Collioure to Torreilles

September 30, 2023

Easy Rider

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Last night when we were discussing where to go today the obvious spot was Perpignan, but neither of us was particularly in the mood for a city. Even a small city. And that is how we find ourselves in Torreilles, in a most amazing 17th century property. A 17th century property with a pool, air conditioning and atmosphere. I am blogging from our huge terrace while Keith chills in the pool.

We started the day enjoying our excellent breakfast at the Hotel Madeloc, outside on the terrace. It was already very warm, which, for the record, I love. Then a leisurely pack up as we knew we had a short, flat day. We were second guessing ourselves a bit at that point…perhaps we should have planned to go further today for a short day into Narbonne, but it was too late for that.

First we went down into town, the wrong way on a one way street, with the Fenwick’s lecture from the local police about such flagrant disregard for the law fresh on our minds.

Imagine how we laughed as we sailed past the local constabulary. Fortunately they weren’t looking out the window.

Then it was an absolute killer hill out of town. Not long, thank goodness, but long enough when you aren’t warmed up and steep! There was a group of road cyclists headed up as well, and who says I am competitive? Pride wasn’t going to let me stop for a break. I ground my way up that hill and we both earned many bravos from the roadies at the top. Then it was back down to sea level, one more climb (vines on the left, Med on the right, swoon) and the flat part of the day began.

I am delighted to have made it. I am sure my heart rate was north of that recommended for someone my age.

We followed Eurovelo 8 most of the day, and it was well marked and well maintained. It was almost all paved and in excellent condition. We stopped in Saint Cyprien for lunch and I was reminiscing of the family dog, a poodle we named Cyprien. He was a character and my mind wandered thinking about him. The stories I could tell!

Our lunch spot. We have to remember we are in France. Hit the bakery before noon!

Sorry about the thumb print. I will fix it later. Right now I am having enough trouble with both data and wifi in a 17th century building I am just happy the picture downloaded.

After Saint Cyprien we felt we had a wee bit of good luck. Eurovelo 8 in that part will be closed tomorrow for a run in support of breast cancer research. The route was unbelievably well marked. Pink ribbons in the trees, pink arrows painted on the bike path and pink tape making sure no one made a wrong turn. Good to see.

Then we were in Torrielles. This accommodation is unbelievable. We don’t want to leave the property. It is what you come to Europe to experience. We are so happy with our decision to stay here just to enjoy this ancient spot. It is absolutely amazing. Our room is seriously huge and atmospheric and oh my.

We were going to go out for dinner tonight at a spot highly recommended by our host, but guess what? Closed from September 30 to October 10. There were other places, but we weren’t disappointed. It made the decision to have charcuterie and cheese on our amazing terrace easy. First though, I had to get Keith out of the pool!

Did I mention the turtles? There are five. So far we have found two. We are delighted to be here. Feeling very fortunate tonight.

I will clean up this post tomorrow. For the record, despite the thick and ancient stone walls and narrow alleys messing with both wifi and data, La Vieille Demeure is fabulous. Stay here if you find yourself in the neighbourhood.

Today's ride: 40 km (25 miles)
Total: 420 km (261 miles)

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Rachael AndersonWhat a fabulous place to stay!
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7 months ago

Kathleen ClassenIt was a really great experience. There was also a full kitchen for guests if they wanted to use it and a long stay apartment.
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7 months ago