Living the gite life

March 21, 2022 to March 30, 2022

We left the city life of Bologna for the rural life of the Cher in France, on Monday March 21. It‘s time to get back to work while we are still in the travel mode. Something about deadlines and paychecks that still motivates us.

Decades ago we spent a couple weeks cycling the Loire Valley and that seemed like a good destination to wait out the rising covid spike, give refugees more room options, and get our work done. After 5 minutes on the web we found an inexpensive place for three weeks in the exact location hoped for — near but not in Villandry.

The place, or gite, is on the edge of the village of Savonnières on the Cher River. It has good wifi, functional kitchen, and is set within a 1700s farm space. Our building is a recently done-up worker cottage from 1910. Low ceilings, beams to watch for, and a split bathroom (toilet on ground floor, shower and sink on upper floor). Steep enough spiral staircase that we treat it as a ladder. Super efficient heaters along with LPG stove top. Limoges china for 12 (including soup tureen) and Ikea bowls and cups. Truly a place of contrasts.

Stepping outside, we enter a private orchard and garden that is entirely in bloom when we arrive. Lizards the length of your hand sun on the stone wall that divides the terraces between orchard and garden. Our host has put a picnic table and chairs for us to move around as we wish. There is no excuse to not get work done.

Work we do but also we are right near bike paths and calm roads so finally we are biking daily again. Sometimes to get supplies (those baguettes don‘t just show up on their own), to go to the gardens at Villandry, or to just meander around and find new places. It‘s all without keeping track of distance, time or even a map. Things are easy enough to work out or backtrack as needed.

The walk to Villandry is 6 km and is one of those sweet riverside walks that goes between small holdings, brief forests, and paddocks. Plenty birdlife to spot too. It‘s an easy destination to use for clearing the mind through physical activity.

Home sweet home for 23 days. Windows on east and south plus skylights make it surprisingly light inside.

Wall separating terraces. South wall heating up in March — glorious!

Local walk coming up. Several long-distance walking routes nearby that we stumble on. Fascinating to see the development of them. Like the bike routes they are simply signed and give you enough information to not consult a device.

The usual pair at rest. We see lots of bikes but no folding ones. Odd because Paris is full of them.

Along the Cher route, historical boats that are being made again locally. Savonnières is not one of the must-see destinations and they are working hard to be on the map. Lots of small community activities bringing people out again.

Sandstorm from early March left every car covered in thick dust. The dust is from the Sahara and leaves orange snow and brilliant sunsets in its wake.

So far no covid, no sense of displacing others in need, and plenty of activity. The locals are getting to know us — one shopkeeper recalled our purchase from two days before and wondered at the need for more soy milk. The Villandry garden clerk remembers me easily (as in, „oh you again“). The local pizza food truck comes through in three days and we are already planning what to order. We bring in the recycling bins from the gate after a walk. Is this where we live now?

Today's ride: 100 km (62 miles)
Total: 250 km (155 miles)

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Rachael AndersonLooks like a wonderful spot and it’s great you can get some bicycling an walking in!
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2 years ago

Keith AdamsWe visited Villandry in 2003, on our first tandem tour in France. Our tour organizer was a Brit with an absolutely arid sense of humor. Watching the groundskeepers at work around the chateau he remarked "You'd never have to wonder about what to do at work, would you? 'Today, I believe I shall rake some gravel.' "

Your present circumstances certainly sound congenial and relaxing!
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2 years ago

Suzanne GibsonSound like you found a perfect place for work and play!
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2 years ago

Martha FrommeltI love the imagining you climing the ladder stairs after the day of baguettes. That pic of your bikes together is a sweet capture of your togetherness. Enjoy it all.
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2 years ago