Day 8: Porto to Ovar

March 9, 2023

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We got Osmand+ to suggest a route from the hostel down to the river, and the start of EV 1 for us. We usually don't use Osmand for route planning, but for just a couple of km, what could go wrong? It turned out that Osmand almost unerringly chose one way streets opposing our direction of travel. This landed us walking the bikes on the sidewalks. Osmand did not in fact slow us down with this failing. As it happened, the steep and slippery streets had us walking the bikes anyway. But it did take an hour to reach the river. When we walk up these same streets in a couple of months we will have to allocate even a bit more time, for the climb.

The streets down here are becoming a little familiar.

At the bagel shop in Montreal I mentioned parking in the alley because there was no other option. Here we have the same situation, except the car is blocking an actual street. We got around it, but it was a bit of a struggle.

The following three shots, from the other side of the river, show the beauty and crowded nature of Porto. The shots are not so bright because to say the least, the day was not so bright, and for these shots it was lightly raining.

We believe these river boats are used now for cruises. They are a big part of the river history, and we would soon come to a shipyard where they are made and repaired.

Ah yes, here we are at the shipyard, with a few explanations about the river boats.

We were quickly drawing near to the ocean, and saw many birds, like this cormorant.

On the south side of the river, opposite Porto town, the hills are not so extreme or so close to the river. That gave room for more restaurants by the shore, and streets that ran inland at right angles to the river.

This street is running from the river to inland.

As if the views across to Porto were not enough, as this point began the features that made this day's ride one of the best and most memorable we have done. The first thing was the bike path, show below. I have become skeptical of nice looking bike paths, because they usually soon disappear. But this stayed with us for the entire day!at

Here we see part of the river estuary, an area that is incorporated into parks and protected areas. Parks and protected area also stuck with us for the whole day.

The next terrific element for this ride was the ocean - the open Atlantic - right here. Paddle out from this beach and the next stop is something like New York City, 5.000 km away. The trail basically kept to the coast, all the way today.

I was too impatient to wait for the highest wave, but the surf is quite high here!

A trailside poster tells me that I am here. Thanks, good to know!

When we drove in from the airport in Porto, the northern outskirts of the town reminded us of Victoria BC. But the town itself is unique, and does not resemble Victoria at all. Undaunted, here I am with another comparison. The coast south of Porto strongly resembles middle California, like around San Franscisco. We see this in the Ice plants, Bird of Paradise, and Pine and Eucalyptus forest, as well as occasional palms. Monkey Puzzle, and orange tree.

This is also seen a lot by the sea in California.

These Calla Lillies (?) were naturalised everywhere.

Although the bike path does run beside protected dunes and parks, it also spends a long time passing many condo developments. The house below is not at all typical, but it was still interesting enough to photograph, gi ven its design and location. In housing that was not concrete condos, tile faced small houses were still an item. Here is one example:

Before leaving on the trip, I received a stern warning from Joni not to "break" Mom. And I would like to say that I am completely innocent - had her on a protected bike path, and all. The culprit was a length of wood partly embedded in the protected path. This found a way to skitter Dodie's wheel sideways, and to throw her down into that concrete wall.

Dodie landed with again, the bike on top. I ditched my own and went to lift up the various pieces. Almost instantly a runner, who can be seen in the picture now departing, came to offer assistance. The scuff marks ahead of my bike show where Dodie went down.

Dodie returns to survey the scene of the crime, and to reclaim her thermos and GPS, which were thrown as well.

After the fall, Dodie immediately diagnosed herself with a possible broken rib. It's hard to tell without x-ray, but as of evening it hurt a lot. As of now, we have given her some pain killer and put her to bed. In the morning it could be better, but probably worse - more painful, even if not cracked. Needless to say, this minor cracking (maybe) of a rib did not stop the intrepid Dodie from completing the rest of the ride.

That ride continued to impress, as it passed by beach and dunes, and eventually entered a bird sanctuary comprising a medium sized inlet of the sea into a lagoon. It then continued through pine covered dunes, and environment that boasted many types of wildlife. For much of this, the path took to a boardwalk format. In places the boards were loose or rotten, but none of that seemed to affect Dodie. She specializes in succumbing to obstructions 1/4 inch or smaller!

It's hard to see how boats could be launched without a harbour, but they seem to do it. This is the typical style.

Boardwalk, and concrete shapes for when the surf is higher.

Signs announce the Paramos Lagoon and later, the Ovar Dunes forest trail. We managed to not see any of the creatures mentioned!

It took a while to arrive in Ovar. We had been going slow before the fall, and now went a bit slower. Meanwhile the owner of our destination B&B was getting a bit frantic, sine he does not live at the building where we would stay, and he wanted to be able to meet us there, rather than the fallback of leaving the key nearby to be picked up. We could see one reason for this when we did reach the place, met Bruno, and got the tour.

The B&B, "Vintage Balcony Guest House", was a building that Bruno and his partner had bought just two years earlier, in poor condition. But they had completely and immaculately restored it, making one of the most beautiful places we have stayed in. We talked with Bruno for quite a while about paint colours and quality, and house renovation in general. Having lived in two heritage properties in the past, we could really appreciate what he had done. Of course, we will take care not to mar any single part of it. Anything like that would be just heartbreaking. How can Bruno keep renting it out to unknown strangers (not us!)?

We are eager to see wat tomorrow will bring on this wonderful trail. Portugal is looking really good!

Today's ride: 53 km (33 miles)
Total: 63 km (39 miles)

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Jacquie GaudetI hope Dodie is okay and able to enjoy the next few days. It looks spectacular!
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1 year ago

Tricia GrahamThe ride the entire way from Porto th Lisbon is wonderful though not always on bike tracks like you rode today. I am going to relive our trip by reading it day by day as you ride along
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1 year ago

Steve Miller/GrampiesTo Tricia GrahamGlad to have you with us, as always.
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1 year ago

Patrick O'HaraYour a trooper Dodie! Enjoying reading your adventures.
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1 year ago

Bill ShaneyfeltHaving endured broken ribs twice, I really feel for Dodie! Especially when lifting or pulling on that side.

Heal well, and quickly!
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1 year ago

Steve Miller/GrampiesTo Jacquie GaudetDodie is pretty tough and will power through. It is really spectacular scenery here and we are sure to have a great time.
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1 year ago

Steve Miller/GrampiesTo Patrick O'HaraThanks Patrick.
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1 year ago

Steve Miller/GrampiesTo Bill ShaneyfeltStill not sure it is broken or cracked and not "just" badly bruised, but it sure is painful. Still, Dodie is tough and sure to power on through.
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1 year ago

Kelly IniguezHere's hoping for an uneventful rest of the trip, one spill is too many! No coughing or laughing for Dodie today! Get well soon.
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1 year ago

Steve Miller/GrampiesTo Kelly IniguezThanks Kelly, but how to keep Dodie from laughing.........
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1 year ago

Suzanne GibsonGo, Dodie! Sure hope it stops hurting so you can enjoy every minute! Even in sketchy weather, looks just beautiful! Your enthusiasm is contagious, must put Portugal high on the list.
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1 year ago

Brent IrvineI hope Dodie's pain is bruising and nothing worse. At least you are at the VBG which is so incredibly charming - maybe you'll have to stay there for a few weeks to recuperate! Bruno let me pick one of the ranges in the back yard. Typical sweet and juicy Portuguese orange.
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1 year ago

Steve Miller/GrampiesTo Brent IrvineWe ate two, that Bruno had already picked and put in the kitchen. So cool that you were there too!

Dodie thinks rib is only slightly cracked. She is cycling along ok!
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1 year ago

Steve Miller/GrampiesTo Suzanne GibsonWe are finding Portugal so far to be a real delight. Bike paths everywhere, great scenery, great people,....we love it.
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1 year ago