In Dinan - Three Seasons Around France: Autumn - CycleBlaze

September 21, 2022 to September 22, 2022

In Dinan

It was a last minute impulsive decision to stay in Dinan for three nights.  Previously we were booked for an apartment here for two nights and then two nights at a hotel in Saint-Malo, but we decided we’d like a longer stay in an apartment so we dropped the first night from Saint-Malo.

It was a stroke of either brilliance or good luck, for two reasons.  First of course Dinan is an exceptional place, one that’s immediately appealing.  It’s a town that makes me think back on how infatuated we were with Narbonne when we first visited it.

The main reason it was such a good decision though was an less positive one.  The sore throat I was experiencing days ago was still with me when we biked into town on Tuesday, and by Wednesday morning had worsened and I was starting to lose my voice.  Other than feeling a bit fatigued that was the extent of my symptoms; and though it felt pretty much like a common cold it turns out that those are two of the classic symptoms of the Omicron variation.

So the fact that we found ourselves in an apartment was perfect timing for self-isolation.  The unit even came with a couch so I could maintain some distance from Rachael, and the necessary facilities so that we could order take-out and eat in while we monitored both of our symptoms to see which way this was going to go.

So the first part of our stay was pretty uninteresting for me - sleep, hydrate, read, eat, sleep, hydrate, trip to the loo, sleep.  Oh, and take a photo - of the bikes on the balcony, their shadows projected on the shades by the streetlights across the street.  Exciting stuff.

The laid-back life in Dinan.
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The good news here is that I appear to have contracted a very mild case of whatever the hell I have, because by day five I’m starting to feel close to normal again.  The sore throat is gone, my voice is working its way back to normal, my energy level is almost normal again, and no new symptoms have appeared.  From my research this looks like a common omicron life cycle for folks who’ve been vaccinated and don’t have other significant health issues - the mean duration for symptoms is around 4-5 days, which is significantly shorter than with delta and the earlier variations.

The additional good news is that Rachael doesn’t show any signs of picking it up from me, as she should have by now because omicron has such a short incubation period.  We have different theories on this, but it seems quite possible that she contracted it first and was either asymptomatic or had such mild symptoms that they didn’t seem any different than her usual breathing issues.  It’s interesting that while I slept she went our for a thirteen mile hike yesterday and fifteen today, and feels great - in fact maybe the best she’s felt in a week.  

By today I felt well enough that I took a slow walk through town to see what I was missing, masked and keeping well distanced from anyone else.  Just enough to get some exercise and to see what an enticing place Dinan is.  It’s another town we’re going to have to make it back to someday.

15th century Saint-Julien’s Tower is one of six towers of the city’s ramparts, the oldest parts of which date back to the 13th century.
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The portal of Saint-Malo Cathedral, one of the two important historical churches in town - the other, Saint-Saveur, is only a few blocks away. The fact that two existed reflects the town’s history when there were two halves overseen by different lords. I’m surprised I can’t find any explanation for why the door contains Hebrew characters.
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A narrow house on the Grand Rue.
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Keith AdamsIf they tax property by the frontage foot, the owner gets a good deal. Other than that, yowza!
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2 months ago
Lucy MartinI love a good spite house
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2 months ago
Disciples of Kathleen Classen perhaps, who recommends looking up often.
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With good reason. Some of the most interesting details are often a few stories up.
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On the Grand Rue.
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On Rue du Jezual, the steep street that drops down to the port area. It’s a fascinating street, lined with shops and ancient half-timbered houses. Every structure on the street is worth a double take.
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On Rue du Jezual.
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ann and steve maher-wearyLove the look of this town.
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2 months ago
An impressively padlocked door.
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On Rue du Jezual.
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On Rue du Jezual.
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On Rue du Jezual.
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Keith AdamsCuriously asymmetric windows, laterally. Interesting too that the upper set are larger than those below.
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2 months ago
Because it just seemed like there should be a bike in the post.
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Classic pedals and chain ring.
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Jezual Gate, the entrance to the walled town from the port.
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The view to the end of Rue du Jezual, from the Old Dinan Bridge.
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The port along the Rance, from the Old Dinan Bridge.
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The Old Dinan Bridge.
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The view from the Old Dinan Bridge.
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Along the Rance.
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A window in Dinan.
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A view along the ramparts.
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Saint Saveur Basilica. The grounds in front are Le Jardin Anglais, named for The English Colony, the society of hundreds of English-speaking people who moved to Dinan in the 19th century.
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In Le Jardin Anglais: four panels of an exhibition of photographs by David Sauveur, currently a Dinan resident. The collection (Hazaras, the Forgotten People of Aghanistan) from his stay there in 2006.
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In Dinan.
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In Dinan.
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The 15th century clock tower, originally a watch tower, is the highest point in the city. If you’re here at the right time of year you can climb up its steps for what must be an outstanding view over the city.
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The Keratry Mansion, built in 1559 and moved to Dinan in 1935 when Dinan bought it from the small town of Lanvollon.
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Keith AdamsHuh. There's a story behind that transaction and move, I'm betting.
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2 months ago
ann and steve maher-wearySo interesting. I agree with Rich, I wonder how they got Lanvollon to give it up.
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2 months ago
The Keratry Mansion.
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Now a performing arts center, the Jacobins Theatre was originally a convent established in 1232.
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In Dinan.
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In Dinan. With its over 130 half-timbered houses, it must be one of the best preserved medieval towns in France.
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In Dinan.
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In Dinan.
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Comment on this entry Comment 13
Suzanne GibsonGood to hear you are on the mend, Scott! Did you do a test? I guess it's not necessary, most important is that you have recovered from whatever infection it was. Good to hear that you are okay, Rachel, maybe even recovered, who knows.
I love the looks of Dinan, I want to go there next summer. There and so many other places you have shown, just not hilly Britain (even if it is beautiful).
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2 months ago
Polly LowVery sorry to hear about the covid (if that’s what it is/was): I hope the speedy recovery continues!
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2 months ago
Scott AndersonTo Polly LowThanks, Polly. Yes, recovery is continuing apace. I feel considerably better again this morning. My voice is fully back and I’m pretty well down to some minor congestion. Lucky.

Congrats on conquering Stelvio!!
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2 months ago
Scott AndersonTo Suzanne GibsonNo, I didn’t see much point in being tested to see I was sick. I decided to wait a day and sleep on it to see if symptoms improved or worsened. Thankfully they improved and continue to do so.

Yes, you should definitely go to Dinan. So should we again before too long.
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2 months ago
Rich FrasierGood to hear you're on the mend, Scott. And good to hear that Rachael didn't catch it!
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2 months ago
Scott AndersonTo Rich FrasierThanks, Rich. I feel nearly normal today. We’re feeling really lucky - about that anyway. We’re a little more anxious about our train ride to Angouleme though. Something went wrong about our TGV tickets and they don’t have bike space for us. God thing they’re folders, because they’ve let us put them in the stairwell. We’ll see what happens next though when we transfer at Montparnasse.
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2 months ago
ann and steve maher-wearyTo Suzanne GibsonYes glad to hear you are feeling better
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2 months ago
Keith ClassenGlad you are feeling better. Not much fun being sick on the road. Just a matter of time before we all catch that thing.
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2 months ago
Carolyn van HoeveThankfully you’re feeling better! It’s always a small fear lurking at the back of our minds that covid could be a possibility on the road. Great that you’ve managed to avoid after all this time and happily a mild case!
We’re in Pont-en-Royans. Every day so far a wonderful experience! And we seem to be getting some of the Anderson’s weather gods on our side. Feeling lucky!
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2 months ago
Rachael AndersonTo Carolyn van HoeveI’m really glad you are getting good weather and enjoying your tour! I’m crossing my fingers that it continues.
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2 months ago
Scott AndersonTo Carolyn van HoeveThanks, Carolyn. I think it’s just a matter of time for us all really. We did well to avoid it for this long, and by now it’s gotten less virulent than those fist scary two years. It really felt like catching a cold in my case.

You’re in the Vercors! Isn’t France the most astonishing country though? So much diversity.
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2 months ago
Scott AndersonTo Keith ClassenThanks, Keith. I think you’re right - it’s just a matter of time for us all now. We did well to have stayed clean for this long and escaping the earliest, scariest variations.
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2 months ago
Keith ClassenTo Scott AndersonYes and you guys kept on trucking while we were hiding under the covers. Interesting we haven’t had so much as cold for over 2 years now and usually I would get 2 or 3 of those a year. Shouldn’t jinx ourselves!
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2 months ago