June 24, 2023
Day 55 - Indonesia - a border crossing, a big climb and turning down an offer to sleep with a trainee Catholic priest
I didn't ask myself "I wonder what will unfold today?" and if I had I'd probably believe it because this is what happens when you travel.
The internet was good when I woke so I got stuck in and did the Balibo entry. I wanted to be at the border early so that I could cross, get money, sort out my phone and so forth. I could not find the opening time so gave up the early start and wandered down there at 8, only to find that it opens at 9 (8 on the Indonesian side thanks to the time difference).
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It was a typical border crossing. I had to put my bags through x-rays on both sides. I wheeled my bike in on the Timor Leste side and carried only half my bags in on the Indonesian side. As I rode out, the motorcycle money changers jumped on me but with a very poor deal. They couldn't be swayed so I rode off with no rupiah. I was dead lazy and took a red-tie selfie. So much happening that I forgot my indigo shirt.
It was beautiful coastal scenery for 25 km before the road turned south. I knew what that meant.
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There were any number of stalls selling fish, especially bonito. I usually buy something and then ask for a photo. I didn't want to cycle with a bonito....
All religious building were churches not mosques. Some were most attractive. By day's end I had not seen a mosque or heard the call.
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And so, in the heat of the day and without rupiah (a couple of ATMS didn't like me) or a useful phone, I headed up a colossus. The descending motorcyclists had their engines turned off; what more did I need to know? I plugged away and finally cracked the top and a little later reached Atambua. I got a million rupiah at the fourth attempt, grabbed food and got directions to a phone shop, where Vikki sorted out my Telcomcel plan - very kind of him. I figured out the road towards Kupang and celebrated everything with a coffee. I had done 42 km and wondered whether I could find another 54 to Halilulik. Of course I could! I pushed hard and stopped only for photos, food and water.
Here's a bunch of random photos.
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10 months ago
It was 5.30 when I got to Halelulik. How could I not sing Hale-lu-lik, Hale-lu-lik, Hale-lu-lik, HALLE-LU-JAH? First thing food. I succeded and ate two plates of rice, tofu, tempeh and vegetables washed down with two cups of sweet tea. It was here that I met an overzealous trainee Catholic priest who offered accommodation. I had established already that there's no hotel here.
So, I thought I'd do an inspection. The large family were obviously poor and all males smoked from age 10 up. Using Google Translator, I explained to my man, whose name escapes me, that smoking is terrible. He disagreed! Google Translator helped once more when he showed me the sleeping arrangements - a double bed with him! I typed in "My wife does not like me sleeping with other people".
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10 months ago
I decided to seek alternative accommodation and now reside in an office in the police station, using my sleeping mat, etc. They wouldn't give me a cell! But they did install a light bulb and let me use WiFi. What a difference! And who should turn up here? My Catholic priest-to-be. At that point I wheeled my bike into the room and locked the door.
Today I traveled!
Today's ride: 98 km (61 miles)
Total: 4,543 km (2,821 miles)
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10 months ago