October 1, 2023
Torreilles to Narbonne
Bike Touring at its Best
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Breakfast in our beautiful chateau was delicious. Good coffee, croissants, marmalade from the orange tree in the courtyard, yogurt. In other words, everything we needed. We said goodbye to our wonderful hosts (and the turtles) and were on our way.
It was a great day. There were so many highlights it is going to be hard to remember them all. First up for me was the fact that there were so many people out enjoying the bike path. Not just cyclists, also walkers, runners, roller blades. So many people out enjoying a beautiful Sunday. There were five different pelotons of men who had thrown on a little spandex and were feeling fabulous as they rolled by. And this was just on the bike path between Torrielles and the sea.
We followed Eurovelo 8 for much of the day and for the most part it was excellent. After we arrived at the seaside bike path it was a glorious ride along the beach, and then boom, a market. The CN was pedaling hard concerned I would want to look around (of course I did) when suddenly he stopped to look at beautiful electric bikes. Thus began one of today’s most delightful encounters with two men from Holland. It was a great visit with lots of laughs. We are meeting there again, this time next year the four of us decided.
Next up was shipping container mural land. What a creative use of old shipping containers. They were in in Le Barcares.
The riding today was just phenomenal. So many great views and unexpected surprises. We found ourselves routed into a huge traffic jam of people trying to find a parking space to eat fresh seafood at some kind of a foodie destination. All seafood, all the time.
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Then more amazing riding on Eurovelo 8 on a variety of surfaces and with a variety of views.
We stopped for a picnic lunch in a square in Leucate. We met Eric and Jean-Pierre who are on their way home after a week in Cadaques. We had a great chat about the pleasures of touring. Then the route took us through a fascinating section of ancient rock walls. I would really like to know the background of this and will try to do a little research tonight. It was beautiful.
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Once down at sea level again we found ourselves riding through, well, I don’t know what to call it. Hard sand and scrub plants. It was remarkable. A very smooth surface for the most part, a bit sandy here and there, but the sand was easy to avoid.
But unfortunately it spat us out next to the railway tracks and the roughest bit of riding we have had this trip. The CN kept teasing me that maybe it was going to be a dead end and we would have to ride back. Fortunately it was not, and we emerged onto a paved lane with virtually no traffic.
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We were stopped to chat with a solo bike tourer from Berlin when who should rock up behind us but Eric and Jean-Pierre. One of the best parts of the day was riding with them in a little mini bike tourer peleton along the canal towards Narbonne.
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Then the last few km into Narbonne. The CN led us directly to our sweet little boutique hotel. We have explored the town for a few hours, had a delicious dinner and are tempted to stay put tomorrow it is so lovely here. We will see.
And so to bed. One other news flash, tonight a crown on a back molar fell off. I don’t think it is going to be a problem, other than not losing the darn thing before we get home. I mention it because I am blaming that rough gravel today. I think it shook the crown loose!
Today's ride: 65 km (40 miles)
Total: 485 km (301 miles)
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