Day 54 - A day trip to Balibo - Unfinished Business

June 23, 2023

Day 54 - A day trip to Balibo

I was in my last month of school when the Balibo 5 - Australian reporters and cameramen were murdered by the Indonesian military after filming a cross-border incursion prior to the invasion. My father, a journalist, pointed out that it broke the law of not targeting the media during conflict. Thus I had a moral obligation to visit Balibo. Interestingly, in recent conflicts, reporters have been targeted.

It was about 8 that I walked back into Batugade's main feature - a roundabout, with the intention of hitching to Balibo. I knew that the road was rough and, for the second half, steep. This meant that a haul up on a bicycle would not win an exhilarating descent, so hitching was a good option. In about 5 minutes, I was in the back of a ute with three people and a 40 kg pig that did not enjoy the rough road.

You wouldn't find a nicer pig with which to travel.

I went straight to Balibo House and as I was getting my bearings I heard an Australian voice. It belonged to Michele, who volunteers here at the Balibo 5 Community Learning Centre with daughter, Angelika.

The restored Balibo 5 House or Australian Flag House where the reporters were staying.

They invited me for a coffee and kindly fed me too. I soon learnt about the complexity of Balibo. Apparently, it's conservative in many ways and, being close to the Indonesian border, has historically been more pro-Indonesia than places further afield. Michele gave me a tour of the house, including the dental clinic. Sugary drinks are wreaking havoc on the teeth of youngsters. Michele told me about the fort. It is now leased to a Malaysian conglomerate, who seem less interested in training locals than were their predecessors pre-COVID. It sounds as though there is an emphasis on making money.

Anjelika and Michele in front of a mural near their one-bedroom house.

Michele's Timorese flag. Some locals weren't happy about Michele, a woman, painting.

The dental clinic sponsored by, among others, Dental Health Services Victoria.

Great to see! It's a pity it took a tragedy to elicit such aid. Timor Leste is our nearest neighbour!

Far more knowledgeable after our chat and tour inside, I explored more of Balibo including the outside of the house. The Balibo 5 had painted the Australian flag on the visible walls to protect themselves. The flags faded as the building decayed but there is a replica of one.

The replica Australian flag encased above the faded original.

It's widely reported that the Balibo 5 were murdered in this house. However, Michele says the locals point to another house - a more logical destination if running from the fort.

It was probably to this house that the reporters tried to flee

I walked up to the 400 year-old Balibo Fort, now a fancy hotel but part museum. I could have stayed here for the discounted price of US$110 and eaten a $20 pizza. A young couple were dining as I looked at the exhibition, much about WW2. The Timorese lost thousands as they helped the small Australian contingent. After taking some photos, I wandered back down the road where the Balibo 5 fled. A World Vision car passed with the youngsters sitting in the back!

Balibo was another place where the Indonesians gave the locals a symbolic gift.

Apparently, this statue is about unity after the Portuguese era. There's a reference to "27". It was being painted - by men, of course.

I bought bread, bananas and tomatoes and sat in the shade of the giant banyan. The school day was ending so I got many "hello misters". Good to see young girls kicking a ball.

I went to see Balibo due to the tragedy of October 12, 1975. But there's much more that you can do here including cultural tours and outdoor activities. You can save yourself a motza with a homestay, thus keeping the money in the community.

Something for the Friday riders. I think it's a touch steeper than the poster implies!

I got a lift back with Julio, a driver for an American NGO. He drives medical teams around to vaccinate against COVID. We took selfies.

I walked back to my accommodation and then returned to town to eat before the final 1.5 km return. Like last night, children were practicing a martial art each time I passed. What does it matter if it's pitch black?

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Joel KrewazSuperb diarising/blogging/journaling Ian. Thanks for the effort. The depth of the countryside and the stories of the locals need your perspective.
Superb riding BTW. Doing good distance in tough country. Your ability to sniff out the most worthwhile accommodation is second to none. All the best for the Indonesian leg.
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10 months ago

Ian WallisTo Joel KrewazThanks Joel, pleased that you appreciate my effort.
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10 months ago