fully loaded bikes and Fedaia without gear.  But, that was then.

But, like I said earlier, sometimes being in nature allows you to think outside the box and problem solve.  So, Sue posed the following question amidst walking in the alpine flowers:  "I wonder if we can get our panniers transported to our next destination in Canazei so we don't have to carry them?"  As, you have probably already deduced, Sue is the brighter, more thoughtful, and more logical one of the two of us, and I was immediately on board for this simple idea.

This 'aha moment' set into motion an immediate plan of action.   The obvious questions arose: How and by what method are we going to be able to make this happen?

First, we went to the bike tour companies to see if they could transport our luggage.  No luck.  Then, we thought about DHS courier services, but this would take at least a couple of days since it was Sunday. Finally, we went to the local taxi company.   That was it.  We got a price, arranged a pickup time the next morning, and, 'Voila';  we are baggage free for this big ride.  And, writing this now after the fact, it was money well spent.

All went to plan.  The taxi driver arrived at 8:30am, we loaded our bags and noticed the confused expression on his face when neither of us got into the vehicle.  Somehow this may have been lost in translation, but it didn't phase him.  We provided him with the hotel address of our destination and that was it.  We were luggage free.

Our time in Cortina has come to an end, for now.  Who knows if we will be ever back this way again some day?  As we climbed out of the valley we took one final glance back and bid arrivederci to Cortina.

Sue climbing on the right hairpin on the lower slopes of our climb to Passo Giau. Parts of the lower climb were nicely shaded from the 30+ degree weather we have been having.
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We brought only the essentials on this climb.  A rain jacket, a windbreaker and a warmer layer; and, of course, the essential tools for repairing a flat.  Even though the weather was perfect, you never can really predict what the weather is going to do in the mountains.  Besides, once above 2000m it can be quite chilly, even though in the valley today the temperatures were 30+ degrees.   It is much better to be prepared than to be stuck.   As a side note, so many foolish people venture off into the North Shore mountains where we live who are utterly unprepared for the weather and changing conditions in the mountains, and some of them lose their lives because of it.  Our amazing volunteers at North Shore Search and Rescue are overworked and their resources are stretched because people fail to take the essentials when venturing off into these areas.  And, this seems to be happening with increasing frequency, sadly.

I'm one switchback ahead of her here, looking down on Sue climbing with an incredible backdrop. Take a look at that!
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Out of the trees and into the subalpine. Sue climbing on the left up around 1900m on route to Passo Giau.
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To provide some perspective, the climb to Passo Giau from the Cortina side of the valley is 15.8km long and gains 1061 vertical meters with an average gradient of 6.7%.  This is quite a nice and manageable little climb.  Sue and I love the 5-7% climbs.  Anything getting above 9-10% gets tough.  And, anything above 12% is downright miserable.

Roadside break with the thistles.
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Passo Giau tops out left of that Dolomitic tower. Still a ways to go.
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You can just make out the refugio at the top and the line of cars.
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Panorama looking north towards Cortina.
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We're so close. Had to stop for for this shot. The tower summit is called Ra Gusela. Passo Giau is perhaps one of the most scenic passes in Europe, in our opinion. You can see the cars far left, and the trail snaking its way to the base of the tower.
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Ra Gusela tower.
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Me. Passo Giau.
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We generally like to take the summit shot with the Passo sign and elevation behind us, but today there is no point. The sign is completely covered with stickers.
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What we love about the mountain passes in Europe is that you will always find a refugio at the top.  All of these places serve food and drinks, and many of them are also small inns or hotels where you can stay.

It was time to get out those layers.  It was downright chilly, with a cold wind blowing from the opposite side of the pass.  We didn't linger too long.  Our thoughts were occupied by the next big task of the day.  Passo Fedaia.

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Panorama from the top of Giau.
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Down we go.
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Down, down, down. It's a shame we lose all of the elevation, only to have to gain it all back again once we hit Caprille.
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Strudel break in Caprille.
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Once back down to an elevation of 1000m in Caprille, the heat became downright oppressive.  Sue coyly and playfully expressed the sentiment that she was done for the day; it was too hot for climbing mountains, and can't we just stop here?  I replied:  "Look on the bright side.  Once we get back up to above 2000m, we'll be nice and cool again."  And, with a sneer coming from her direction, we set off to climb Fadaia.

Passo Fedaia is a more serious climb.  It kind of lulls you into thinking it's going to be fine, until it's not.  The climb out of Caprille begins innocently enough with the first 8kms having an average grade of about 6-7%.  It's the last 4 kms that are of the miserable sort, whereby the gradient never dips below 12%.  

Double checking our elevation profile for Fedaia. Yep. Looks painful.
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This guy was scooting across the road, so I scooted him back. Is it a viper or adder?
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Scott AndersonWow! Great find. Viper is berus (European adder or viper), I think. Also, based on coloration it’s probably a goal - the gals are brown, the guys gray. I was surprised to see that they can be found up to 3,000 meters in the Swiss Alps.
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1 year ago
Patrick O'HaraTo Scott AndersonI recognized it from your last snake encounter. I learned from your journal that it was venomous, so I paid respects by scooting it along with my bike tire. So. Thanks for your informative writing.
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1 year ago
Bill ShaneyfeltGood job scooting it off! So many would have stoned it.
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1 year ago
Hundreds of sheep and a few rogue goats cascaded over the hill like running water. It was amazing to observe and hear the mass of hundreds of sheep chomping grass.
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A look down at our climb. This is the hard part.
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Rachael AndersonWow, what a great photo!
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1 year ago
Patrick O'HaraThanks Rachael. Great photo. Tired legs. LOL.
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1 year ago
Marmolada. The highest peak in the Dolomites.
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Another look at the glaciers on Marmolada.
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We made it to the craziness of Canazei, and were surprised at the volume of traffic and the amount of people.  Looks to be a happening little place and a popular tourist destination.  I'll report back tomorrow and let you know all about it.  Well.  That's all I'm going to write for now.  Time for food, and a nap.  A big day.  But, a great one.

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Scott AndersonWhat an awesome day! We’ve never ridden this route but either pass looks astonishing. Brilliant idea to taxi the ballast forward.
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1 year ago
Patrick O'HaraIt was the best thing to do. Sue actually thought about getting in with the gear, but somehow I convinced her that the torturous day would be more fun.
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1 year ago
David MathersAnother great collection of pictures…love the panorama shots. Your luggage transfer solution is brilliant…way to go Susanna!
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1 year ago
Patrick O'HaraHi David. Thanks for writing and thanks for the compliment. It's hard to take bad photos around here. The luggage transfer saved the day. Where's next for you guys? You're on the island, right?
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1 year ago
David MathersYes, we're in Victoria. Puglia(our 2020 plan), Spain and the Dolomites are all on the list right now. Watching the Tour also puts the Alps back in play and after we watch the Pyrenees stages they'll probably be on the list too! Nice to dream.
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1 year ago
Jacquie GaudetYou're making me wish we'd ridden Passo Giau when we left Cortina for Caprile! Oh well, we will just have to go back someday. We tried to do a luggage transfer to the top of Stelvio, but no luck. I suppose we could have found a taxi, but never inquired.
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1 year ago
Patrick O'HaraGood on ya for riding Stelvio with loaded bikes. That's where we got the luggage transfer idea. We got our gear dropped off at the top of Stelvio in 2014. Kudos to you.
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1 year ago
Patrick O'HaraTo David MathersHey David. Sounds like you've got some plans. All worthy contenders for upcoming tours. So exciting to dream.
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1 year ago
Rachael AndersonI agree 100% with you about taking walks and hiking in nature. Great idea about getting your luggage transferred. The ride looked amazing.
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1 year ago
Patrick O'HaraTo Rachael AndersonHi Rachael. I know from following you guys for many years now, that you are a person who truly needs to get out for long walks and rides. Keeps you guys young!
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1 year ago
Rachael AndersonTo Patrick O'HaraDefinitely!
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1 year ago