Port Angeles - Northwest Passages: Victoria to Portland - CycleBlaze

August 12, 2019

Port Angeles

We have a very short ride ahead of us today - it’s only 18 miles from Sequim to Port Townsend.  Too short, especially since we just had a rest day.  I stare at the map for ideas to lengthen the ride, and an obvious candidate jumps off the map: the climb up Deer Park Road to the national park Boundary.  Generally following the course of Morse Creek, it climbs pretty steadily for nine miles, topping out near 2,000’.  A great warmup climb to test our readiness for tackling Hurricane Ridge tomorrow.

We could continue further - after turning to gravel, Deer Park Road continues another 9 miles into the park and climbs another 2,000’.  I start to propose this, but Rachael immediately shouts B!; so that’s off the table.

First though, we have to get to Deer Park Road.  It’s an easy, very pleasant thirteen ride on the Olympic Discovery Trail, carrying us nearly to the outskirts of Port Angeles.  This segment of the ODT is really great - paved the whole way, nearly level, and nearly all on a separated non-motorized path.  

On the Olympic Discovery Trail, west of Sequim.
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Crossing the Dungeness River on the Olympic Discovery Trail.
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Crossing the Dungeness River.
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Looking up the Dungeness River toward the Olympics.
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On the long, rebuilt trestle bridge over the Dungeness River.
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On the Olympic Discovery Trail
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I think we’re looking here toward Hurricane Ridge. There’s still a bit of snow up there, but I’ll bet it’s really spectacular earlier in the year.
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Pay attention to the sign here. It’s steep, with a hairpin halfway down.
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At the bottom: this beautiful bridge crossing Bagley Creek, followed by a stiff climb back out.
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The climb up Deer Park Road is a good climb, if just a bit short on drama.  There’s no shoulder, but no real traffic either.  The surface is a fairly smooth chip seal that roughens a bit toward the end.  We keep a steady pace, stopping once or twice for water breaks, and don’t struggle at all with the climb.  We haven’t tackled a real climb in weeks, so it’s a bit of a confidence builder in preparation for the much tougher climb ahead.

The ride back goes fast, especially the final five miles after the road straightened out and the grade lessens to about 4% - you can just glide without applying the brakes at all.  Partway down we pass a parked car and three men testing out their rifles, taking what appears to be target practice as they fire round after round into the woods, the gunshots echoing across the hills.  They smile in my direction as I coast by, but with the current news in mind it’s just a bit disconcerting.

Climbing Deer Park Road toward the Olympic National Park boundary.
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On Deer Park Road
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The final mile of the climb. The park boundary is at about the base of the nearest ridge.
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There’s no sign to indicate that we’ve entered the park.
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Down again - nine miles of free fall ahead.
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Back on the ODT again, we have another five miles to town.  Great riding continues all the way t9 downtown Port Angeles, with the last three miles right on the waterfront.  The big shock though is the temperature.  It’s cold!  We’re biking into a fifteen mph headwind, mostly in the shade, and it’s only about 65F.  We’re both pretty frigid when we finally make town, and head immediately to a cafe to get out of the wind and pack in some calories.  Unfortunately, it’s not much warmer inside, as we’re sitting directly under the ceiling fan in a constant cool breeze.

On the ODT, crossing Morse Creek just east of Port Angeles.
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Still on the ODT, with Port Angeles in our sights. Sunny, but cold.
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A mix of Glaucous Winged and Heerman’s Gulls, bracing against the wind.
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On the ODT. It’s really a fine ride, all the way from Sequim to Port Angeles.
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To be honest, we don’t find Port Angeles to be the most interesting place to hang out for two nights.  There’s not much of a downtown, little in the way of a public waterfront access, and nothing remotely like Port Townsend’s fabulous collection of historic buildings.  It’s a good occasion to take an afternoon nap and relax until dinner time.  The big surprise though is that our chosen restaurant, at Kokopelli’s Grill, gives us the best meal of the tour.  We book ourselves for a second meal here tomorrow night, feeling like we’ll have earned it by the time the dinner hour rolls around again.

The Clallum County Courthouse
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The Carnegie Library is a century building, built in 1918.
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Best meal of the tour: fresh local coho, with local chantarelles and a citrus glaze buerre blanc; with a mascarpone and prosciutto risotto cake and green beans.
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Ride stats today: 37 miles, 2,400’; for the tour: 766 miles, 35,300’

Today's ride: 37 miles (60 km)
Total: 754 miles (1,213 km)

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