In Port Angeles: Hurricane Ridge

August 6, 2019

Video sound track: Walking on Sunshine, by Katrina

Well, it spoils the suspense a bit to lead with the video; but I misplaced it at the top of the page and there’s no way to remove it or add space above it.

So, I can’t lead with any suspenseful narrative about how challenging the climb was and any doubts we might have had about making it to the top. You already know better - veni, ascendi, vinci. So I’ll just say that it was an awesome climb, on the best day imaginable. Pretty simple story - climb 5,200’ over 17 miles, slowly; eat lunch at the top; walk around and take in the fabulous views; descend 5,200’, rapidly. Wow!

The climb is almost a pure ascent. There is one slight dip of about ten feet, but other than that it is steadily up for 17 miles at a fairly uniform grade. The pavement surface is excellent the entire way. I keep a fairly steady pace for the first 4,000’ of the climb, averaging a bit over 7 mph; but then I start feeling a bit short of breath (from the heat, the elevation, the exertion, who knows?) and slow down for the last few miles, arriving perhaps 20 minutes after Rachael does. Not bad, and gratifying to see that we can still do climbs like this one - it’s been a while.

At the park entrance, obviously. We’ve still got our jackets on because it’s overcast and cool. It will burn off in another hour, and the final miles will be sunny, shadeless, and warm.

Image not found :( — Most of the early miles look like this - climbing steadily at about 7%, surrounded by trees. Except for a few gaps in the trees we won’t get any significant views until about fifteen miles in when we round the ridge to its south side.

Nearing the east end of the ridge, we start getting a few breaks in the trees.

The first of a series of three short tunnels, all about as long as this one. Unlit, but no real concern.

On the north side of the ridge now. The last five miles all look like this, with cliffs on the right and the Olympics becoming steadily more exposed as we gain elevation.

Looking south up the course of the Elwha River.

Same spot, different poser. We each liked the other’s photo better, so included them both.

A well placed peak identifier snag. The left finger points to Mount Olympus, and the right to Mount Carrie.

The course of the Lillian River, which empties into the Elwha somewhere in the canyon down there.

A deeper look at the course of the Elwha.

The descent is great fun, especially the last ten miles after the road rounds back to the north side of the ridge and straightens itself out. The smooth surface and gradual grade let’s you relax and just coast. The relatively few cars are respectful, approaching slowly since we aren’t going than much slower than them anyway and waiting patiently until we come to a paved pullout or long clear stretch. With a bit of a headwind slowing us down, we hardly need to touch the brakes at all.

Long descents like this are such an experience., and really distort your sense of time and distance. It feels like you’ve been flying down the mountain for ever, but looking at the GPS you see you’re still only a third of the way down.

Here are a few photos I couldn’t help stopping for on the race to the bottom; but the video gives a better sense of it. As of course you know already.

And so it begins. Almost 20 miles of pure descent. Rachael wore her coat at first, assuming she’d get chilled, but soon shed it. It’s warm, it’s perfect.

We return to the room by about 3 and indulge ourselves in our latest tradition - a mid-afternoon nap - and get up just in time for another wonderful meal at Kokopelli. If we come back to Port Angeles, we’ll eat there again, I’m sure.

And we will come back some day, as part of a loop from Victoria to here to Port Townsend again. It’s just a matter of time. And we’ll stay in town here. I walked around a bit after dinner again tonight, and found more to attract me here than before. It’s no Port Townsend, but nice enough - and there’s great riding in three directions.

On the waterfront, Port Angeles. Like yesterday, it’s cool and windy here.

The fog has really settled in over the last few hours. When we were eating dinner we could see the structures on Ediz Hook, the spit that shelters Port Angeles Harbor. It can’t be more than half a mile beyond this ship, but now it’s completely socked in.

Heart

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Ride stats today: 40 miles, 5,200’; for the tour: 806 miles, 40,500’

Today's ride: 40 miles (64 km)
Total: 794 miles (1,278 km)

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Keith ClassenCongratulations on your climb. Looks like you had a perfect day for it. A well deserved celebratory dinner!!!
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4 years ago

David MathersWell done you two! We wimped out last weekend for the car free ride and now we see what we missed. Glad you are making the most of the area. Hope you waived at Victoria when you were at the summit looking North. Enjoying the journal, as always!
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4 years ago

Jen RahnThe video does clearly show how awesome the descent is .. wow!

Here's to the afternoon nap! Especially after such an admirable climb .. well done, you 2!!
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4 years ago