March 11, 2023 to March 12, 2023
Wrapping up Morocco
Saturday, Mar 11
Although we were finished cycling, the tour had other activities planned for us today, including a guided tour of Marrakech and a farewell dinner tonight. I considered skipping the tour all together as I was not keen to go another round in the souks. But the initial stops looked interesting, and I figured I could bow out at anytime
The hotel is located in the Jewish quarter, which was once a walled area within the walls of the Medina. The buildings here are architecturally distinct, with characteristic street-facing balconies distinct from the riads where the rooms face away from the street, toward the inner courtyard.
The next stop was the Saadian Tombs, a cluster of mausoleums erected by the Saadian Sultan Ahmed Al Mansour Ed Dahbi in the late 16th century. The complex was later walled up by the Alaouite Sultan Moulay Ismail, who wanted his predecessor totally forgotten. And he succeeded - the tombs were forgotten until discovered by French aerial photography in 1917. Since then, the tombs have been restored, and though access to the interior of the mausoleums was restricted, I could still appreciate the elaborate tilework and ornate honeycomb frescoes.
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The second stop on the tour was the Bahai Palace, a place I’d visited a week before. I learned a bit more about the history of the palace, but frankly enjoyed my self-directed tour a bit more, when the crowds were a bit thinner and construction workers had not closed off the Grand Courtyard in preparation for a celebratory event.
Sunday, Mar 12
Sunday morning brought final farewells to the group and a return flight to Paris. Many were staying an extra day in Morocco, and I was a bit jealous of the small group planning a day hike into the High Atlas mountains. Maybe next time. Instead, my bag was balanced on the seat of a bike and I was escorted on foot through the Medina to a waiting taxi. We passed several road cyclists out enjoying another beautiful morning, and I was soon passing through the security entrance for the airport.
The flight to Paris and the ride to my apartment were uneventful, except that the taxi was a Tesla. I didn’t it realize at first as I’m not much into cars (I’m on my 7th Subaru), but I was fascinated by the big monitor showing animations of nearby cars/people/motorcycles and bikes. I watched with amazement as the icons flashed on and off the screen as we made our way through the streets of Paris. As remarkable as it was, it gave me some pause at the thought of a totally driverless car.
Final thoughts on my Moroccan cycling experience
Guided tours aren’t for everyone – you are cycling with strangers and must adhere to a route and schedule that is not of your own design. But there are some decided advantages. For me, the most important is that they allow me to cycle in parts of the world that are outside my comfort zone as a solo woman cyclist. Also, they often choose routes off the beaten track, ones you may not have found or may be reluctant to try without prior knowledge or support. That was certainly the case on this tour, where the small roads and off-road routes were the highlights of my week. In addition, the tour included many cultural experiences and local knowledge imparted by our Berber guides.
The group dynamics in a guided tour can be a major factor in your overall enjoyment, or not. Our Moroccan group was a great collection of supportive people who shared a love of cycling and adventure. Everyone had a “can do” attitude – punching up all the climbs and taking the option to ride in the van only when necessary - once when a tire flatted, and once on the 12 km descent from Tizi-n-Tazazert Pass by someone terrified of downhills. No prima donnas, just good folk.
I’ve been on a handful of group tours, but this was the first where eBikes were available – an option I never considered. However, my short eAssist on day 3 changed my perspective and I probably would rent an eBikes if I were to go on another group tour with challenging, off road terrain. EBikes make difficult tours more accessible to a wider range of cyclists, and in a group setting allow everyone to ride at a somewhat similar pace. I’m not yet ready to go electric on my solo tours, but can definitely see an eBike in my future.
Overall, the tour was a fantastic way for me to experience Morocco, a beautiful country with wonderful, warm people and a fascinating history and culture. Next up is a month solo touring in Andalusia – no more pampering!
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